So I'm working on my first car and I got a new battery and new terminals. The terminals are generic so I had to cut the wires to connect them to the terminals. Because the had the factory clamps. I ended up cutting the positive green wire to short that connects to the fuse box to the battery. I'm I able to repair it so it could reach to the positive terminal using these tools?
I've never done this but knew every step and what it felt like to do it. Wtf is going on. Great video and now I'm just wondering if I somehow did this once and just don't remember
I have a Chevy 2005 equinox and I need to repin the harness connector that's under dashboard driver's side. The pins in my harness corroded, which means I would have to replace the whole pin. Could anyone point me to a good website that can provide such pins? Any forums or websites that can provide info? I need help identifying what kind of metal pieces go at the tip so i can order them!! Any info would be much appreciated.
Hi, I need to replace my seat belt retractor plug with a new old which might require soldering / splicing. The wire might have 2 small copper wires in it but not 100% sure. How can I safely & effectively do it the RIGHT way since it is critical safety device that connects to airbag system? Of course I can always look for experts or expensively replace the whole floor harness but that will be the last resort.
I used to solder in this way when doing repair on my car some years ago. I recently discovered that the solder had cracked (wires still connected) after around ~ 3 years of use in engine compartment. I did though isolate the connection waterproof. Vibrations and temperature changes (especially in my area) had weakened the solder and it could probably have made a bad connection after some time. I replaced all repaired connection with butt connectors that had heat shrink tubing after advice from mechanics. In general i would recommend if you do repair in a place where you the wires are absorbing vibrations or temperature changes such as when the engine heats up/cools down after use, use butt connectors. If you want long term solid connection.
This is a commercial for your proprietary torch kit. I have an electric iron that I used in Iraq, much better. Also I always tin any wires prior to connecting. The dissimilar metals are not proper. Thank you for making this short.
takes 30 seconds, but they heat up well, more thane enough to solder, but there are plenty of gas solder torches, they are good, but not as good as electrical, id even choose a 12v one over gas, but they have their place if you cant get power there
Now you stated to place two pieces of shrink tubing onto the repair before the soldering, but I didn't see what you did with the second piece? is it a back up in case of failure, you know....plan B?
Avoid letting the solder wick down beyond the twisted joint, in fact, you should have split each the wires into pairs of strands, then overlap twist them into each other. THen apply just enough solder that wicks no further than the last couple twists. THe twists acts as a strain relief, Dang i need to do a video showing people this.
Where do you buy automotive wire like that? Can it be any wire as long as it's the same gauge? Trying to avoid buying an entire harness just for parts.
Hi, Did you get yours fix ok? I need to replace my seat belt retractor plug with a new old which might require soldering / splicing. The wire might have 2 small copper wires in it but not 100% sure. How can I safely & effectively do it the RIGHT way since it is critical safety device that connects to airbag system? Of course I can always look for experts or expensively replace the whole floor harness but that will be the last resort.
Im not sure about that twisting them together method. even do it makes the job easier to do. solder cannot flow to the inner wires.thats what i was thought when going to school
Did anybody notice that the he soldered the purple wire to the spare blue wire... instead of back to the other purple wire? Also, why two pieces of heat shrink?
+mindmasterajae he was replacing a section of a wire, not just joining up two ends, so he showed how to correctly join one side, so you can follow the same steps for the other.
I would never solder the wiring of a vehicle wiring harness unless that connection will not vibrate, unless of course one wants to troubleshoot broken solder connections at a later date.
@@mmmmmlemons ... at what partin the video? Ask one of the professionals in the comments. I only dealt with Air Force classification wiring on aircraft per a TO so I wouldn't know. 🤓
wires should be crimped not soldered. soldering them make wires brittle. pro wiring harness have no solder at all. factories used to solder and have failure all the time.
sure IF you have the real ratchet crimper (not that pressed steel cheapo) and quality connectors, id agree, but for most people soldering and shrink tubing can be decent so long as you dont wick the solder up the wire, and use extra shrink tube to protect it from movement fatigue
Why solder ? why not use an uninsulated or a butt connector on both sides ? I'm not an expert so am not trying to be a smart ass here i just want to know why go all this trouble when there is an easier method, I did a western union splice and wrap them with a wire tape on my car couple of years ago and now the tape is sliding off from heat and i want to use a better method in my car
what ever your chosen grade / method of repair whether you use twist and then insulation tape (temporary repair at best) crimp connectors or the method shown (the best imho for connectivity and protection against water) all methods should be insulated to prevent any possible electrical shorts. If a job is worth doing do it properly within your capability or pay a professional. btw .... you can use insulated inline crimp connectors that can then be heated to shrink and seal with glue to give the same iP rating if used absolutely correctly but they can be more bulky especially if more than one is used within the same area of a loom repair, extension or upgrade. Many ways .... but some are better than others depending on the variations of application :-)
+Gary Thorley Paying unfaithful professionals what screwed up my Chevy shorts like my ride is possessed just so i can take my car back to them, I will be ordering some Soldering tools and practice till i get it right, And what's with the heat shrink glue ? is heat shrinking not enough ? i got to look that one up, anyways bubba thank you for the reply
+SalemMillion i too have experienced poor work from so called professionals so i now do my own work if i have time but never the less there are a lot of great pros out there too .... you just gotta pick carefully if you cant do the work yourself. The glue inside creates a greater seal for no water ingress for 4x4s that go wading through deeper water than standard vehicles or stock 4x4s ;-)
yep tape was your mistake, he used shink tube, second he soldered it not just the splice. sure crimp can be great, BUT only if you have the real ratchet crimper, not the cheapo one, soldering and shrink tube is cheap and easy and gives you other options
Thats a pretty bad video when it comes to details. First, you want to mach colour coding of wire. Last but not least, you should never mach aluminium and copper wire. Ever heard of galvanic corrosion?
Well it's not the way it should be done. Single wires in the cable should be combined with second cable and then twist and solder. In your case it will be much fatter than regular wire.
Corrosion does affect copper. I deal with it every week. Living in the UK brings its challenges when exposed to salt. It turns the copper wire into green powder. So any chaffing and exposed copper is an issue here.
That solder technique was mediocre, you don’t need that much solder, and heck, why do you strip that much of insulation? I usually only strip just enough that you can twist two wires together without having too much exposed wire.
Doing dabs with this same shitty china made torch, it sucks. For the love of your car, and your fingertips, buy a real electric iron. Please watch a different video.