I just installed the clips, and they work great. If you remove the two screws on the end of the frame rails you can pop the cross-member off with the rear bumper. This makes it a breeze to install the rear clip.
Just ordered these a few minutes ago. Looking forward to making the body easier to remove and especially put back on. Thanks a lot for making and selling these.
I already have two Scx10.3s that are fitted with your brilliant clipless system. I knew when I ordered my CJ7 I'd be ordering as soon as you made them available. Good show; Mr Fine.
You rock dude! I equipment my scx6 honcho and my scx10 bronco. They work so nice. I will confess though,the rear latch on the bronco is really hard to get with your sway bar mount installed too. At least with my fat fingers lol keep up the great work!!
Just installed this fantastic clip system, thank you so much for an awesome design and execution! I put a small dab of Vaseline into the nut sockets of the rear body piece to hold the nuts in place during installation. Everyone knows Vaseline makes everything work better! 😁
Show question with his laser body mount for the CJ7 if you go to change the back and front bumper what back and front bumper will work with those laser jet body mount
The POIZD RC front bumper works with this system. In the rear, as long as you leave the cross support and have a rear bumper that slots into the stock bumper location you should be good. If you have a particular one in mind I can check.
@@kevin_fine INJORA RC Front Bumper and Rear Bumper for 1:10 RC Crawler Axial SCX10 III AXI03007 (Black) I'm thinking of getting those front and back bumpers from Amazon
Hey feel free to shoot me a message on my website contact form, or through Etsy. I would be happy to help take a look and see what might be the issue! As shown in the video you do have to pull it down with your hands, but not sure if that’s the issue you are having or if it is something different. Sending me photos will definitely help with troubleshooting.
Sorry I do not sell the files. Since I perform Finite Element Analysis (FEA) on all my designs that means I’m designing for the specific material I’m printing in (this case Formlabs Tough 2000). That means that printing in any of your typical FDM materials would almost certainly result in a bad experience and a non-functioning part. The Tough 2000 resin is stronger than some injection molded materials and it holds up great.
Formlabs Tough 2000 is stronger than PLA and significantly less brittle. This is engineering grade resin and not the cheap stuff that you might be used to experiencing in the past. You can find all the data sheets for this resin on Formlabs website if you’re curious to learn more about it.
@@kevin_fine I am familiar, definitely. From my experience the PLA pro and + I use is quite strong without the brittle factor of resin, hence why I was wanting files so I can run a PLA or Nylon one instead. If you don't mind I'll take the video into solid works and just put the calipers. Great idea.
@@Cranklotus yea feel free to experiment no issues with that. Just don’t appreciate people who knock off the design to sell cheap or give away, but you’re not going to do that so I truly appreciate it. Wish you best of luck with your experiments. I’ve had great luck with this resin and I’ll honestly be shocked if anybody breaks this design (it’d have to be one heck of a crash to break it).
@@Webb4RC I'm sorry I don't own that body and chassis so other than suggesting the stock body posts and drilling I don't know what else is out there for that truck.
Do you have, or will you have a similar system for the Redcat 64 Impala Lowrider? The stock system is a pain in the butt, because you have to turn the whole car upside down and place it on this big foam cushion with holes for the antennas to get to the body pins on the underside of the car, but if you don't place it perfectly on the foam, the antennas break, so I switched to a magnetic mounting system, but the double-sided tape that secures the magnets to the chassis wears out. A system like this would be great for the impala.
I have not looked into that truck at this time, but I can check it out and see if there is enough demand for a design to be made. No promises but will check it out!
The main reason I don't recommend picking it up by the cage is you're putting all the stress through the clipless parts. I design them so they can take it, but over time (many months of use) the parts will stretch and become looser. That's why I made a video on how to reset them with a heat gun. You can pick it up by the cage, but I don't recommend you walk around solely carrying it by the cage. Pick it up by the cage, but then hold it by the chassis once its in the air for example. Hopefully that helps make sense! Let me know if you have further questions always happy to help!
