Bachmann 4-4-0: An American Classic 

Thanks - I've seen that video! It was actually part of what inspired me to finally get one of these. I'll probably be revisiting it soon to get some pointers on swapping out the cowcatcher.

There are link and pin sets that fit into those kadee pockets. Makes for a very good look on the old models...especially if you use the string of cars only on this locomotive...or if you do the era exclusively.

I have thought of that, and I do plan to experiment with it at some point. It wouldn't hold much water, but I think I could just barely fit the disc in the top of a large HO balloon stack. I'll be sure post a video if I get it to work!

Interesting. It does make sense that Bachmann would just go straight to the Baldwin catalog. I believe they did the same thing for the Spectrum 2-8-0 - a lot of people think it's an Illinois Central 900 class, and it sort of is, but only because the IC ordered those straight out of the catalog.

I think that is also the case with the Rivarossi/AHM/IHC 4-4-0's as well as the Atlas N scale ones...

@@jayo1212 Yep - in fact, I believe all of those are based on the same Baldwin prototype as the Bachmann model. Those 1870s Baldwins, and the Inyo in particular, seem to be the go-to blueprint for a generic "Wild West" 4-4-0 in the model railroad industry. To be fair, it's a good choice for that, as it's generic enough to plausibly stand in for most American locos of that era.

@@michaelramsey81 when I think about it, the Bachmann 4-4-0 was essentially based on the Genoa portraying the Jupiter, as it had for the 1969 Golden Spike Centennial. The livery of the original model lines up quite well with the Genoa's 1969-78 appearance...

@@jayo1212 I think that's very likely. The Jupiter livery on the Bachmann has since been revised to better represent what we know about the Jupiter's original paint scheme, but the old red version was a near-perfect match for the 1969 version.

Good eye! They've been repainted a couple more times since then, but they are indeed the same coaches.

I've had a lot of those 0-6-0s over the years too - I think I've lost count at this point. I'm looking forward to trying the new sound-equipped version, if they ever actually get around to shipping them.

I really want to get one of the Rivarossi ones and compare it. I believe they're based on the same prototype.

I saw that! I'm hyped for it as well. Time to finish my N scale layout so I have somewhere to run it!

@@michaelramsey81 ps sorry about the way my comment turned out it this darn spell check

Thanks! The music is licensed from Epidemic Sound, a paid subscription service that provides royalty-free music and sound effects for RU-vid videos.

Oh yeah, I forgot about that! I do plan to make a video on it at some point, but I actually haven't used that technique in a long time.

I don't know exactly how many cars they could pull, but it was definitely more than two. I've seen photos of them pulling 5 or 6 passenger cars in normal service, and they could probably handle more than that on level track.

@@michaelramsey81 >>> Okay, Thanks...👍

Thanks! The background is from TrainJunkies.com

@@michaelramsey81 Thanks, I need to get me some of that!

I do want to get one of the older IHC ones at some point, and compare it to the newer Bachmann. I've seen videos of them and they seem to run really smooth. The old Bachmann ones are definitely junk - the one I showed in this video doesn't run, and I plan on repainting it and putting it on the layout as a static display.

Unless they're cracked (in which case you'd get a loud clunking noise with each turn of the wheels), I think the gears themselves are probably fine. More likely, they're jammed up with old congealed grease, which is a common issue with older locos, especially those that sat without running for many years. Almost every time I've had an old Spectrum loco that ran poorly, a thorough cleaning and re-lubrication has improved it enormously. Take the loco apart down to individual gears, clean them thoroughly (I use rubbing alcohol and an old toothbrush), and apply some fresh grease to the gear teeth and light oil to all pivot points (including the motor bearings). Be sure to use oil that's safe for plastics. While you have the loco apart, it's also good idea to clean the motor commutator (I use rubbing alcohol for this as well, but contact cleaner would probably be better). Unfortunately, as I don't have a 2-10-2, I don't know the exact disassembly and reassembly process, but I can't imagine it's too different from other Spectrum locos. Of course, while it's apart, you'll also be able to examine the gears and see if they're damaged or just dirty. If the gears do need to be replaced, you have a few options. The first place I'd try is the Bachmann parts department. The 2-10-2 is no longer in production, so any replacement parts you find there will be new old stock. If they're out of stock, they're probably not coming back. The next best option is to look for a cheap parts loco with intact gears (which can also be a good thing to have on hand in case other parts break). If all else fails, it may be possible to fabricate new gears with a resin 3D printer, but if you're going to that much effort and expense, you might as well just buy another loco (and even if you do go that route, resin gears will be more brittle than the original nylon gears). Gears in model locomotives don't tend to wear down much, but some early Spectrum models did have issues with the gears shrinking and cracking over time. Thankfully, only one of mine (the Shay) has had this problem, but I've dealt with quite a few of them at the shop. Sadly, since most of the Spectrum line is no longer manufactured, parts are getting harder to come by. Hope that helps!

Those Bachmann Moguls have a hidden screw holding the shell on. You need to pop the top of the sand dome off to access it. I think there are also screws under the cab (it's been a while since I took it apart).

Thanks

It's a Rivarossi 0-4-0 Docksider that I'm working on restoring. It will most likely be the subject of the next video.

You may want to try a thicker glue/water mixture. Too much water can cause it to flow where it shouldn't and carry the ballast with it. This is more of an issue with finer grades of ballast. As for the rail joiners, I was lucky enough for it not to be a huge issue for me (although there are one or two joints that I need to jiggle occasionally to keep them working), but the only foolproof way around it is to solder the rail joints before ballasting (which is what I should have done).

@@michaelramsey81 Good idea, I’ll try that!

I work at a hobby shop, so I mostly buy them through there.

I'd love to get the Rapido D-10 4-6-0, but it's been like 2 years since it was supposed to be available, so I have no idea when. As for the train show, I'd go as early as you can, before the vendors start to run out of stuff.

@@michaelramsey81 they just released a video on the d10 but me personally I like the other class of ten wheeler

@@TheTransportationFanfromCA Ohh, that's cool! Watching the video now. I know BC Hobbies has a few of them on order. I don't know if I'll actually buy one - money's a little tight right now, since I'm in the middle of buying a 1:1 scale car - but I'll definitely make a video about it on the BC Hobbies channel.

@@michaelramsey81 also the train show was today and I got an n scale station and water tower for 17 buckees

Me too. I would love to see a correctly scaled model of #3 produced.

That's the plan!

@@michaelramsey81 AWESOME DUDE!!! 😎

It's a Proto 2000 model that I bought at a train show. It will be the subject of its own video eventually.

@@michaelramsey81 oh cool!

There are two versions. The Sound Value version comes with a basic DCC sound decoder. The plain version (which I have) does not come with a DCC decoder, only a quick plug to install one. I installed a Digitrax decoder in mine.

@@michaelramsey81 Thanks so much for answering my question! Loved your video btw!

The conical shape is quite pronounced, but it's pretty extreme on the real one as well.

@@michaelramsey81 another thing I kinda want to be sold, is a 3d printed steel cab for the 4-4-0, so it would look similar to the 4-4-0 that represented the Texas in the general, and the 4-4-0 in travel town at Griffith park

The Reno and Inyo are almost identical, but in the small details that are different between them (such as the builder's crest on the side between the driving wheels), the model is closer to the Inyo. However, since they are so similar (and dimensionally identical), the model could easily be turned into an accurate Reno with some minor cosmetic changes.

Lol... yes, it's a rather feeble attempt to represent wood.

I removed 40 from the layout temporarily because I simply ran out of room. The UP engine will be the subject of an upcoming review. After that, I'll probably put 40 back where it was.

@@michaelramsey81 ah ok. also ive really wanted to ask this but will 40 get its own video at some point,

@@jasonanderson6583 I honestly never thought about it. Maybe I should do one. I've had that loco forever - it's been such a fixture of this layout and my previous layout that it never occurred to me to make a dedicated video on it.

@@michaelramsey81 i think its time it got some time in the spot light.