After getting a few questions on where the anodes are on older Volvo Diesels and some other engine types I put together this video on how to carefully replace heat exchanger drains with Anodes,
Thanks for your videos, could you make a video about dismantling the heat exchanger on tamd 31p as residues from the impeller will end up in the heat exchanger and cause heat problem. Most people do a descaling, but it can't remove the rubber blades from a defective impeller, so they never solve their real problem
Ted, great videos!!! curious if you’ve done any videos on heat exchangers and/or aftercooler service for a TAMD75? It’s been difficult finding this information.
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 Love it! If you ever decide to host a Volvo Owners seminar, I'd love to pay to attend and come down from Albany, NY. Looking forward to videos on the TAMD75/74. I surely can understand the long list! I say the same on the Microsoft side when folks ask... LOL! I've learnt so much from you already on the EDC system from your vids.
Thanks Ted for the great vid. Would putting teflon tape on the threads insulated the plug from the ground and there for stop the flow of electrons ? Ie stop the anode from eroding ?
Enjoy your videos and am learning heaps.What is your honest opinion of the older Volvo's,eg tamd41.Just bought one and people are telling me there no good, thanks
I think they are good engines, very dependable and fully rebuildable. As with any diesel, parts are expensive. I've worked on many over the decades. The biggest problem is finding someone who knows how to work on them!
Hi Ted quick question, I have a 310 D6. When the ignition is on just before they crank over I noticed a click click sound that doesn't stop until you turn the key off. Don't know if it does it when running as too much noise. Its sound like its coming from the fuel rail ?? both engines do it. Only just noticed as usually I'm not near the engine bay on startup, maybe normal, love to hear your thoughts. Good info on your channel Thanks
The threads are tapered "pipe" so the inside hole diameter is 1/4" for pipe fittings and metal pipe, so the outside thread diameter is larger and tapered.
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 Hello Ted, thank you for your reply. I saw that video, and i ask my volvo penta dealer for new anodes, but they say that engine need no anodes... So now i am not sure what to do... On the other hand it is very difficult because we have only little space
It will still have contact, the tape just fills in the grooves. If you want you can always test he fitting to the housing with an ohm meter, I'm positive you will read continuity
Hi Ted great channel! This is a different topic but Can you tell me why I can't use a Volvopenta 8.1 gas fuel pump (with FPR on the highpressure pump) on a Volvopenta 380 Gas engine. Same bolt pattern, same water cooler line locations, same electrical connections, same "Carter" high pressure and lower pressure pumps and the same fuel pressure regulators. The carter part numbers on the pumps are identical, so is there a reason I can't use the 8.1 (which is available in the aftermarket world) on my 380 CE-A engine? Any opinion would be greatly appreciated.
I believe all 8.1 engines ran at 40 psi. The V8-380 6.0L used 50-60 Psi I can't find the official fuel pressure for the V8 380 CE-A at the moment so they my not be the same fuel pressures. If you can determine the fuel pressures for each is the same, then I see no reason that you couldn't use the 8.1 pump assembly.
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 Ted thank you so much for the reply., If I switch the FPR on the 8.1 fuel pump with the 6.0 FPR will that correct/regulate the PSI output, or am I missing something? The FPR seems to fit in without issue?
@@xuv5607 I believe it should work fine since you have the same fuel pump part #'s, so the volume will be fine. Just ensure all the fuel lines line ends match up and attach with no issue. I always change the fuel line end o'rings and put motor oil on them prior to installation. Let me know how you make out.
