This guy is the man! Your video fixed my front end wander after 5 shops and two years with no fix, until your video! Thank you for putting out videos and helping people. Can’t wait till your channel blows up.
@@InTheShop just put a new bedside from ford on my 14 f350 power stroke. Was minor and just starting, but it was toast and the truck was otherwise pristine, mostly. Now it’s the 03’s turn, and this seems perfect.
Excellent video...! My 2012 F-250 is going into semi-retirement and I wanna clean up those wheel arches and replace the bed floor and rails. Seems like take-off beds are up quite a bit in price, so this is a great alternative....
Once the patch panel is trimmed, bin the marker, grab your grinder with a skinny 1mm cutting disc & cut around the patch (clamp it in place so it doesn't shimmy) cutting through the bodywork as well. If you tilt your cutting disc so it "Undercuts" the patch panel - bang - perfect fit every time, which cutting to a marked line will NEVER achieve. If you try follow a marked line, your disc will always wander/be off/nothing will fit nice - cut around the actual patch itself (or even cut through both the patch & the body) and bingo - she fits like a glove. It's just a whole lot easier. :-)
I know as I do this stuff ^^ day in and day out at work, btw. All we do is rust repair - nothing else. Eventually you get good at it/work out what works. I started at it in 1984.. :-)
Would you recommend just going through both the patch panel and body before even trimming anything or should I trim the patch first then cut around it on the body?
What kind of cordless tool are you using with the cookie wheels? Is it just a small drill, or is it some sort of higher speed grinder? Does it need an attachment to fit the cookie wheels?
@@ojmcbaggins almost any wire feed welder would get the job done. I like to stay away from flux core so any gas shielded machine will do. Honestly the harbor freight Vulcan machines are pretty nice for the money.
Hello can you please help me out I need someone to fix a 1997 ford van it's rot rust on the undercarriage frame how much will you charge to fix it I really need some help
Why not cleaning the rusted area first before cutting the replacement part? This way you can replace a still perfect part. Plus it is always smart to leave a couple of mm to slowly massage the replacement in place
Thoughts on welding on the back side of the panel so that you avoid having to grind paint side. I’ve done similar jobs plenty of times where this approach isn’t an option but I’m in the same boat with the inner liner so the room will be there. Just wondering if anyone has had success or tried doing it this way .
@@InTheShop it was a good video ! I like watching others work .. LOL. I am not a body-man myself, I have done very similar repairs my self though ... and I found if your gaps are very close you can tig it with very little distortion .. or if you have the "fancy" new inverter mig machine like the millers with RMD or some HTP or fronius welders you can run full length beads without warpage or distortion ... but not everyone has the fancy stuff ... for what you are doing there there is nothing wrong with spot welding the entire thing ..... its not like its a load bearing part and maximum strength is. concern ... this is a purely cosmetic repair ...
