Bending Solid Wood With A Band Saw?

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Get the step-by-step plans to build this Modern Desk Lamp here: www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/m...
A desk lamp from Woodsmith Magazine featured an interesting take for the shade. It's made from two blanks of solid wood. To get it to bend in a circle, you make alternating cuts at the band saw. Phil Huber shows just how easy that is to do.
With its round shade and simplistic design, this desk lamp offers a good amount of woodworking, in a small, easy-to-build project. You might think the construction of the round, “louvered” lampshade using common woodworking tools is far-fetched. But the shade is so simple to build, you may find that you can turn out a couple of these desk lamps in a single weekend. The trick is to start with a couple of squared-up blanks. You then cut all of the joinery before “bending” the shade halves together to form a round shade. It may sound difficult now, but the plans will walk you through the entire process. The remainder of the parts for the lamp are just as easy to make. And because of the small size of this project, it’s the perfect place to showcase some attractive wood.
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Опубликовано:

23 сен 2019

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Комментарии : 24

@jePenseQuoi 4 года назад

I made this lamp, and it came out really well. I have some points of caution/note. As mentioned in other comments, the flex in the shade as it is being cut is a real issue. I solved this by starting the cuts on the right side of the blade, flipping end-for-end to make the "midway" cuts on the other end and then marching across the work. In this way, the "flexy" part of the work is always on the right-hand-side of the blade, never against the fence. There are two components to the shade, so so you can set the fence for each cut and cut each half. The second issue is sanding, and this was the real pain. You are trying to get 220-grit smoothness between all those slats in the shade. No bandsaw is going to leave a surface that is anywhere smooth enough, so expect LOTS of sanding in areas that are VERY DIFFICULT to sand (and will be illuminated by the bulb). This part of the project was by far the longest and exhausting. I would never make this project again unless someone told me how to solve this issue.

@WoodsmithShowandmagazine 4 года назад

Yeah, I would say that sanding inside the kerfs to 220... I'll ask Dillon if he has any tips or tricks. I just checked our lamp and it's not sanded perfectly smooth. There are still some visible saw marks but it seems to still look pretty good. Phil made the lamp as well and he said he didn't sand them beyond knocking down any fuzzy stuff.

@drobb4207 4 года назад

Now that is a unique project and conversation piece too. Good job Phil!

@WoodsmithShowandmagazine 4 года назад

Thanks, Don!

@JusBidniss 4 года назад

Another way to avoid the flex issue or manually steering the cut, would be to make a small sled for the piece to ride on (having a push fence and a kerf line in the sled sawed almost up to that fence), and have the sled rub along the bandsaw's fence instead of the work piece. This would eliminate the need to reposition the fence for each cut, since the piece would be repositioned on the sled instead. This also has the advantage of being able to align each cut over the kerf line in the sled. To get even more fancy, a spacer block equal to the width between the cuts could be made, and set between the piece and a stop block attached to the sled. Then to move over the piece for the next cut, simply remove the spacer block, slide the piece into the stop block, clamp the piece, move the stop block over and re-insert the spacer block, making both tight against the edge of the piece, clamp the stop block, remove the clamp on the piece, then make the next cut. More accurate than eyeballing a mark, but not as elaborate a sled as could be made for batching them out in a production setting.

@WoodsmithShowandmagazine 4 года назад

I like it!

@Yawles 4 года назад

Good project! Challenges skills and inspires a technique that may be used on something totally different.

@WoodsmithShowandmagazine 4 года назад

Thank you!

@wwill1227 2 года назад

This is how I solved the flex prob. I clamped a long block behind the fence and used a 3/16" strip between the block and the back of the fence as a space indexer. After making a cut, remove the spacer, move the block back up against the fence, loosen the fence, reinsert the spacer. If you flip the board end to end after each cut, the solid portion of the workpiece will always be against the fence. Also, no measuring required.

@anar9715 4 года назад

Wonderful thank you

@WoodsmithShowandmagazine 4 года назад

Thanks for watching.

@mountainviewturning5319 4 года назад

Great ideal 👍

@WoodsmithShowandmagazine 4 года назад

Thanks!

@amftapper 4 года назад

I would love to see my students try that - with a few exceptions, it will be a mess lol

@godzilla6840 4 года назад

COOL!

@onlythejeffness 4 года назад

For more precision while at the bandsaw, start your cuts from the center of the board and work your way out. This way you won't have to fight the flex of the board.

@WoodsmithShowandmagazine 4 года назад

Good idea.... Actually, I think that is the way we show it in the plan, but Phil has to do everything different ;)

@johnslaughter5475 4 года назад

Even though the kerf of a band saw is very narrow, I'd cut a set of thin pieces the thickness of the kerf and then insert one into each cut. This should remove all of the flex.

@WoodsmithShowandmagazine 4 года назад

Not a bad idea. Thanks!

@athanasiapas 4 года назад

That's great. I would like to try. What kind of wood is better to use?

@WoodsmithShowandmagazine 4 года назад

We used European Beech and it worked really well, but you could experiment with other woods and see how well it works. I would think that flexibility of the wood would also depend on the grain structure and moisture content, as well.

@athanasiapas 4 года назад

@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine thank you so much!!