Your modest and humble. I love your builds and ever greater, the way you work with the books community; very inspirational. That will be my life in the near future.
I have stressed out big-time trying to come up with a legitimate design for a U-Haul pass-through and never even thought of using a door like this! I did come up with a pretty good idea using pipe insulation on a PVC frame that can float as the seal and then just use a curtain Because the idea of creating a lip for the accordion seal like you did cross my mind but I just didn't see it as feasible and too much work but I guess compared to the other options it's a damn good idea! Another thing to keep in mind is that All of that needs to be sealed up like the world depends on it with silicone because if you start getting moisture into that plywood between the metal sheets that makes up the box walls you will essentially destroy the entire build when that wood rots.
1) He paneled the inside wall of the box BEFORE cutting out and installing the door. 2) 0:35 There is a gap of about 5” between the box and front cab. 3) 1:03 He bought the 22” wide X 42” tall Lippert RV door off of eBay. 4) 1:49 Buy “Accordian Boot” from eBay, etc. to fill that gap. This has two metal clips that run along each edge. 5) 2:09 Trace door on cardboard for template with marker. 6) 3:01 Center template on wall and scribe line. 7) Drill pilot hole through BOTH so I can start cutting with Sawsal. 8) 8:01 Sawsall blade is 9” and rated for “wood with nails.” It can cut through BOTH walls at the same time. He suggests using two NEW blades. 9) 8:54 Tape along outside perimeter of line to protect the good edge. 10) 10:34 Cut out FRP frame using the same cardboard template for the door. Cut it so that it is about 27” wide X 48” tall. That’s about 3” wider and taller than the opening. 11) 11:56 He glued the FRP using ‘Loctite Powergrab All Purpise’ and self tapping screws about every 8”. 12) Install door. 13) 13:22 The boot clips on the edge of the installed FRP panel and the edge of the door. 14) 13:38 Start boot off center so if you step on it it doesn’t mess it up. 15)
I second cutting the walls individually. Sawzalls don't like to stay straight. Maybe drill a small hole through the template and through both walls, then you have something to line up the template with, and can put the template inside the cab to cut the 2nd wall.
Nice work. Your video and instructions were really clear. I would worry that the initial hole may not line up perfectly with the cab spot if your angle was a bit off as you go through the box. Maybe a pilot hole the same size as the centre drill would help guide it to the exact spot. Maybe I’m being overly paranoid but I would hate to screw this important cut up.
Yeah the initial circular hole is not that critical..it’s the sawzall part that needs to be straight and those blades can bend especially when they get hot. Mine wasn’t perfect but I went back and trimmed it out. As long as you’re close, it works out
Love your stuff man. I can't wait till your at 500k subs. I'm guessing only a build or two away. If not, maybe try jumping out of a plane with only a cordless drill and a fan flade in the chuck. Is the cab loud as fuch with just the rubber gromet in place? I'm talking on the interstate. Keep up the great fun!!
Thank you 🙏🏻 the cab is louder with the passthrough than without but the rubber boot dampens it down. To me, not a big deal. I still prefer it over an open cab like sprinter where you have to listen to all your stuff banging and rattling around. I can take phone calls and enjoy the stereo in peace
Pretty nice. Good idea to use an RV door. Would it be possible to put the lock in the other side? Also the FRB was clever. I’ve seen other methods and this looks nicer.
Thanks, the lock should be on the other side to be functional for this build however it can’t be reversed. I’ll add some type of lock on the inside to keep people from entering the box if they get inside the cab
@@nomadbrad503 very helpful..I want to learn to be this handy🙂sad we must be so careful with other Humans😔plz learn how Jehovah God will Soon make ALL Earth 🌎🌍 Safe no violence no war no death perfect world Forever @JW/Jehovah's Witnesses
Nomad Brad, thanks for the great video! Any suggestions on how to do something like this when the box truck has a window spanning the back wall of the cab?
Well, you’ll have to remove the window. You can then make the opening the same size as the window opening or you’ll have to fill the gaps with plywood to make it smaller
Very cool! One of the best pass-through ideas I have seen. How did you work around the interior portion of the lock being on the cab side where it can be unlocked easily by an intruder? Thanks.
The door opens into the box so when I pull the bench out into bed configuration it’s impossible to open that door. I do that for extra security if I’m leaving the van parked somewhere sketchy
🇺🇲🇺🇦 Ok first I'd like to say this was the first time I have come across one of your videos and it was awesome, but: 1 - for a less adept self doer as myself I wish you had included the How to cut, place & attach FPR Board. 2 - I would of liked to have seen the finished doorway with the door open and closed from the front of the cab. 3 - As an FYI, placing the seam of the boot closer toward the door hinge side of the opening would I think, better keep the boot safe from being stepped on. Again awesome vid and thanks so much for putting it out there especially for us paint by the number types. 🤪 🙏☮🙏 Ps - In the cab loved seeing your doggie-dog in his/her bed. He/she is very beautiful!
Bro when it comes to your electric system could you please go in depth and try to easily explain it. I just bought an old fedex step van and I’m currently saving up to convert mine. I’m only 20 and have veryyyyy little electrical work outside of school. I’m pretty sure I can figure everything else out but the electrical and solar shit makes me nervous. Love the vid btw
great stuff! Would it be possible to somehow insert a sliding door in that area? Insulation will become an issue of course, and connecting the cordeon. But maybe there is a way?
i remember years ago on a move - think it was a ryder - but was the bigger 26 footer? and it had the pass through door. I thought these early 2000 15 footers were also like that but i see they are just like the new ones - separate crappy fiberglass cab back with the gap.
Brad, a couple questions, please… 1) After installing the FRP frame, does it extend past the door opening about 1” all the way around? 2) To keep the boot in place forever, would it help to apply contact cement to the boot and the edge of the FRP frame it attaches to? 3) Should I order a boot for a 5” wide gap? Thanks!🤙🏼
yes frp is extended all the way around. yes you could use an adhesive on the boot if you like. I dont remember what boot i ordered but 5" sounds about right
I love the door. I've been looking for it from Lippert online referencing the numbers on the sticker you showed. I can't seem to find it yet. Where did you purchase it?
With the expenses of apartments getting really exspensive in MD I kinda am going to be doing something like this so in cases if people get on my nerves I can takey house with me lol how much does this kind of thing cost
The accordion boot has metal clips built in that secure it to the aluminum door frame. If you screw through the boot it will no longer be air/water tight. If you’re concerned about the boot falling off you could use an adhesive. This is the method I used in my last box truck. It lasted 2.5 years without falling down
Hey Nomad Brad, how did you connect the accordion boot to the RV door aluminum step plate? This door I just got has no edge on the step like the rest of the frame.
The jump seat is fixed and does not fold. You will not be able to use a door if you keep the seat. Unless you make a custom jump seat but then it will still be difficult to climb over the seat into the back
I filmed what I could. Life gets busy and I work while living in this full time. didn’t have the time to do a full dedicated build series. Filming while building takes twice as long. And sometimes I just need to bust out projects.
Ive considered doing this on my truck many times but my motor is directly below the cab so I imagine a huge increase in motor and road noise if I were to do this leading to fatigue on long trips. Did you notice a lot more noise while driving after? It would be more difficult but putting the door on the cab side would have helped.
How did you seal the accordion from the outside (between cabin and the box)? Now when it rains, the water stays on top of that accordion boot and might get inside the plywood wall.
I got a 2006 3500 chevy box truck, I've been wanting to convert our box but idk where to start, where to go to get the right screws boards etc etc. I'd like to make half into home like look, carpet sofa or bed then the other half turn that into a tool box cuz my dude owns his selfmade 57years of successfully mechanic business, he wants to try mobile mechanic thing nd got the truck to turn into tool thing. (wanting the whole truck to be one but no, I'm putting a cozy space for me in it too lol. ) the whole interior needs a upgrade. can u do a video on a chevy box truck
how did you get the self-tapping screws drilled into place (mounting the FRP to ext. of cab) with there being such a small amount of space between cab and box to fit an impact driver or drill?
you have to hold the bolt stationary while you loosen the nut. either you need someone on top holding the bolt or you can put a wrench over the bolt and zip tie it to the base of the chair to keep it from moving ( thats what I did )
Wow, that's exactly what I've been looking for but I went to the Lippart website and it doesn't look like they have that door anymore. Did you order it as a special size or something?
@@vanman3752 there’s a similar one for sale right now www.ebay.com/itm/266073286975?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=5NfBMjPbQSG&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=-iV6hQS6SbO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
@@nomadbrad503 It didn't last long and I did see his other doors but most of them are damaged more than I care for and the shipping is outrageous. Thanks anyways for the tip. I'm trying to find a source close enough I can pick it up and save the shipping cost.
Would there be any reason to install a door in the cab and another door in the box? I'm thinking two doors would make it quieter so anything rattling in the box would not be heard.
It was done on purpose. The door needs to swing open into the box not the cab. And the locking mechanism can’t be reversed. To block access through the passthrough I just slide out the bench about 6” makes opening the door from cab impossible
As any space inhabited by a human being, there is the possibility of an EMERGENCY, for example a FIRE, or an accident, or whatever, the situation REQUIRES 2 ESCAPE ROUTES, one at the back door and a second one at the front. JUST BASIC SAFETY !
Sorry. But, that is a crappy door because no matter how strong the metal is...... everything on Earth is only as strong as it's weakest part. The glass in the middle can be broken in 2 to 5 seconds and it's big enough for a small man to get through it. So, again sorry. But, you don't have a safe enough door installed, especially if you are away from your truck.
Sir, I am not building a panic room here. Anyone could just smash out the drivers window and Hotwire this van if they wanted to do me dirty. The strength of the little door in the middle means nothing. And this is in fact an exterior door from an RV so you could say the same thing about every rv that has been manufactured with a window..someone could break out the glass and climb inside. 🤷🏻♂️
lol you should have stayed in school. He didn't want to come out and say it but we all know the reason for a pass-through door is in case of horrible weather when you arrive or depart your parking space and also if anything shady would be going on in the area and you want to depart safely without having to exit the vehicle. This is why most pass throughs use a freaking curtain! NOTHING you said has ANYTHING to do with ANYTHING. In fact, the points you made are among the most irrelevant I've ever heard in 55 years walking this planet.
