Big Bore Kit (Ebay): rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53... Big Bore Kit (Amazon): amzn.to/2KV4WVz Thanks for stopping by my channel! Patron: / dylondesbiens Business inquiries: dylon.desbiens@yahoo.com
Hey Dylon were you one that recommended getting the KTM carburetor for your 50cc pit bike with the performance egine? If so I was just wondering what jetting sizes you used because I finally got mine up and running and it runs kind of crappy. You helped me with a couple of other things with the bike last year. Thanks in advance.
The piston will expand slightly once the engine is warmed up. That's why it's 43.9mm and not 44mm. If it's 44mm when cold then the clearance between the piston and the cylinder will be too small/tight once warmed up which could cease the motor
I always found the "Black Widow" reeds the best for a high-performance build and for the head, you should use a performance head where you can adjust your "squish" settings (the amount of space at TDC as you can change your compression) and get that maximum performance, 2 shoe clutch with adjustable springs, various gearing and the possibilities are endless. The top end speed I managed to get out of my 49cc lucky 7 was 74mph
don't worry about the baring my dad works on all kinds of stuff like that and he had the same problem but he tried it and it worked and we still use it today and we put the ket in one year ago so it will be fine
If the bearing has that much movement in between the rod the engine will blow up instantly. The bearing will likely break apart and seize the bottom and top end after all the little needles get stuck inbetween them.
You can make a small engine dyno. An inertia dyno would probably be easiest and reasonably accurate for your purpose. I would make it where you could add and remove weights to allow to test on different engines and get several seconds of run time so it doesnt rev to quick but doesnt bog the engine. I believe there is a guy on RU-vid that made one his channel was twostrokestuffing I believe. If you need any more help I can try my best to help
in our country if you buy order big bore kit, it will came with new performance crankshaft and you will not have these type of problems (and engine will rev even more because the crankshaft will handle it, i think about 2000rpm more, i didnt test it yet..) use 2stroke oil, that is good advice (you can read why up in these coments) I think you didnt use the cylinder gasket (between cylinder and crankcase) so check it because without this gasket your engine will not start up... the window in piston is for the third transfer port in your new cylinder ;) (you will get more mixture into your cylinder) and no that window is not weight reduction :D :D because some people will think it... carbon reed valves - awsome thing, I love this thing, you will have large increase in accerelation rocket key - it is very good thing, you will increase accrelation, power in HP and top speed little bit, but something is still mising there... your flywheel is heavy, so I recommend you to buy performance flywheel instead, it is lightweight and you must not use rocket key because timing is changed in factory (if you cant find it, just type in google "tuningovy zotrvačnik minibike" and you will find some photos of that) carburetor - the stock one is carb with float, performance carb that you used (that on the photo) is also float type, but it have 15mm bore what is much better compare to stock 12mm, but it is china style and lot of people have trouble with them... the last one witch you are preparing for your engine is 15mm too but it is another typ, it is membrane carb, this type of carbs you can find in chainsaw, weedeater and stuff like that, it is much better because this carbs dont have issues with mixture even if they are upside down... but please study how they works and how to mount them before you start... I personaly dont test them yet so I cant tell you about performance but if you set good mixture (with set screw on carb) it will be fine and I think you will have better performance than from the stock one :D just pay attention on mixture otherwise you can kill the engine ... exhaust - I didnt see any exhaust in the videos, why ? without exhaust you will loose all performance... and you can even kill the engine if you run it long and in high RPM... and again you will lose lot of your performance, engine will not be able to rev more than 8KRPM i thing... in 2 strokes all performance is depending on your exhaust... the stock exhaust will perform better than nothing, yes with or without exhaust this engine will be very loud, but with the exhaust you will have power too ... dyno - only way that I know right now is (also it is cheap and you can do it easily): use big eletric motor as generator, than start pluging some bulbs (high power) and plug them one by one until they start going out, just little bit, and use multimeters to mesure current and voltge, by multipling it you will get power in W (you will need at least halogen lamps because stock pocketbike have around 2kW that is 2000W) if you want know the horsepower you just simply multiply performance in kW by 1,3 and you will get your horsepower... but remeber it is not exactly perfect mesuring so you will lose about 10-30% by conversion to electricity, multimiters are not allways perfect (so readings may be different) power loos in cables and stuff like that, but it should work just fine for small tests and maybe you will use it as generator in blackout so maybe it will worth it :D :D :D
Wow thanks for taking all the time for this. Awesome... I was going to do the user suggested "rip some of the fins off the flywheel" But I think I will go your route and get the performance wheel. For the exhaust pipe, its shown at 12:06 / I might not fully understand your dyno Idea so I will read that over a few times and talk to smart friends about it :D Thanks !! Carb tests coming soon too / Edit And yea the gasket is there just hard to see, I didn't change gaskets or remove any
Jeibaru Turay if your carb is leaking, the float is probably stuck, so you should clean your carburetor. If its knocking you need a bigger gasket to get a little less compression or you can use higher octane fuel. I recommend to get higher octane fuel before you buy a new gasket
Sorry for my bad english :D I was in hurry, so I don't have time to check what I have writen... Dylon sorry, I missed the scene with exhaust first time, my bad :D This exhaust shoud work great. Carburetor leaking, I don't know if you mean air leaking or fuel leaking, so if you have air leake you must change all gaskets + check your reed valves (just take them and look against light, it's not perfect but it works, or simply take them and try suck air throught them, that is better working, personaly I always use second metod, and I always try blow/suck/blow/suck if they are closing properly) But if you have fuel leaking, start by changing fuel hose (use hose clamps) than dissassemble carb and clean him. I don't know wich carb you using so I will tell you what you should do with stock one (I whould like to make a video for you but I dont have a stock carb right now, only the performance carb...) so if cleaning don't help you, than again dissasemble carb, now just put the bottom bowl down, check float valve, if it works fine, you have the biggest challange - set the float level by bending fork. But remeber changing float level also change mixture ratio !!! Low level you will have lean, high level you will have rich, you must find the ideal for your engine (every engine is special, 2 engine with same settings of mixture doesn't exist) For a knocking, please specify wich type of engine you are using, but I think it cloud be also damaged engine, so check your compression...
Also those carbys need a different fuel tank, but when u have them all tuned up they run way better then stock just takes a little to get the bike started
If you look around, you can find kits that are similar to this one, but they have 2-3 boost ports with the main transfers separated, which makes 4 transfers instead of 2 (6 or 7 transfer ports in total counting boost ports).
I didn't see you install a base gasket. Maybe I missed that part of the video... Also the first carb wasn't a high performance piece. If it has a rotating drum with a hole in it, then don't bother with it. A 15mm Walbro pumper carb (or cheaper clone) would be my suggestion. Defiantly make sure the crank is a full circle type and install a V-block reed valve. I wouldn't worry about the wrist pin bearing. The same thing happened with my big bore kit on my X-1. Do not install an electric starter. Also get the right NGK plug. I hoped this helped some,
If you are going to make a engine run stand it will be fine if u want to be on the safe side take the clutch out , with that carby the fuel tank u need has a 2 lines coming from the tank
When you got the motor ready to put on , how did you mount it ? I'm using a 4 stroke motor mount on mine and it needs to go to the right about 3 ' . Did you have the same problem ?
Thank you, I like your videos mate. Is there any reason I shouldn't use spacers to raise my 49cc motor in the frame of a Chinese pocket Bike to give the chain clearance on the (non Swinging) swing arm? At the moment the wheel sprocket, pinion, wheels & chain are perfectly aligned so I don't want to go messing with wheel spacers to gain clearance that way. But if I was to space the motor 5mm upward I could still keep everything aligned as it is now. It would be simple to adjust the top motor bracket & exhaust bracket to fit the lift and the tank would still clear the expansion chamber. Couldn't find any info on Google anywhere so some constructive views on the subject would be good. Thanks
If you put the clips in the piston use a cloth and put it in ur engine because the clip can fly away and end up in your engine.... And for installing the piston in the cilinder its much easyer to put the piston in the cilinder before you put the piston on the crankshaft.
For the stock bearing and the movement left and right in the piston skirt it won't matter. The connecting rod only moves up and down in a piston. Never left to right. If it does then that means the piston is to small for the cylinder. Hope that settles your nerves a bit
Thanks your correct but I showed it sorta bad in this, I'm more worry the bearing on its own will roll a lot either on the left side or the ride side while the piston is of course centered. causing some bad wear over time or something fatal to happen on a bump or what ever the elements bring out when riding. But now I see they show the stock bearing in the listing image... So Some mistake was made by this seller. Waiting to hear back.
Have you used drivven? Compact I/o modules that give the mini diagnostics on par with anything out here. I have an array of sensors and mad knowledge don’t know if you ever got an answer ?
Piston rings will not stretch out as you say .I've installed piston rings in an all kinds of engines for many years including ones like this and you can stretch them out enough to get them to go along they make a tool for it yes sometimes they break either way..
Also, it's easier to instal the bottom piston ring in the top groove first, then move it to the bottom to avoid stretching it as much as possible, then install the top ring in the top groove.
I have the same engine and the sprocket on he clutch housing is stripped and I can’t tell weather or not I need to push out the sprocket or just unscrew it does anyone know what to do???
hi i just ordered some bigbore kit on amazon, it came with the entire top end and a supposely more higher perfromance carb than what allready on the syx moto i got, hey i was womdering do you think i can uae the same crank shaft or should i upgrade it since im using a bigger bore, i seen other kits come with a crankshaft but my kit didn't come with one. Do you think it will be ok? maybe its the same size cranks shaft" or do you think the one that comes with the big bore kit is better?
Hey man can you send me a link for that pull starter and a part number or link to the proper coil? Just got a SSR 47cc for my son real cheap but needs new coil and pull start
My 4 stroke 100cc has 54mm bore, I want to put it on my bike that I made from scratch and it has a lot of gears(it is on my channel)...do you think I can reach 90mph at least
The carb plus starter are from a dr50 engine a totally different kettle of fish... and yes the engine will be okay on its own with no load I have a mini moto with no chain for about 6 months now cos I can’t get the right one and it has no load and it will be perfectly fine
Dylon Desbiens For the stock bearing and the movement left and right in the piston skirt, it won't matter. The connecting rod only moves up and down in a piston. Never left to right. If it does then that means the piston is to small for the cylinder. Hope that settles your nerves a bit
To everybody that want's to do this: If your Engine doesn't turn over on the First start try to remove the Sparkplug and turn it over Fast a couple of times, it could be that you just put to much oil into the Cylinder.
What''s the difference between the 47cc and 49cc other than two cc's, why do you prefer the 47cc?, ya might want to think about making a dummy axle with a drum type strap-brake for the engine stand, how else would you ever be able to measure the HP/torque?, btw, they actually sell small engine dyno's on eBay, great video, thanks for sharing.
U need put thin washers case harden pick them at lawn mower places or mower cycles should have those type of washers on both side keeps bearing moving make sure it design for piston this will make ur engine last longer
Hi I've got a 4 wheel electric scooter electric scooter I would like to know if I could fit that sort of end I could fit that sort of engine in it as it doesn't go that fast
hi i have just done the same to my engine i want to see the video with you fitting the electric start what you are doing i am doing the same i am very interested in your videos thank you for every thing well done
Old vid but thy still make thsse engines i bought one when theybwere like 65$ cuz i love 2 stroke projects. Lost the carb never did anythibg with it. Now i see they still sell for almost 200$ now was thinking of buying another for a new project so i have extra parts too, so i csn try a port and polish of the heads an d other stuff. Cant many vids about the oerformance, i was sold on the "high compression head" clsimed to go to 11k rpm but always doubted tht claim. Would love to see and know the pweformance
The engine mount plate needs bracing to handle the stock engine. Considering the flimsy design, first. A yamaha or suzuki jr50 engine, would tear this frame up, quickly. I have one to brace up, for friends, at this time. These mini bikes are, barely, there. Durability is built into nothing on these syxmoto machines. We can do our best to get a summer or two of riding with these.
it will be fine just don't rev the snot out of it use a good oil like klotz R50 mix it rich on oil 25:1 for the frist few tanks then run it at 32:1 mix also use a high octane gas like 91 or better
I have installed big bore kit on my 1PE40QMB. Compression is betweeen 50 and 70 is that too low? Also, my scoote barely moves uphill, downhill and on flat it goes great.
