How to get bleed air out of a clutch master cylinder 

This whole video is like a fever dream. The camera movements really sell it.

After trying to bleed the slave for 30 min. I found this video and after 4 min of work. Boom! It was done. You sir are a god among men! Thank you!

Thank you. This procedure actually work for me but I used a modified version. I got a little bit of air out of the master cylinder with your version. But I still had a very soft pedal. So with the pressure still left in the slave cylinder, vice grips still clamped on the hose, I opened the bleeder at the slave cylinder and quite a bit of air came out. After a few times of doing that the clutch pedal was back to normal.

Wish I had seen this last night. I spent 4 hours trying to bleed my clutch. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.

Worked great on my 86 Chevy K30. Thank you real time saver, I had been bleeding for hours with no results, ten minutes after I watched I was driving the beast.

You sir are a god send, spent two hours trying to bleed my mazda 3 and wouldn't have thought of this! Thank you!

Thank you for the video. Definitely saved me I was going to take my car to the shop tomorrow. I also figured out away to remove a rusted stuck cv axle without any air tools. All you need is a small tourch to heat the bolt, and and I used my own car jack and breaker bar.i put the handle of the breaker bar as close as I could to the jack. Pumped it three times and the bolt broke lose. 2 days of staring at it and it finally hit me. I jack have Ron lifting power. Peace of cake

Good to learn a new method. Thank you!

After exhausting every other method, I remembered watching this the other day. And blow me down if it didn't work for me too. Cheers mate!

This was great! ‘Dead heading’ worked on my ‘07 Ford Focus. I was struggling to get all other types of traditional clutch master cylinder bleeding to work. Appreciate the help...you’re a good man!!

You giving all the tricks away lol it’s brilliant when people have a go and no joy then I turn up do the same angle the car clamp then pressure so bubble up out the reservoir job done then I hear rocky song in my head as I walk away lol

Blocking From Master To Slave. This guy is a genius.

GrT VIDEO having exact same probs,got some Kurds to fix ford transit connect van - drove it around for half hour clutch pedal was slow to come back to the top-thnkx for helep

Reverse bleeding up to the master cylinder reservoir instead of down to the slave cylinder bleeder valve so basically the vise grip is acting as the bleeder valve this is genius gonna try it tomorrow thanks.

Great technique, I did this 3 times on my Ford/Mazda junk, sucked in about about 100ml of fluid. pedal is firm & higher bite point. Thanks RBA. Dead head FTW

Just what I needed. Will try it and hopefully my car will be fixed

Hey man, I tried this on my Tacoma and it worked great! Thanks!

Thank you, that helped FYI, it also works for 2001 Toyota Celica, The elastic hose is behind the air filter and is moderately easy to reach. Hope this helps someone! 😊

love your vids they teach me a lot of shit that i might need 2 do one day

99 Ford Ranger air gets stuck at piston. I'm going to try your way. Put on ramps, needle nose vise on line from master to slave, and pump petal then push down all the way. A year ago I pulled master out to wheelwell so I could bleed it. Worked but alot of trouble. Maybe slave is leaking. I like your videos so when I saw RustBelt Auto I knew it would be good.

Thank you so much! Worked on my bmw E90!

Thanks for the video sir!

Yo this actually worked I'm so stoked thx for the vid

Thank you so much I needed help with my car.

This is the exact video I needed to see…

"if you have no flexible hose, you're pretty much screwed" lol okay good to know, guess I'll just continue pumping the way I have been

Thanks for the video! It helped me troubleshoot my girlfriend's car. 2007 Dodge Caliber with a "squishy" clutch pedal and no engagement into first gear.

I just put a splitter into reservoir, one connected to line, the other with bleeder. I learned it works on either end. I put mine near the reservoir, then just pump and open to bleed it, like a brake line, you can even use the hose, and fluid in container to bleed yourself.

Thank you for helping the common man…. ( bows in respect)

this worked! thank you!

It worked on my Volvo 940, thank you!

Thanks for that will try it . Just had no clue other than trying to bleeding from the slave nipple

Man you sound like a sophisticated peter griffin

LOL "If you have no flexible hose, you're pretty much screwed." Great video and method! Thanks! I'm gonna try it on my '05 350Z. Praying for a flexible hose to be there.

Thanks. Worked fine on my insignia. Saved my day.

Hopefully this works on my 2014 tC. Just changed out the transmission. Before the transmission swap I couldn’t get into any gear without a grinding sound like my clutch wasn’t engaging and now after the swap it’s acting the same after bleeding the hell out of the line for like 2 hours…thanks for the video!

Thank you.

I never done this before but mine was really soft after master and slave cylinder replacement; bleed it through the slave nipple for a good min, let it drip few drops, tightened nipple, went to pedal; no more spongy feel, now it feels like it suppose to, before the rod at the slave was not moving now I got it to move the fork.

After battling to bleed the clutch, it was soft, and couldn't get the bubbles out. Thank yo very much, did it once, and like brand new. South Africa

How many times should I bleed it with the vice grips to be successful

Does anyone know how many times I have to press my clutch pedal for it to return? My slave is slowly in sync woth with my clutch pedal. Been at this for about an hour. Replaced slave and master yesterday..

It was funny when he just said "Ok bye" lol but thanks for the video lol

I e got the same with a 2006 vw golf gti (cub USA) no mechanic but tried alone all week and once with my mrs, really struggling and self employed so no work for a week and this week, took ages to get fluid through but still not clutch, nothing failed just a retainer clip on the bleed valve

Hi.. I have an opel astra J 2012.. O was driving and the concentric slave died of that's the correct term.. It was replaced and sits in the gearbox.. After that my gears wouldn't change smoothly and I would pump the clutch a few times and we able to shift.. I drove about 350km and parked when I arrived home.. In the morning I started the car and the gears wouldn't shitt.. When the engine is off they do shift. What do I need to do without taking it to anyone simply becoz I cant even afford to tok to a mechanic?? I turn the engine off and put it in gear and start again so I can move it around the yard... If I drive it around the block I have to pump the clutch a few times to find 3rd gear.. Do I have to have my master replaced? They struggled to bleed the crap out of the car.. They did fine with the breaks but struggled with the clutch

My slave cylinder isn't reacting to my clutch pedal either. There is oil and random air coming out of bleeder valve. When I put cap back on and pumpedy slave manually I heard a suction sound. But still no resistance. I think my pedal returned very slightly from the floor, but not much

thank you!

I have a 2009 VW Jetta TDI and it doesn't have any rubber hoses, is there any other option foe me?

Thanks for the video man currently fixing girlfriends 2006 Saturn Vue it started with trouble shifting then when it got cold the shifter cable bushing broke at gear shift after replacing that car would shift fine while engine wasn’t running but clutch would not engage clutch master cylinder was bone dry about to try this method and hope I have a fix OKAY BYE

Some good info. The only clutch I ever need to bleed was on my Toyota pickup and it was pretty easy for the most part. Thanks for the video, OKAY BYE!

Will this method also work on clutch with fluid reservoir not connected to brake? I mean cluth line has its own reserve tank, like the ones on honda civic eg 1992?

Working on a 04 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart after replacing master and a few brake lines we sucessful got good break pedal snd the clutch pedal seems to have similar pressure as it did before but for some reason the clutch will notdisengage making it impossible to shift from park. We have rules out internal clutch damage because when we push the car we are able to shift once its rolling. Been bleeding this clutch for several days now. Any suggestions ( Has a fairly new Slave and clutch) Slave is moving but idk if it's moving enough. Pedal was adjusted months ago when the Clutch, master and lines were failing to accommodate ?

the hose you are clamping, is that going from the reservoir to the master cylinder, or to the slave cylinder? thanks.

I got my car back from the mechanic because I had him change the manual transmission. I drove 2 hours or so and came home from an hour trip and at the busy stoplight my stick shift didn't want to budge. I pushed the car to a safe spot I turned the car off put it in 1st gear then drove home in 1st gear. Next morning I added more clutch fluid and it works great again. I'm guessing the mechanic didn't bleed the air right but I slept the night thinking my used $700 dollar transmission was bad. But it was just the clutch having air or maybe the mechanic didn't put enough fluid. He's a good mechanic though.

great info, thank you. But why do you push fluid pass the vise-grip (4:09)? is this an attempt to push the air in the master cylinder into the slave cylinder?

My hose was leaking. Had to replace that. Came across this. Tried it. Clutch feels good after 6 years..

Changed as some brake cleaner seems to have a good way soaked it up undid the hose for air traps and she is oldcar mite need this and do other side in case of leaks but does it have to go to master cylinder resivoir it mite be in a hard slot to find another is lifting the car when this happens luckyiv keept spare ring ,

hi thank you for this very good video today my car got same problem i though its clutch and then we found out its master slender

I have a question on my 2005 Mazda 3 hatch back manual my clutch goes up but it’s feels like there’s no pressure when I press down it just goes straight to the floor. But it goes back up no problem. Bad clutch? Or just air in it? Please let me know

Fact: "dead head the system" worked on my mazda 6i 5 mins ago.

thanks

Cant tell which hose you put vise grips on... is the master to reservoir? Ty

Hey, so I'm having an issue with my clutch. When the car is cold, the clutch works, everything works, but when the car warms up, my clutch pedal doesn't work. It acts like it should, but doesn't disengage the actual clutch so I can't put the car in gear. Could this be my issue? I already have a new clutch kit ready to go in, but I want to try the easiest thing first.

Have you ever dealt with this on a 2nd generation Chevy Cruze? I really don’t wanna have to drop the trans which is where the slave is lol but I keep just having random clutch issues where the pedal sticks to the floor

SOLVED!!! I have an 05 Scion tC, the first time i did the Clutch Master Cylinder was a nightmare to get the air out. Make sure you bench bleed the master cylinder b4 doing this. The second time i had a brilliant idea, BTW (keep an eye on the reservoir to make sure it doesnt run empty or you'll suck air into the system.) DIsconnected the bottom end of the hard line that's connected to the flex hose that runs into the slave cylinder, i attached some clear tubing to the end of the hard line and siphoned the air out with my mouth, then i pinched the hose thats connected between the master cylinder and fluid reservoir with vice grips and removed the tubing, then reattached the hard line to the flex line and removed the vice grips. Then i attached the tubing to the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder and i opened the valve and siphoned the rest of the air out, then i pinched the flex hose that runs between slave cylinder and the bottom of the hard line with vice grips, then i removed the tubing and closed the bleeder valve and removed the vice grips. After all that i never had to use the pedal to bleed the rest of the air out, cause i got so much air out by siphoning it. MAGIC😎

Are the vice grips between the fluid reservoir and master cylinder or between master and slave cylinder ?? Thanks in advance, great video. 👍

Ive got a mazda 6 change clutch master and slaves cylinder and its wont go into gear now bleed it for hours not change might have to give this a go

Nice tip. Do you have any idea why my clutch won’t gravity bleed? I used to be able to in the past but nothing comes out when I open the bleeder at the slave cylinder

Hi, im a little confused about where I am putting the pliers? Am I pinching the hose that comes from the resivour to the master cylinder or the hose coming from the master cylinder towards the slave cylinder? Thanks

First time watching this channel even when I am not a mechanic I can tell this is a great technique. Are you in New York? I would like you to check out mine 2014 jetta, the clutch is a bit too soft and make a lil metal noise when put in reverse. It’s a new clutch I’m not sure if it has air still in the system.

thanks mate

If my master cylinder is inside the cabin and slave is under the hood up top of the car, I pinch the line going from master to slave, I pushed pedal to floor it stayed, pulled back up. Unclamp the line from master to slave and I hear like a suction kinda air sound, did this 3 separate times plus bled slave. Didn’t see bubbles when I did the master just sound, how can I tell if all the air is out of master?

Hi, I need your help please. My car won't go into gear when it is started. It goes into gear when it is not started. I can start it with gear 1,2,3,4,5 & reverse without no issues... once it is started, I can move the car, but It won't let me change it for a different gear. I changed the slave cylinder for a new one, my master cylinder is not leaking either.. I do not know what else to do, please help me.

Is this a new channel i know ur voice cause i watched how to do my c4 to t5 swap about 200 times, anyway thats been a year and i cant get the clutch to disengage so i'm try this, i'll let u know how i do and thax a ton

So my fluid was black as hell and started to bleed it but im pretty sure air got into the system (my helpers fault, classic case of the guy must know more than the girl does) so now I'm not getting any pressure and no fluid is moving when bleeding do I keep redoing cycles and eventually the air will come out? Then dead head if after that the pedal isn't getting pressure correctly? Or dead head now?

Brilliant ,would this work on my ka? do i do it after bleeding or instead of ?

I separated the line from the brake reservoir and made it stand alone for the reservoir for the clutch

So I assume you do this once you have bled and replaced the fluid correct?

Hi there. Ive just replaced the mastercylinder and now having serious problems with the bleeding First i tried the common technique pedal to the floor, open/close bleeding nut again and again and agian, for like 2-3 hours without result. Then i went to get a preassure bleeding device where i ran aprx 2 liters of DOT4 fluid with 2psi preassure, still no succes! Ive got resistance and the pedal rises back by itself, so i guess that there are no problems with the slave being faulty.....im desperate for advices atm.

Where is that flexible pipe located? I have one but I’m not sure if that’s the right one

I’m too dumb to get this to work Jk I just watched your video again and realized I didn’t dead head my pedal thanks man you saved me from another headache and now my clutch engagement is way better

I'm just confused about which line is being clamped. Is it the line between the master and slave cylinders, or the line from the reservoir to the master cylinder? I'm trying to bleed the air out on my 91 Sonoma, and I'm hoping this method works.

I have a 2003 kia spectra and every 2 months ish the pedal will stick to the floor and my dad and I have to bleed it. He wants me to take it to a shop tomorrow and the mechanic wants to replace the whole clutch. I'm not gonna pretend I know alot about cars, but all the videos I've seen like this make it seem like I wouldn't have to replace the whole clutch. If I keep having to bleed the clutch every 2 months, what do you think the issue is and do you think it is worth it to spend $900 replacing the clutch?

I have a 2003 mini cooper s and changed the slave cylinder and bench bled before then bled the system the normal way and my pedal is still on the floor no pressure to go back up?

I just how this guy say im going to look down here just for fun

Q. I have a 1995 s10 chevy.4cyner. 5speed. Cluth is going bad. I removed air from it. That helped alittle. The master cylinder is good! Ok.....does this truck have a slave master cylinder?? If so I can't find it. Could it be the release bearing which is in the tranmission. And for the first time today I noticed it leaking where the transmission bolts up to the engine

My clutch pedal was stuck we bled air out clutch worked but next day as soon the clutch pushed in it doesn’t return fast enough do you think it’s a spring or something loose in the clutch pedal???

Hi mate I’ve replaced a clutch on an Astra sri 08 and after two months the gear wouldn’t go into place unless forcefully pushed and it made a loud screeching noise, I tried again 6 months later and now it’s going in to gear but sometimes with a strain and I have to be delicate with the reverse, makes a large clinking sound. Any help on this would be great been proper stressing about this for a while can’t pay another £800

Mine just keeps getting air might be the brake master cylinder i have to fill it up almost everyday but i see no leak its driving me crazy. Clutch master cylinder and slay cylinder are good.

Hey I have a problem and figured maybe you could help me diagnose. When I depress the clutch I have good pressure. However, when the clutch starts returning I can hear from the footwell either air or fluid leaking out of the system. It sounds localized to the master cylinder. I do not notice any fluids leaking externally so my presumption is that it is either leaking internally, or I have air inside of my system that is slipping past the master cylinder piston. Was wondering your opinion and if you’ve ever encountered this before. Thank you in advance

Had my master and slave cylinder done by a shop. It was fine, but after a few weeks the pedal is spongy until it's pumped a few times- Ive been just dealing with it for months now.. But I'm going to try this method and see if it works!

I have a 2012 Chevy Cruze and it's giving me problems still.

What if you try to dead head the system and still have no clutch pressure

Hola saludos , hello people, im having a little trouble too with my clutch sistem on my foodtruck, its a ford E350 from 1985 its a inline 6 with a manual trans. Replaced with a brand new master cylinder, new line and new slave clutch. And ive been trying to bleed it but just cant get it to work. I get the air out of the slave until it spits out the fluid but the clutch pedal is still very soft whe i push it. And the slave does not move the clutch. What can i do?

Hey man, i watched your vids a lot and i must say i like them a lot. I replaced my clutch and my clutch pelda does not have pressure yo it..its not engaging the clutch at all. I bled the line with half bottle of fluid and it didn't make it better. What advice u have on such issue?

have a 116d with the same problem been quoted 600 for a new clutch

Hi mate can you offer some advice, i had my clutch done about 16 months ago on a vauxhall vectra sri the kit was a 3 piece Luk, and 5 months down the line my clutch pedal hit the floor, i assumed its the master cylinder because the clutch had already been done, so i got the master cylinder replaced, about four months later same thing happened again, i replaced master cylinder again because i thought it must have been a faulty part and today about 4 weeks on the problem is back, am i correct in thinking that there must be a fault with the concentric slave cylinder that was fitted with the LUK kit about 16 months back or do you think there is trapped air in the concentric Slave cylinder? because the master has been done twice now so that rules out the master cylinder.

I'm going to do this to my 2007 Saab 93. Should I top off the Master Cylinder beforehand? Thanks in advance!

working on a 85 305 fire bird starts with out the clutch pushed but when i push the clutch down it wont go into gear

Was that vacuum line going to the master or was it after the master ??

My lines are metal in my chevy truck, so clamping the lines isnt an option. Any other suggestions. I cant get any pressure on my pedal