Fantastic video! I like how you don’t skip anything and offer advice on how to get over any little setbacks we might encounter during the process.. most videos just tell you what to do but you actually show us how to do it, great stuff!
This video helped me so much! I was really hesitant doing this job myself, but you're video persuaded me to do it. Thanks for the great content and informative videos. They really help out a lot, especially for people like me who are new to working on these cars. My e30 drives like it's brand new now!
Nice video, very clear instructions. One thing, maybe a safer/cleaner alternative to having to use the torch to burn out the trailing arm bushings would be to create your own press, using threaded stock, a big nut and fender washers. Press out the old one, press in the new, with turns of a ratchet. I did something like this once with the cutlass bearing on my boat (encloses the prop shaft where it goes through the strut)...maybe it would work! Good job with this, though!
Best way to torch bushing out is to direct flame inside steel bush. It gets hot, pops out. Rubber gets hot, pops out right off. Tip from engineer: anything based on petroleum will destroy any rubber quickly. Use only silicone grease on rubber, as it does not react with it.
Heres one tip to everyone doing this job. Go to Home Depot or lowes and have them cut you a 51" length 2x6 board of yellow pine and use it to balance and support the trailing arms and and differential as you prepare to lower the subframe. If you get your center of gravity correct you can get it all to come down on the jack without dropping it. If you can't tell I've done this once or twice.
Thank you for this video! I have to drop my sub-frame when I get home. I had no clue that you have to use a press on the diff bushing! Thanks again for your videos.
I'm so envious of how rust free your USDM E30 is underneath... My UKDM E30 is so rotten it is unbelievable. Every single metal surface is coated in rust, every single bolt is impossible to remove, and I actually laughed out loud when you were able to just pull the ABS sensor out like that. I had to drill mine out!
Great video, helped me get through my subframe refresh. I put everything back and now I notice I have a clunk when I get on/off the gas. There's no vibration or noise though while under load. I'm not sure if I always had this noise and it's just more pronounced now with 80A poly bushings all around and brand new exhaust hangers and brackets. The noise sounds like its coming from the middle of the transmission tunnel. The only part I deviated from your video was spraying the diff and drive shaft to mark it. Does that make a difference? I thought the drive shaft was balanced in the middle where the 2 parts connect near the CSB.
Hello E30 source kid..You are brillant..i have been looking for repair video like yours; educational, informational and easy to cmprehend..i have a 1989 BMW 3.20i..Euro edition..i plan to keep it as original as the parts will let me...Please let me know if you will work on it..i will foot the bill
shouldn't the trailing arm bushings be installed: pointed ends facing inward? I installed them as per your video, the thick end pointed towards the brake rotors and its not fitting correctly.
There is a reason why special tools are made to replace the subframe bushing and the trailing bushings as well WITHOUT removing the subframe. These tools will run you $200-$250 and you'll do both subframe bushings in 2-2:30 hours and the trailing arm bushings in 2 hours. I have used them many times without going the headache you're going through. It is well spent money if you own multiple BMWs and I owned more than 20 over the years.
Deegs Eightalpha Check with www.koalamotorsport.com They have the tool for rent. I rented one and then machined an exact copy of all the pieces and purchased the puller separately (made by KOKO) because I wanted to have one.
Hey quick question, I heard in the first quarter of the video you said you'd do the transmission linkage to eliminate the slop in the gears, but I guess you didn't add it... I have the same issue and was wondering if you still had plans on doing it.. or when a video for the replacement of the bushings would be? I appreciate your videos very much!
+Madison Huss Yea I never did a video on that because the footage came out too dark. Tough working alone on the floor with no lift lol. I'll see what I can do but I'm away at college as of now.
No leaky selector shaft seal? Impressive. I also still wonder why the USA e30s have the extra bracket underneath the prop shaft and the EURO ones don't, only the convertibles for extra stiffness. 11 and 14mm for the brake fluid lines. It's easier to disconnect the handbrake lines at the handbrake itself and pull them all the way out. Remember to use some copper grease on them as you put them back into the tubes. Makes it a lot easier to pull them out the next time. You forgot to remove the shocks on video ;) 22mm for diff bolt. There shouldn't be any thread in the bushings, strange. I usually put some cushions underneath and pull the trailing arms up and let them fall a couple of times so eventually the whole assembly comes flying down. There should be an outer metal sleeve in the bushings, or defintely in the subframe bushings. So it goes bolt-inner metal sleeve-rubber-outer metal sleeve-rubber-subframe. I had to tap the outer metal sleeve out because the fire couldn't burn the small layer of rubber away. Strange it was,'t the case on your car. You can also press the diff bushing in with a simple vise and some brute force. :) Good video! Indeed one of the major jobs on an e30. I prefer swapping my engine over replacing the back bushing, not even kidding.
E30Source Keep at it. I really like your style, you show what is possible with common tools and some ingenuity. Also you're not afraid to show your missteps along the way. Subscribed!
hey dude, I have a question. My AC clutch isnt kicking in, im trying to refill my freon but its not working, i have the old p12 setup and i managed to get 2 cans. let me know if you have any info or could make a video about how to check the power going to the compressor thanks.
Ahmad Soughar you mean r12? looks like you havent googled shit or done any research about your cars problems. Ive fixed every mechanical and electrical problem on my car with google , including my ac system, you should be able to as well if you are competent.
E30Source I have H&R sport springs. I noticed a reduction in body movement while making transitions, which is good. I almost wish someone would make springs for e30's that don't lower the car so much though. My beautiful M42 oil pan has a few too many scratches in it!
carlos rocha unless it's like mine and it takes 11 hours to cut all the rusty nuts and bolts off. Mines taken 4 days so far. Hoping to finish it tomorrow.
carlos rocha uk car. Had to cut the exhaust bolts off by the gearbox. The subframe sill brackets had to be cut off. I did the brake and fuel lines. Mostly needed cutting off. One subframe bush was perished. Wouldn't come out. Tomorrow the rear axle goes back on. It better go smoothly or I'll set fire to it 😂
Krunoslav09 Poly bushing are great for the track, and yes they help with some suspension performance. But other than that for a daily driver, poly bushings are stupid. They make the car ride like a rock, no joke.
E30Source Depends on what you like. I'm using Powerflex Black poly race bushes and yes, you feel every little hole and bump, but I'll never have to change them again and the car feels solid as can be in the corners. 324td touring ^^
E30Source as positive as you are i just attempted to do the timing belt ive been on it for 4 hours messing around with my seized harmonic balancer bolts, im stuck!! so im gna leave atleast a couple days for this job!!