That's Matt. Great video again. I run a volt metre full time so I can pick up a faulty stator before it becomes a breakdown. Something leant from past experience. Love your vids on the 310.
Buy a 120V AC input to 0 to 118V AC out. 15 A variable voltage controller 3 phase. This will simulate the bike's stator. It has a dial. Use the multimeter to verify that you don't apply more than 80V AC. Move the dial from 27 V to 80 V AC. The rectifier/stabilizer shall maintain a semi stable output of 14.5V DC at the battery terminal. If it does then it's good.
Hey Matt, What’s up. Would you mind to make a video on the water pump seal issues and it’s replacement on G310 R?! And thank you for your videos, they are so helpful. Thank you for your time
Thanks for the video. What if the battery is bad to start with but also doesn't charge when the engine is running? Is it not charging because it's bad to start with or is there also a fault with the stator and/or rectifier?
Great videos Matt! I Would like to know if the 310R and the 310GS are very much the same engine? So the issues with the charging system on the 310R are also on the GS? Your answer will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for showing all of this diagnostic procedure!!! I'll keep this video link in a list, for future reference! BTW: Is there any "OBD2" access point on this bike?!... If so, perhaps you could do a short video about that.
My 15A fuse that controls the headlight, running, and brake lights keeps blowing. The only modifications that I have done were replacing the stock horn and battery. What could be the problem?
Ride the shit out of it. Wipe it down when it looks dirty. Adjust the chain a couple of times when it’s needed. On the third year of ownership, replace it. No need to lube it. There’s a sealed o-ring already on the chain. Lubing it is a waste of time.
Hi looking for some advice, I have a battery charging problem with my bike. There's no DC voltage coming back to the battery. The Stator/dynamo is giving out good AC voltage and I have 14.5 DC voltage coming from the rectifier, but nothing at the battery. I have tried a different battery with the same results. Have anyone else had these issues? Or am I missing something?
It’s a little bit high but it should be ok. The only time it would be an issue is if it was cooking the battery or causing electronic components to fail
@@MattsMotoWoRX It is not good unfortunately. One shall look for another regulator soon. Higher voltage will damage battery or at least shorten its service life. It is worth to check battery first, ensure meter is showing correct voltage if one is not sure. Easiest verification is to download battery manual and check what is max. charging voltage they recommend. They usually say 14,7 V for AGM type batteries for temperatures around 20C. It may also indicate problem with battery itself, means battery may not last long particularly in hot climates. 14.8V or more is good for low temperature charging around 0C. Battery internal resistance tester, capacity tester sometime load tester most likely will indicate bad battery. New battery may not fail right away for a year or so, but service life can be less than 2Y easily. Thanks for very good film about checking charging system of BMW 310!
I wouldn’t be too concerned yet. 14.8 is a little on the high side but as long as it isn’t going above that I would say the bike is ok. Just keep an eye on it.
@@MattsMotoWoRX my battery was down this morning on g310r and i went to the work shop and charge it then and it was like around 14.88 or something and i went in the showroom and they said its fine
