BMW S85 V10 Excessive Oil Consumption! 

Oil cooler leak very common on these cars. 1L per 1000 miles is a reasonable amount. That’s cool you daily drive your M5, gotta love that tunnel/underpass noise 🎼 👍

Cheers Eddie

They are good engine when look after properly, that run incredibly strong! That’s cool you daily your M5 😎

@@MTechGuy oh absolute and ya got her at 31k miles, definitely one of the most reliable car I've ever owned, 3+ years basically no problems

Same here on oil but make sure that Clutch hydraulic unit harness is well insulated if you got an SMG. Otherwise its going to fry. MLRENG sells repair kit or unit if needed.

I love the M5 more the longer I own it!

@@MTechGuy so true..

Thanks for sharing Alvaro, 1 quart per 4,000 miles fairly typical

Agreed, although part of ownership of these cars, the electronic dipstick does suck! It wouldn’t be so bad if it was actually accurate, but it lies and you never know where you are with it for 100% certainty. It does seem to stabilise over a few miles, but for something so important it’s ridiculous

My M5 came from Japan, they certainly know how to look after their cars! You’ll never know what condition the rod bearing are without pulling them out. 100,000 km’s is a good time to do the rod bearings (mine where done about then) also VANOS HP line & inspect the VANOS pump- spend the money now and have no worries for many years to come 😊

@@MTechGuy thanks for the reply. I will replace them as soon as possible.

Good plan 👍

Did you run the two necessary learning programs with ISTA? I think that’s a necessity with a new Smg clutch. There a Smg clutch replacement video out there from Reddish Motorsports. It shows proper Smg clutch replacement procedures start to finish.

Did you fit a new throw out bearing with the new clutch? Did the adaptions pass for the clutch curve teach in & shift solenoid cycle prior to the slip point error? Sometime a bad slave cylinder, release fork, or pivot ball pin can cause adaption issues. Make sure all your connectors are seated correctly too! this can catch some folk out after refitting the gearbox

@@MTechGuy I will check. All great questions I don’t have the answer for. The tech leaning towards wires contacting each another that needed to be repaired but didn’t get anything back since that last discussion. 3rd time trans has been out. I would assume if car moving in gear like a automatic clutch is engaged which have to due with the installation. Again hes getting trans input reading matching engine rpm after install of those parts car in gear at idle. Thank you for getting back I will follow up next week.

All fix wiring from smg harness contacting together

@@digitalrealestate7712 Good find! This problem seems to be getting more and more common with these cars age. Cheers for the follow up 👍

I would start with the PCV valves

@@MTechGuy i have ordered them. And what else?

Not uncommon!

@@MTechGuy i love this car so much. My only issue is a "brake vacuum pump code" I believe its the brake vacuum pump relay. I get a reduced power situation but can turn off the car and the code goes away. I've replaced the booster, vacuum pump and sensor. Still working on it.

Have you visually confirmed the vacuum pump is running when required? Check fuse 23, and check the brake vacuum pump relay under the passenger side dash. The relays can get lazy after a number of years/miles

@@MTechGuy I need to figure out the dash removal. Pump seems to run. Funny thing. If I steadily pump the brake while I start the car, I do not get the code. If I don't pump the brake I will get the code. Odd

Get someone to press the brake multiple time while you visually inspect the pump motor confirming that it turns on by sound, or feel it vibrate