Bondtech Stainless Steel Heat-break for Prusa Mini: why is it better?

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Here is my technical breakdown of the Bondtech heatbreak compared to the Original Prusa one.
Chapters:
0:00 Intro
1:17 Assembly & testing
5:30 Design Comparison
9:00 Conclusions
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Опубликовано:

8 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 68

@FilamentFriday 3 года назад

Great explanation on the heat break.

@AMakeDesigns 3 года назад

Thanks!! It means a whole lot!! 🤙

@MarcdeBruijn 3 года назад

Great video- They did make it clear in the instructions that you need thermal paste, but I missed it at first also, and had to stop my upgrade until I could get some paste. It would be nice (even if they make it a little more expensive) to include a small thing of thermal paste in the package. I also like your comment about including extra PTFE tube- or possibly boring the hole in the hot end with a flat end mill.

@AMakeDesigns 3 года назад

Thanks mate!

@Shabazza84 3 года назад

Btw, Bondtech does ship the thermal brake with thermal grease now.

@AMakeDesigns 3 года назад

Good to know! Maybe they watched my video 😜

@gaudio88 3 года назад

Thanks for all the details. I was super engaged while you where explaining the three different heat breaks.

@AMakeDesigns 3 года назад

Thanks Giacomo! I greatly appreciate

@danielhastings3167 3 года назад

Excellent video! This answers a lot of questions I had about heat breaks. Thanks for sharing this.

@AMakeDesigns 3 года назад

Glad it was helpful!

@quakindustries 2 года назад

Good Parts & Great Video !!!

@joebroderi 2 года назад

Great video, well done. I have had nothing but blockages with my "genuine" Prusa mini when printing with PLA or PLA+. So I am about to upgrade to the Bondtech heartbreak and pray that it sorts out the problem with blockages when printing PLA. So, watch this space ....!

@AMakeDesigns 2 года назад

Is your exuder idler well set? That was causing me some headaches

@joebroderi 2 года назад

@@AMakeDesigns Yes, it's fine, well tuned. It just gets blocked with PLA, so definitely heat-creep. Bondtech heatbreak hopefully will sort it. Nothing wrong with single cog Prusa extruder, in fact it makes for better prints than when using dual cog extruder, see Mihai Designs explanation on this, the guy is a genius. mihaidesigns.com He has a RU-vid channel also. I am using his Pitstop extruder on my MK3S+ and it works beautifully. Not one blockage, ever !

@AMakeDesigns 2 года назад

I have seen it but I'm not too convinced. I don't see the artifacts he is complaining about, but I don't have a MK3S

@dalerogers1134 2 года назад

Good job! Thank you.

@dingdingdingdiiiiing 3 года назад

Excellent explanation! And not to be unappreciative or anything, but I am missing the part explaining what advantage the Bondtech heat break offers practically - why would I want/need to change the original Prusa heatbreak in the first place.

@AMakeDesigns 3 года назад

Practically I didn't find any real difference, but I'm printing mostly basic filaments. The mini is already capable of high temps, but I have seen people struggle with heat creep. If you have heat creep issues or printing a lot of high temp filaments I would look into that since the price is quite low.

@joeking433 2 года назад

I got a spare ptfe tube with my Prusa mini.

@3DPI67 2 года назад

Thanks, love the explanations! sub How do you have the CAD models?

@chloemccarthy2297 2 года назад

Ironically found your review on the shop page; this definitely helped though! I'm new to 3D printing so always have a fear of getting scammed into buying cheap parts

@dleivam 3 года назад

Awesome

@toddzino58 2 года назад

FYI, FYSETC is now shipping the mini clone with a bondtech style heatbreak. Seems to work much better thank the one you got with yours.

@AMakeDesigns 2 года назад

Good to know!

@Spectt84 3 года назад

Nice! Is there a video comparing "real world" benefits of using ALL the bondtech upgrades together vs. stock prusa parts? Maybe if your not able to see the benefits on an actual print, maybe just an explanation of WHAT you should expect to be better and why for us "NOOBS"... For example, I clearly see that the bondtechs heat break works better... But what can you expect from that upgrade? Also, the extruder. I would love to see an improved part where the stock part would have been less adequate... Im sorry. I just love "upgrades". I upgrade everything I can... my cars, my computers, my drones...hopefully my 3d printer. 👍

@AMakeDesigns 3 года назад

I have "a feeling" that the new heartbreak works better, but I cannot state it with facts. I have seen other videos of people claiming it improved quality but mainly because it was solving a problem (heat creep, I assume). The data shows it does a better job of improving the insulation. Finally I don't think I would have done it if I didn't need a new heat break for my clone. My Prusa hot end worked fine from the factory. On the other hand I really enjoyed the extruder upgrade (check the video out 😉)

@zommy5re77 3 года назад

great review, however the genuine prusa heatbreak is actually rated for 280c, not 245, as the ptfe does not reach the meltzone, so only reaches around 160c when in use

@AMakeDesigns 3 года назад

You are right! I actually reviewed the spec later but the video was already done. Thanks for clarifying

@oleurgast730 3 года назад

Actually all to get the special cut at the end of the PTGE tube to fit perfectly into the champfer is a spectial cutting tool also known as "pencil sharpener" :-) As on my experience filament often get stuck at the fittings there the 3 parts of the bowden (inside the hotend, between hotend and feeder and inside the feeder) are conected, I changed the fiting on my original prusa to normal pushtrough pneumatic couplers. So instead of 3 parts of tube I now have only one. It also helps if I use filament with not perfect diameter. I sometimes get filament wich is not perfect - but I do not want to throw it away as it might be usable for tests anyway. I use a tube with 2.0mm inside diameter there. But on highly precise filament like prusament, extrudr or sunlu I prefer an inside diameter of 1.9mm (like Capricon) due to the more precice feeding. To change the tube is a task of only 2 minutes...

@AwestrikeFearofGods Год назад

It's not easy to find 118° pencil sharpeners. If the PTFE chamfer angle is too small a length would be unsupported.

@oleurgast730 Год назад

@@AwestrikeFearofGods I nether had problems with using a pencil sharpener. Actually the biggest problem isn't the heatbreak at all, but the coldend fan trottled down to 38% by firmware. After changing the coldend fan to a Noctua at 100% speed, no heatcreep ocured anymore, even with original heatbreak. On older buddyboard GND is PWM controlled, so just to connect GND pin to permanent ground. Newer Buddy controlls 5V pin, so firmware editing or extra stepdown is required. Actually I am about to upgrade my minis to Revo+TBG-lite anyway.

@BalloonSchool 2 года назад

"Conductive Paste" - which one you would recommend and where to buy it? You are talking about a thermal paste, right?

@Zwettekop 3 года назад

Have you heard of the Brozzl heatbreak upgrade for the Prusa Mini+ Original? It looks like the Bondtech heatbreak but it's made out of Titanium which is less thermally conductive. I wonder if it's noticeably better or not.

@AMakeDesigns 3 года назад

Never heard of it. I will look it up!

@hvddrift 2 года назад

Question for you. At the 3:25 mark you said to remove the nozzle and heat-break "you need to heat it up." Why do you need to heat it? and at what temperature did you heat it?

@AMakeDesigns 2 года назад

The plastic works as a glue and sticks the heatbreak to the heat block. 180-200 is more than enough, I guess 150 can work too. I handle them with pliers anyway. Be careful!

@hillfortherstudios2757 3 года назад

I would argue that you didn't follow your own advice of "if it works, don't touch it" when instead of getting a second mini, you made a clone! :) thanks for the video!

@AMakeDesigns 3 года назад

Do as I say, not as I do! 😀 😜

@olorf 3 года назад

Subscribed :)

@AMakeDesigns 3 года назад

TX mate

@olorf 3 года назад

@@AMakeDesigns well thanks for your nice review. I'm happy it works for so many :)

@josephwilliamcosta 2 года назад

is a particular hair color better than another on insulating?

@AMakeDesigns 2 года назад

Blond is cooler 😜

@thebigk251 2 года назад

Have you seen any issues printing Silk PLA? I upgraded my extruder and heatbreak to bondtech at the same time, and now I can’t print silk, but I can print basic PLA.

@AMakeDesigns 2 года назад

I'm using silk quite regularly with no issues. Maybe it's a PID problem

@JONYghost 3 года назад

Specs or link to the thermal cam?

@AMakeDesigns 3 года назад

Here is the affiliate link (Note: Commissions may be earned from the links below) IR Camera attachment for iPhone (USA): amzn.to/3s1bZi8 It's quite expensive but worth the price if you can make a professional use of it.

3 года назад

Ciao! Ho assemblato una Prusa mini clone ed ho installato un hetabreak bondtech. Stampando ho notato che l’estrusore fa uno strano rumore ed effettivamente la ruota dentata nelle estrusioni veloci salta. Può essere che il problema sia il non aver accorciato il tubo PTFE azzurro della lunghezza aggiunta dal tubo PTFE di bondtech? Ps. Bei video! Continua così

@AMakeDesigns 3 года назад

Ciao Angelo! Direi di no. È più probabile che sia o la temperatura o il serraggio della vite dell'estrusore. Il setting è abbastanza delicato, se tiri troppo il filamento di ovalizza e stringe nel tubo di teflon.

@MacBaerFFM 3 года назад

So, based on your conclusions, one could say the Bondtech heatbreak allows to print materials that demand higher temperatures while retaining the ability to print PLA or flex?

@AMakeDesigns 3 года назад

I think it will safely print higher temps, but I did not test the original one with high temp so I cannot say if it is possible with the original. To print Flex I had to upgrade the extruder though. No way i could print flexi with the original one

@leeratliff7588 3 года назад

@@AMakeDesigns I’ve had great success printing flex on my stock Prusa Mini. I’ve used SainSmart 95a TPU and it prints like a champ.

@AMakeDesigns 3 года назад

Good for you! I had a lot of issues with the gap between the extruder wheel and the exit hole. I installed a bondtech extruder and all of it went away

@The0nionKnight 3 года назад

Correct. I print NylonG all day long at 250 with the bondtech heatbreak on my mini.

@cristianopersi7953 3 года назад

There are tool for making the champfer your own!

@valerioturrini9414 3 года назад

I own a clone, let me tell You that the massive filament leakage You have on Your clone (if You care about it) is due to the clone heatblock which is bigger than original heatbreack so You cannot get the hotend properly assembled, no way. I installed a bondtech heatbreak clone from trianglelab with a little thermal paste, I have to say this made a huge improvement in print quality, no more oozing, leakage, stringing, since last hotend rebuilding done 6 weeks ago. I recompiled the firmware increasing the hotend fan speed from 3000rpm to 4200 rpm to align it to the fan speed achieved on original mini, I think this also helped on avoiding oozing. I don't know if on a original mini it is an improvement, several reported lower print quality especially on using prusament filament. Instead it's definitely an improvement for clone owners. highly recommended if not mandatory.

@valerioturrini9414 3 года назад

sorry in the first sentence I meant original heatblock, not original heatbreak. Anyway nice video, interesting as usual.

@AMakeDesigns 3 года назад

Very clear! I did not notice the leak until I shot the video. Let's see how it goes with the Prusa heartbreak 😉

@lusiada6787 3 года назад

Hi Valerio, the last time I was on Ali express I ordered the same heatbreak from Trianglelabs, but until now I have not installed as there is little info on how to install it. I have the Fysetc Mini clone and the heartbreak that came with the clone, I must say it prints quite good and no issues, but I want to be able to print with higher temps and therefore the new heatbreak. What did you have to do to instal it properly, the PTFE insert for example, I have read that for the one form triangle labs is as to be 3mm longer then the one from Bondtech. Did you cut this PTFE yourself if you used a jig do you mind sharing which? Did you use a similar PTFE as what came with the mini clone? For example the leftover part? The couplings, the ones that came with the mini clone differ from the ones used with the bondtech and prusa heatbreak, for that one it needs to be in such a way that it contains the PTFE insert in the heatbreak, I believe the coupling that comes with the clone does not as it is designed to hold the PTFE tube that comes from the extruder and goes down to the nozzle. what did you do with the existing PTFE tube, that one will be longer if it does not go down into the heatbreak, or did you cut the part of and used it for the insert? anyway, I ma planning on buying these extra parts to make sure everything goes OK, especially the heatblock as the one that comes with the clone blocks the airflow of the standard fanduct (I moved the fan to the from=nt and now my bridges are perfect!). nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001414256208.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.60a43c00W3QhYJ&mp=1 nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001405577637.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.60a43c00W3QhYJ&mp=1 And this is the heatbreak I bought and want to install once I have everything sorted out. nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001689822459.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.36824c4dOQL1Uf I hope you have the time to share.

@shaker2321 3 года назад

I'm having a lot of problems with the extruder and the hotend of the Fysetech prusa mini clone, I' currently testing a BMG extruder but still having jammed filament on the extruder. But I think the hotend is not good enought and is causing jams on the extruder or is causing clogs in the nozzle . Do you think it could be possible to install E3D or mosquito hotend?

@AMakeDesigns 3 года назад

I doubt. They might be heavy. Why not the Bondtech?

@toddzino58 2 года назад

Several people have installed the E3D V6 hotend. I have one in the way, but with the proper style heatbreak, really isn’t needed , at least for PLA and PETG. The clones are now shipping with a much better heatbreak.