These engines are on everything; Tillers, Pressure Washers, Snow Blowers, Generators, Blowers, Wood Chippers, Yard Equipment, and Commercial Equipment. Briggs and Stratton OHV engine
Thanks, great video - even 7 years later! You explained EXACTLY what I needed to know!!! I SPECIFICALLY APPREICATRED you taking the time to explain the jets, fuel flow, and airflow. That is very necessary to know where the fuel is being directed so that those passages are all clear. The copper wire was a GREAT IDEA; and the reason not to use anything rigid that could bore the size of the passages. Also, checking the float by blowing through the fuel intake port was another EXCELLENT tip. The time that you took to video and upload this saved me $$$'s for small engine repair. Actually, you saved my neighbor the $$$'s, it was only my time and I learned something new today. Yes, it's my neighbors garden tiller. She was recently widowed so I did not want someone taking advantage of her at a small engine repair shop. I will probably have many more fixes for her in the future, but that is perfectly fine with me. She is a sweet lady struggling through a very difficult time. So, I am glad to help her and grateful for RU-vid videos such as this to walk me through the steps necessary to help her save $$$'s. I hope that RU-vid is providing you with the $$$'s you save your viewers. Thanks again. Keep making GREAT VIDEOS!!!
Great video man. I bought a Troy Bilt Rototiller that was 8 years old that looks brand new. Nearly ripped my shoulder out trying to start it. Cleaned the carb like you did and it is purring like a kitten. One pull just like yours. Made my day.
I'm with David below. Thanks for taking the time to make this video. You explained it VERY well. I appreciate the "extra" commentary on how the circuits flow. Heading out to tackle mine now.
Smashing tutorial, as allways :-) Im supprised how just a tiny spec of dirt causes trouble, ive cleaned motorbike carbs in the past and some just dont seem dirty at all, but once cleaned they work!! Every engine should have a fine fuel filter, that was my thought. Yep i have used copper wire strands for 20 years and it never caused me any problem at all :-)
Really good vid.... Using copper wire to not auger out orifices great idea... Also warning about swelling plastic/rubber with carb cleaner. Really well done.
I've got one of these same engines that I took off of a pressure washer I pulled out of a dumpster and I put it on a 1955 Simplicity Model FA two-wheeled walking tractor. One of the best small engines I've ever had, lol for real
I don't leave comments very often. I've been having trouble with my snow blower for quite a while not idling unless it was on half choke (and then it's power goes to about zero under load). I tried spraying out the carb (with it still on the motor) with sea foam and everything else. After giving up on being about to tell how to remove the jets, thinking that was the only way to do it right I ordered a new carb. I just saw this, tried your way and followed it step by step. Just used it for two hours - THE THING RUNS LIKE NEW! I guess I'll see if I can return the carb. Thanks, it wasn't too hard and I was able to use it today when I needed it.
It is great. My father kept telling me to take it to a repair shop, don't do it yourself....I used it for 6 hours straight yesterday on a huge job and it ran perfectly. I so appreciate people such as yourself that take the time to make a video that can help so many.
Thanks for the video, I need to try this out. Many times I don't use an engine for 6 months or longer and have to take the engine to the shop to clean it up because of the gas sitting in the engine and will not start. Thank You.
I have this exact motor on a lawn mower trailer for a leaf vacuum setup, it ran great for 5 mins yesterday then just shut off. Can’t seem to figure out why I doesn’t wanna fire back up
Great video. I got the same motor on a craftsman tiller. I cleaned the as per your video. Put it all together. But it won't start unless I use carb cleaner. Starts right up and runs. But the minute I move the thoddle control to fast it dies and will not start until I use carb cleaner again. Help please.
This sounds like an air passage and or main jet problem. The air passages at the mouth/intake of the carb need to pass carb cleaner freely down to the main jet.
I have an old tiller from the late 90's it has Briggs and stratton 13 series motor,it's worked like a charm for years,but now when I move the lever into the run position from choke it dies out,it will run for a while on choke..do you have any idea what's causing this thanks..
I have a crafstman tiller with a similar (maybe slightly newer) engine. Running very rough, seems like it's very rich (black smoke, won't build RPM's even at high throttle) When I pulled apart the carb there was a small brass plug/jet loose in the bowl. Any idea where it may go? There is two jets alright in the middle tube, so it seems like the only place it might go is in the angled port in the bottom bowl portion of the carb body, but it's a little loose and falls our fairly easily. Would it missing cause the carb to run rich (I don't see any plug in your carb in this video?). All other jets/channels seem open after spraying with carb cleaner. Thanks!
That sucks... Not much you can do with it that I can think of. You can try to get a used/new crank off Ebay or sell it. To get top dollar you should Ebay it complete or at least ebay some parts off of it (carb, coil, gas tank, recoil start etc.
Excellent video, right to the point with no unnecessary information, it just so happens I have the exact same rototiller and it used to start on the first pull every time for 15 years.Then one spring all the pulling and it wouldn't start so I took it to a small engine guy who fixed the problem. Now two years later and its doing the same thing, do you think he did a poor job and I should follow your video to clean the carb or maybe its something else? By the way I only use gas with no ethanol in the rototiller so I'm confused as to why it won't start and its only been two years. Thanks for any help.
The gas these days is horrid. Ethanol free is the best way to go but will still give you issues with long term storage. E10 has a shelf life of maybe 1-2 months vs E-free that will go 5-6months (without added stabilizer). Best thing you can do is run the machine 100% out of fuel and store it empty. You are going to have to clean the carb again and nearly every year if gas is left in them.
@@sixtyfiveford thanks for the answer, would you recommend that I clean the carb like you do in this video? Now that I'm retired and Spring is a few months away I would like to try it.
Great video. Thanks for making it. I cleaned the carb twice exactly as you showed, put in new plug and fuel line, and engine still sputters on full run. It will only idle smoothly on half choke. The main jet is clear. Is there anything else that could be causing the problem?
Make sure that you resembled it correctly! That's half the job and the smaller the part "usually" more easily forgotten. Also make sure your needle valve is opened up all the way and that its not worn because it could allow fuel to bypass. Check spark plug and gap---Perhaps replace...?
I have one on a wood chipper that I believe has lost the throttle control linkage. The control/slide directly under the gas tank no longer has any effect. Do you have a video showing the proper connections for this? Thanks in advance!
It hooks to the governor arm. That spring takes any slop out of the rod running from the throttle butterfly to the governor arm. It generally wraps around the governor rod with the rod running through it.
I have the same problem on pressure washer , and wood chipper , tiller i clean the carbuteror 3 times and stil not working the i need to remplase the needo ,seat
my briggs 15c107 snow engine has surge with choke off , if choke on 1/2 way runs fine rebuild carb 5 x same problem i think i might have to drill out jet
The idle circuit is the culprit for a surging engine. It can be the idle air bleed at the mouth of the carb, the idle fuel pickup from the bowl, or the idle jet.
the jet is Clear and the Emulsion tube and holes all CLear i think its inside the Carb where the welch plug is i even soaked the Carb in CLR and also Ultrasonic Cleaned in 70% water 28%vinegar 2%detergent soap @40c still the same . Going to Try MECHANIC in a BOTTLE !!!!!!!!!!
So I got one of these and the throttle assembly seems to be missing something/ not working for some reason. I'm not sure if the previous owner messed with it or not. Could you possible show me the throttle set up/ help me find a diagram hah..
All of the linkages are set up under the fuel tank. There are a few variations of this and some allow you to have speed control while others are fixed speed for generator applications.
I just watched this again, we used to have a good shop to get carb kits but they closed down, where would you recommend getting carb kits/parts from? Thanks.
Superiorpowerwash The cheapest place for a person that just needs 1 or 2 things at a time is Ebay. There are a few decent online parts retailers but unless you're ordering a several things the shipping makes them cost more to go through them.
hi 65 foord have this problem on a honda gx240 8hp cant get it to run properly have stripped the carb loads of times changed carbs from another engine ticks over lovely clean old carb again didnt use carb cleaner just an airline H E L P
Carb cleaner will dissolve varnish and old gas in the tiny holes. It will also allow you to visually see that a passage/jet is clean. If it is surging then the idle passage is dirty. If it will only run on choke then the main jet is clogged. If it will not fire at all then we need to look at spark. This is the video for your carb ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-n_eTqL0C3gQ.html
must get a can of that next day im out its not the plug as changed carbs and runs sweet its just thats its not ticking over sweet on idle revs up perfect will get carb cleaner and up date results ta again Ben
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It could also be a coil going bad. Once it reaches a certain temp, hot, it dies and your engine cuts out. Check and see if you still have spark right after it dies. If you don't then you know the coil has gone bad.
