Hey I just got a 64 C10 and am going this route immediately. So informative and helpful. My first project truck and am getting rid of the 3on the tree . You saved me a lot of stress 🤙🏻
@@deansworld2591 not sure, was a swap meet find but 83-87 have mechanical speedos, 88-92 have electric. All will work, just the Speedo to contend with if it bothers you. I just use an Amazon GPS for $30
A guy in Montana I know put one in a. 1950 Chevy sedan with a 216. The motor was in good shape but was out of beans at 55. He swapped in this transmission and a S10 rear with a 323 ratio. He said it cruised at 80 no sweat.
Great video! Only questions I have are, why did you need to swap the input shaft, and also how did you determine why and how much you needed to shorten the shaft and the collar?
The length of the input shaft needs to match the set up I was using which was the bellhousing from a 3 or 4 speed Saginaw, SM420 etc which has a shorter input shaft than what I bought. Same splines though so I can reuse my clutch. Same deal as the collar. Just matches original.
I love dogs but that yapping would make me crazy. The flat bearing you didn't know the name of in the input shaft was a thrust bearing that takes ➡️⬅️ type forces
Is there a specific reason you swapped to the 10 spline? I was under the impression you can also use a clutch for a Astro van with a 4.3 liter, it uses a 11 inch disc with 14 spine and 1 inch diameter shaft, lop a quarter inch off the pilot bearing part of the shaft and shorten the release bearing collar an inch, I spose you would have more clutch choices going 10 spline, but at 300 hp would it really matter? Great video, good information thank you.
Good question, typically I use them in place of an existing transmission. For example maybe a 66 C10 with an in-line six, 3 speed Muncie M18, or maybe a 4 speed, just easier reusing all the existing stuff and you can still simply order the “correct” stuff for your vehicle (clutch, flywheel, throw out beating, pilot bushing, etc). Maybe I’ll try the Astro Van angle on the next one, I’ve been having a few people ask, maybe that’ll be next!
Jody , Some flywheel / pressure plate combos (153 tooth) use 10-3/8 or 10-1/2 inch disks, those are harder to find in 14 spline , i think thats the main reason,,, the 11" disc u mention is that with a 168 tooth flywheel ? cause i think ta run 11-12" disk ya need tha bigger flywheel ?
im just a shadetree mechanic, not mechanical mathemagiciianal, so what does the ,72 or .86 overdrive ratio of the T5 reduce a 4.56 rear gear ratio to about? is it just straight multiplication 0.86 x 4.56 =3.92 equivalent rear gear? or if its .72 OD then .72x4.56=3.28 new efective reear gear? or is the math more complicated than that?
Instead of your final drive being 1:1 which is the norm for 3 or 4 speeds it would move you to say .72. So instead of rolling at say 60 mph, 3500 rpm, you could do the math at .72 x 3500 and you’ll see you now roll down the highway at 2520 going the same speed.
I have a 1965 C20 283 with the original 4.56 rear end . Trying to find a rear end swap that is budget friendly has been discouraging. This T5 installation seems to be promising compared to a different rear end? When you put this T5 in your C10 take us along for the viewing. Thanks
@@maggs131 My research is showing that in order to go with those options I have two put a complete rear axle assembly in my truck. That’s a cost I didn’t want to incur.
What kind of throw out bearing did you install? I have a 88 S10 that came with a T5 and iron duke and it’s locked up. Found a Chevy 4.3 that takes the same bell housing as a SBC and want to use the T5. It already has hydraulic clutch set up in the truck.
lugnutz65chevystepside.weebly.com/t5-info-page.html Great information here. Way more than I can type out in a comment, videos, pics and resources are fantastic. Copy and paste that, you can thank me later. Cheers!
I would love to do this for my 1966 C10. The only problem is that I can't find a T5 locally. I did find a 80s S15 4x4 with a 5 speed. It's got hornets nests underneath it, so I can't look under to see how the tailhousing works. Can the t-case simply be removed and the housing reinstalled?
Not too sure but I don’t believe that works, I’ve always found the 2WD variety. The cheat code for finding one is a wanted ad, marketplace, Kijiji, Craigslist, S10 groups. They are out there and they are cheap.
@@shortcutgarage Thank you for your quick reply! I'll keep looking. Ever heard of someone doing a 4L80E with a TCU behind a L6? Might be my other option.
Hey I have a 1967 C10 and I am trying to put a T5 in it and I'm having some trouble is there a way we can talk and with your knowledge of doing this and my problem maybe we can get me up and running Thank You In advance
Okay I sent you a crazy long message on your Facebook messenger SO SORRY it's as long as it is just wanted you to know exactly what I am dealing with . I decided to message and get your advice because your video makes more screens than anyone else .
You’ll need to swap to a V6 bellhousing, east enough to find I would think. Everyone leaves them behind at the wreckers when pulling the T5 for inline six and V8 applications
I'm with Russia. I have a Chevy Blazer s 10 v 6 2.8 l 1986.)) I really need such a shaft on my car. I would be grateful if you could tell me where you can buy it. Thanks
Hi friend. I'm subscribed to your channel. Please tell me where you bought this shaft. In which store.? If it's not difficult for you, send me a link to this part of the shaft. Thanks.
1351-085-008, T1104-16R, 83500975, 1135085008, all the input shaft interchange numbers. These I get from eBay but show up on Amazon too. Timken 48548 is the bearing part number on Amazon
Hi Steve, I’m not sure but now that I have a K series truck I’m likely to find out. I have this 5 speed so I think I’m going to toss it at the K10 I have. Stay tuned and we’ll find out together
Input shaft was changed to match the clutch. Here’s all the part numbers. 1351-085-008, T1104-16R, 83500975, 1135085008, all the input shaft interchange numbers. These I get from eBay but show up on Amazon too. Timken 48548 is the bearing part number on Amazon
1351-085-008, T1104-16R, 83500975, 1135085008, all the input shaft interchange numbers. These I get from eBay but show up on Amazon too. Timken 48548 is the bearing part number on Amazon
@@shortcutgarage I have another question. You said about needing a special u-joint... well since the drive shaft needs to be shortened couldn't the end of s10 drive shaft be welded on to accommodate the new slip yoke ? That way all youd need is a ordinary s10 u-joint
@@maggs131 I did use an S10 driveshaft last time, it’s the end that goes to the rear end that needed the special u joint. The S10 driveshaft didn’t even need to be cut, just a unjoint swap
'64 C 10, 3 speed Muncie...putting in the S10 T5., behind a fresh 283.. how does the transmission mount at tail shaft to cross member? any modification needed?
Just like the Muncie, there is no mounting the tail shaft, not necessary. Some guys do modify an S-10 mount but I don’t think it’s necessary unless you have a ton of torque. In which case there are better choices for a transmission to stand up to that torque. So short answer, there is no need for it. The bellhousing is mounted to the cross membership. Transmission is bolted to the bellhousing. It’s enough.
