I bought this unit in 2010. I put 125K miles on it and sent it back for a rebuild because I was putting a new engine in my daily driver 2003 S10. When they opened up the transmission the guys were asking why it came back because it looked as if it had less than 50K miles on it. PerformaBuilt put all their latest updates in for the Level 2. Now I throw a 450HP Procharger 4.3 V6 at it all day long and it never gives. These transmission are bullet proof. Great Job Ryan... It is easy watching your videos, and informative.
Wow. I can't quite articulate just how impressed I am with this video. Every aspect of your post is uber amazing to me. The QUALITY of the recording, the clean camera angles, the QUALITY information, the pace of the video, the QUALITY of the work being done, the audio, etc... I mean really. This sets the bar quite high guys. Thank you for all of your hard work, and the amazing wealth of QUALITY accurate information.
I do appreciate the reply and the videos are great. Having had several apart and back together (no where even close to where you are) I was able to pick up some helpful tips. The talk about the importance of a clean unrestricted filter makes a ton of sense and it’s something I never really considered. Also your method and focus on the pump alignment is something I look forward to trying. Thank you for your time.
awesome video, awesome content...really well presented and your product also is awesome. I recently blew up my 4l60e and have been researching for some basic knowledge. Pat on your back for your generosity in sharing !!
Finally installed my Heavy Hauler last week in my '07 Silverado 1500 4x4. Thing is real nice! Can really feel 3rd and 4th shift now, unlike the stock one. I found alot of clutch material in my pan of the stock one! Didn't expect that with how fast my 3rd gear failed. Guess she had been slipping longer than I thought! The torque converter is real nice, too. I've left rubber accidentally a few times, where the stock one you really had to work at it (beat on it) to make that happen.The Tru-Cool cooler I'm using made a huge difference as well - hottest I've seen so far in this winter weather is 130° only briefly - likes to stay in the hundred teens and twenties. Haven't towed with it yet, but I have no doubt she'll perform beautifully. THANKS for taking pride in your work!! 👍😎
Thank you for the kind words!. Just remember to change your fluid and deep filter after 1000 miles for break in and once a year is what i recommend after and it will last many many years. The filter is more important than the fluid.
This is a very DETAILED video, amongst the MOST DETAILED 4L60e videos I have ever seen. I believed I could rebuild one before this video, but after seeing this I KNOW I COULD DO THIS!!!!!!!!!! But I think I will just order a a PerformaBilt 4L80 level 3 Black Edition for my 12v Cummins swap in my 88 2500 GMC
I love it I’m sold!! Had a great phone conversation about my build we are almost there, ready to start Olaf again with his new turbo setup 😎 & one of these bad transmission with a boss hog converter like you said 💪🏽
🤣🤣🤣 If you're one of those guys who looses 10mm sockets you might wanna stock up... loved that and the video I'm in the middle of my first build on my 95 Burban 4x4 I hope it turns out well lol .... The more video's I watch the more little tricks I learned...
Except he totally mis explains what they are for, they are NOTHING to do with centrifugal force, they are to slow up that clutch pack to give the band time to release.
Just to prevent mis information the 2/ 3 and 3/4 overlap your describing purely comes from the how you do the hydraulics in the valvebody, clearances, and some tuning adjustments as well.
Nice video and thanks for taking the time to put it out there. I was worried for a second when you tightened the valve body down and went on to do the harness without tightening the five 8mm headed bolts. Obviously, you caught that. It’s hard when you’re not following your normal routine. I always hate when someone interrupts means I freely admit I have trouble walking and chewing gum at the same time. 🤣🤣
My Pbuilt lvl II and FTI 3k converter is awsome for LS1 . The best part was the note on the filter found on first fluid change that said " party too hard ?" 😂.
Just got done doing hci on corvette c5 with 4l60e that I had rebuilt at some trans shop after 3 4 fried 3 years ago. Trans still is OK but I think it will break with the new mods so will be looking to get one soon that will hopefully last life of car and this video is impressing me. If brian builds mine in video I'll be calling you guys
Nevertheless frictions always need to be soaked in trans fluid prior to assembly (as far as I know) while they in fact look bone dry here - seems this video is only for demonstration purposes (?)
LOL! I have resorted myself to watching you build a 4L60 nearly every time I am in the middle of one. I will likely grow out of this as my experience progresses but I find a certain amount of (zen???) when I watch the video first. I sure would enjoy building one or two together with a builder like you. I have for the most part taught myself (I never attended an official trans training course) to build with videos such as this and whatever books or paper work I could find. I’m sure I could pick up some valuable information. I see the Performabuilt name is really getting around, or at least I have noticed hearing it more often (no disrespect). Congratulations on that bc none of what I’m hearing is negative. Thanks for taking the time! ……..Rosco
Honestly really liked watching you build this transmission. I'll be looking into having y'all build my 4L60E for my S10 with 35" mud tires. Being built for daily driving and overlanding adventure camping. Y'all not located that far from me. I'm just near the pocono raceway. Berwick isn't that far.
Band clearance has more room for play as it should be a tad looser than the 3rd clutch clearance to help with band overlap. We have been doing it so long with so many 4l60s you sorta just know when its perfect after awhile!
For the pump alignment....I build the pump first. I finger tighten the bolts that hold the two pump halves together...I install the pump in the BARE case with no O-ring. I finger tighten the pump to case bolts. I run a long extension through the rear of the case where the output shaft goes and torque down the pump bolts!
You have to use an extension because you are slightly tightening the pump half bolts through the opening on the rear of the case where the output shaft is. The pump is installed as usual in an empty case because u are using the case pump bore for an alignment tool. Then you remove pump and use torque wrench for final torque.
I never have torn into an automatic transmission and really didn't even know what they entailed inside. Great job explaining things and breaking it down into sections. I just got a 97 Yukon 4wd with a bad 460LE, it is crunching and grinding by the output shaft and putting in in park does no good. I was curious what a transmission rebuild entailed and you have given me an idea of what it will involve. Thanks for the great video.
Thank you!! Your rear ring gear and rear planet are probably damaged along with the low roller sprag. Your looking at a whole rebuild with heavy cleaning.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions loved the video but the pump wasn't torqued. As a mechanics it's one of my only senses of security knowing I did my job to perfection.
You should change the low rev wave plate for a regular steel it hold the clutches applied while the band is engaging makes better shift and less wear on band and clutches
OK, correct me if I'm wrong but right from the start that clutch pack looked like it went in DRY for christs sake, not a drop of oil to be seen, I hope at least the fibres were pre soaked. I know you run them on a dyno first but those fibres will take a LONG time to get fully soaked even with no load.
Excellent presentation. Seems Sonnax gear is pretty good and robust. Just a question, do you do much mega strong 6L80E, maybe a Black Label level 4 that can support around 1,000hp. I know big torque is the trans killer. I am from Brisbane Australia. PS - that is one hell of a clean workshop, and case and parts, strangely enough that alone inspires confidence.
Yeh I've had my VE Commodore Calais V with 6L80E for 12 years now. 2 complete new trans when you could buy them ; and 2 upgrade rebuilds. Yup expensive exercises. Thanks anyway. I will be watching your videos as this one is excellent!!!
Hey, I like the video. I'm getting ready to rebuild my 4L65E out my 03' Yukon Denali. I had done it before 3 yrs ago. of course 3rd gear went out. the rebuild kit didn't have the proper thickness 3rd gear friction and steels to accommodate 7 friction. in a crunch I reused steel and used 6 which gave me (.058"). well it lasted 50k mile. In your video your using 8 frictions, is the forward drum a special build? Are Raybestos Z-pak good? or not necessary?
Our setup in the 3/4 is very unique and requires machining to get the desired results. We sometimes use 6 forward frictions but mostly 5. Raybestos Z paks are great for the average street vehicle, towers, and daily drivers.
Since watching this video (several times) I have been striving to get my 3/4 clearance between 0.020-0.025. I have only been doing this w/ a 6 friction pack and have had good results using only the thickest GM backing plate (I think it’s 0.230 ish). So far I haven’t had any complaints but I worry that bc I don’t know some of the things you guys have learned that I may eventually get into a situation. Not asking for any trade secrets here just an opinion. Next one I am considering using the Sonnax apply/backing and 7 frictions though. You think am pushing it running that snug w 6 frictions? I am not building for race cars. Mostly daily drivers, now and then a souped up truck.
I have a question I have a 2008 Chevrolet Silverado 4x4 work truck, when I engage the tow package when towing my trailor it starts to leak transmission fluid after about 10 miles of towing. When I disengage it, it quits leaking. What would be the cause and how can I fix it. Could using flex fuel be the cause?
See some of our other videos for that. Please keep in mind this is a brand new youtube and we havent come out with all of the content we would have liked to yet. So please subscribe and stay tuned
Do you guys sell this kit for people to install on there own? Building my truck and don’t have much funds at the moment and looking at opening my own shop one day so trying to learn what I can on my own rigs
Fascinating video, if have a question,do you pre soak the frictions. Other rebuilders do, is it necessary or not, Iam trying to understand automatic transmissions, great video
When you have a dyno it is not nessecary as you run it for an extended period of time with no load. If directly installing into a vehicle i would soak them as its a different enviorment.
What would you recommend for my 03 Suburban, that tows 7,000 lbs in the summer heat? The engine is stock. Just want to proactively get a built transmission before my stock one leaves me stranded.
Good Video, just curious if you've seen the Beast sunshells broken ? I'm a full time builder, been at it a long time, and I've seen 3 or 4 Beast shells, either broken at one of the lugs that engage the reverse drum, or the splined area twisted and broken. I've been using the later GM shot peened shells or the Sonnax Smart tec
We have but very very rarely. About 3 times ive seen it over my career. Ours were caused by failed differentials and that of course took the bottom end out in general. The only thing i can think of to cause a beast fail is a manufactuer fault or very high rpm applications where the smart shell balancing is key whereas the beast is not balanced as well as the smartshell.
any good high energy or borg friction will do. its more about pressure and cooling than friction material. You can find every friction ive ever used at any major retailer
Ryan amazing video, im no expert just a dyi most of the time but i need some advice. i have an 02 avalanche 4x4 z71 5.3 with a 4L60E. long story short, i bought the truck brand new of the chevy lot 0 miles, 2 months later the trans went out, the dealer replaced it under warranty and it has not given me any issues until now. i used my truck as my daily, used to haul years ago my 25 foot boat at least twice a month no issues. today my truck has a little over 200k and for the past 2 years i had installed a 6” lift 22x12 wheels 35” tires. well i guess my trans is getting tired, im active duty army so i move every 3 years and i have to haul a trailer when moving. since we do everything in a tight budget ive been thinking about a few options to rebuild the transmission. i have a local mechanic that would drop, rebuild and put back mine with unknown parts for $750 with 1 year warranty, sounds pretty good but i have some doubts, second option is get one from the local junk yard for less than $400 have it rebuilt with quality parts and swap with mine. i can tell that you take pride on you work and that is how ive been throughout my military career, what would you recommend me if you were in my situation. i know you background is more into racing but i just want something reliable that will last me 10 more years. i will appreciate your honest opinion. thank you
im a diy guy myself ive just rebuilt my 4l60e with special tools and parts ive spent 1400. My recommendation after doing this is have the guy rebuild it for 750 but buy a master kit that replaces all the common parts that wear out as long as your internal parts are good all you really need is to replace the parts that get worn. Just verify this guy has the special tools for this transmission and if he does youll know hes at least familiar with it. I really wanted to do it myself as a learning process ive gone through the entire engine so why not take on the project and learn. I had another vehicle to drive while i did the work on it, but if you dont have the time to research everything needed and time to invest into the project 750 is an absolute steal. i can say now that i have acquired the knowledge i wanted i dont think id rebuild another one myself. Very costly projects and if youre not planning on rebuilding multiple units. Pay the professional and enjoy your free time.
LIFE of Pleasure i appreciate your comment, i do think that 750 is a good price but trusting the use of good parts is my main concern. ill post an update in about 2-3 weeks. thanks again
My honest opinion is anymore I am about the only one that can make these hold next to a few select others. There is no way you can build one of these for 750.00 maybe like 1200.00. Anyone thats doing that for you is making a quick buck and thats whats wrong with the whole industry. Never ever go junkyard, just do your reaseach and either cover all the bases yourself or pay a reputable professional that you have heard about. Not a guy who just says he can and gives you a cheap price lol. and thank you for the compliments. Check out my heavy hauler at www.performabuilt.com it comes with a converter, 2 year warranty and is built for towing a daily driving.
Ryan, exceptional video. Somebody recently re-built 4L60e. Bad experience, the truck wouldn’t shift & seemed like it was stuck on 2nd even when shifted down to 1st. I drove for about 5 mins and fluid shot out of breather with pieces of what seems like material on belt, any ideas what went wrong? I had to take down after initial re-install to take back to him, wish I would have seen tour video before this issue.
Not a common problem thats for sure. It was definitely a bind up which when pressured up can cause fluid to spew out the tube and probably builder error but there could be many things that cause that like a torn lip seal in the input drum for example. I can diagnose common issues when the trans is built correctly but builder error is one thing that gets extremely hard to diagnose by description because a lot of them make very uncommon mistakes. Not many people can build these. I wish i could help more but im at a loss to exactly what is causing your problem without actually diving into the unit. I would suggest a different builder.
Hello plz I have hummer h3 swap 2002 gen3 I change the bell housing n torque converter n shaft drum Gear n 1 n R working every well 2 n 3 n 4 start slipping on 2000 rpm I put my pressure gauge I have 60 63 psi on all gears on driving also just reverse have 95psi Plz you can give me a solution ty
No offense, but I use both ACDelco 5 gear pinion planetaries in mine, no off-shore parts with all new bushings, Rad Alto & Kolene steels. Not going for 700HP, just a 1967 C10 daily driver built to last a long time. Using a 5.3L donor (with a few upgrades) from an 03 GM SUV for EFI and inherent extra features of the "LS" engine series. Good video though! Thumbs up for explanation as the auto trans is the most mis-understood part of the vehicle. TPS or MAF gets goofy, line pressure drops and bad things happen. ASE Master Tech since 1978 / Retired
But that is what we are using in this video and all of our builds? Anything other than GM / A/C is overseas and has very obvious tell tale signs. W Only use genuine GM A/C delco 5 pinion and 4 pinion Planetaries. Where did you get the impression we are using offshore parts? You obviously did not pay attention to this video
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions Sorry, no offense and will edit. I could have worded it better, but I support your choice of "Saying It" that off-shore parts are out there, so many get snookered. A great deal of research and destructive and non-destructive testing is performed by GM. The use of a 4 gear pinion is original to the transmission, but was just surprised to see 4 gear go in. You where building a transmission for a friend I believe, which is just fine. I believe you added the inspection of bushings is needed and those wear good and went on to explain briefly. I simply chose to use a 5 gear pinion, instead of 4 gear. Either is fine, but the title includes 700 HP. I would have thought that a 5 gear front & rear was not used. That's all. Not saying you ever use over seas parts. It is an issue for those trying to save money and don't know what they are getting and I am happy you brought it up. Like buying a Chinese TECH2...good luck! Since GM is on over 67 country and chose to build a plant to build vehicles in China, a lot of parts & tools get copied without GMs approval. Being retired does not mean I have nothing to do and was distracted with my train of thought while having many things mechanical, paperwork, yard and my own projects...So don't retired unless you can afford to have other do projects you can pay someone to do for you. Good step by step showing the basic of what goes into just putting a 4L60e back to gather!
That gonna cost a lot . Can anyone help and till me what the best part to replace with a perfurmance part just for a daily driving ??? Car is impalla ss 96 same 4L60E
I have a question for you guys. I love the builds and have watched and saved all you 4l60e videos. I have a stock 2003 Silverado. I just finished rebuilding the transmission. I have only built a few auto transmissions before. I have the transgo, shift correction kit and the sonex pump upgrades with the spring spacer the new valve the transgo .500 heavy duty boost valve and different springs. I used the Drake performance clutch and rebuild kit for everything else. I also bought the upgraded aluminum diaphragm with the o ring and the corvette almunium high perfromace super servo. and the sonnax billet overrun piston kit. I upgraded to a 5 pinion planetary gear set with the heavy duty shell. a towing lock up converter from drake. I just installed the transmission. everything shifts smoothly when in 1st 2nd or 3rd. but when I put it in drive and it shifts something is cutting power to the engine. Almost like its a traction control issue the truck is still running perfect it just cuts out, just wont go under light load.it actually works perfect if I hammer the throttle. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. if I take off in 3rd it runs and shifts perfectly.
make yourself a manual switch shift box. Lots of vids on here that explain it. Easily google your wiring diagram. I say this with respect and humility as I rebuilt my trans, just back to stock with the usual updates and one morning it just lost 2nd and 3rd gears. At around 20,000 miles with perfect shifting up to the night before. The reason is my ECU lost its flash. My trans was fine. Well, driving it like I did for several weeks while replacing Servo seals, apply pin, solenoids, etc. lost some life as it crapped out within 70,000 miles. But, then I wired up the switch box and found out it was actually shifting and performing perfectly. Every shop I took it to to get the scanner put on it was telling me it was in need of rebuild. Swapped out ECU with a re-flashed unit and everything shifted perfectly again for 50,000 more miles. Ultimately, my TCC valve bore was worn, had put the spring in it to lock it out, but still acting up and causing the in and out of overdrive issue that it had at the end of its original 365,000 original miles. Worn valve body. Over 435,000 miles on it now. Anyway, Good tool to have if you are into this as deep as you are apparently. Good luck! I am rebuilding again with all upgraded HP parts. Learned a little on my first one. I hope to do better on next one
What’s the cost on all the upgraded parts from a stock 4L60e for 700 /1000 plus back in 2011/2 I had a trans shop in Killeen,Tx rebuild my stock C4 trans. The guy at the shop told me he could upgrade my trans so that it would be more HD and capable up to 550 or so and different torque converter then what was original from factory. I still have the car and have not had any transmission issues ever.
Hi,blessing to everyone.i have my first build a 3.8GM supercharger putting a little over 400hp.i want to build a4l60e level2 but am afraid to lose my over drive.what can I do to keep high performance transmission and also keep my rpm on the highway under 2000rpm?
Theres more to keeping a transmission reliable than just building the trans right. As far as keeping your cruising under 2000 thats going to come from your rearend ratio and tiresize
Awesome video very detailed on everything. So I have a 2001 Silverado 4x4 3rd 4th is gone along with reverse this isnt the original engine so is there any numbers on this transmission I can reference from other than 4l60e ?
I realize that your modifications are based on many hours of R&D and that information belongs to the company. I only want to ask about the Transgo separator plate. I am interested in your opinion on using them on a stock build, especially when the check ball that commonly punches through the plate does just that. Is it better to just repair the plate and reuse it on a stock build?
I also wanted to ask if there are any books or other sources of study to help someone like me that wants to learn. As I stated on another comment I am a professional technician but transmission work is subbed out usually. I have rebuilt around 10 to 15 of the 4l60e transmissions. I seem to learn something new on everyone right now. I have also rebuilt a few other units along the way. I have already purchased a good many tools including the tools for the Teflon seals on the input drum and stator. Just trying to learn all I can.
i would buy a book with actual fluid diagrams in it and study how it works and it will slowly start comming together for you. atsg and transmission bench on youtube are great beginner videos as well.
Its really just not necessary and is an old myth in earlier days of building. Fluid travels so fast through the initial startup/ fillup when the converter is already partially filled it soaks everything in a matter of seconds. Plus on our dyno we can run everything in nice and easy at first.
They dont really swell, and as stated before oil is very thin hot and what your feeling cold and soaked is the viscosity of the oil over actual drag. cold oil is very misleading. The clutches do compress about .020 when hit the first time, so space for that very miniscule amount of fluid clearance becomes irrelivant. Normally yes a torque wrench is important for some transmissions but not all of them and the 4l60 is very forgiving in that aspect. The only way you can mess this particular transmission up is to make it shift hard as hell or forget to put something in it. We have been doing these a very long time and its not a sales pitch, our reputation speaks for that. besides as a high volume shop our guns are regulated.
Arent you supposed to soak the clutches in fluid for 15 minutes? I have seen build vids where they apply a small amount of fluid to each part as its installed.
Mannnn ive answered this a ton. Im sure youll find it in the comments. Its rly not nessescary, just some bs a few boomers made up back then to scare everyone.
So you're saying guys are pulling wheelies with the stock output shaft? That would be cool because that means they're plenty strong enough for what I intend to do
They are indeed, however it needs to be set up to shift correctly to not be so hard it shocks the components and the clearances must be right as well. Our facebook has quite a few customers with 600-900 whp on stock output shafts pulling tires if youd care to check it out.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions cool thanks for the reply man I'm running a Z71 Avalanche 6.0 swap only going to be around 500 horsepower so this should be plenty for me I just hope my transfer case holds up lol
I'm going to assume that you have torn down these in the past, and if so whats your method of removing the factory installed bell housing bolts from the case? After braking a few of those special torque bits with an impact I got out the torch and heated up the heads for abut 10 seconds. They then came out with a hand ratchet. Retired builder since 2015.
A T50 Plus bit and 1/2 inch drive impact and a torch is what ive always used and i still do it often. i usually work the impact with short zaps and if it doesnt come out with 2 or 3 quick hits i heat it hot and they usually come right out.
When talking about the garbage aluminum pistons, you are meaning "bonded"? I'm rebuilding my 60 currently and am sourcing my parts have everything sorted I think but I'm stuck on this bonded piston vs molded.. please help.... Lol
We only use bonded pistons and its the only way to go. in the earlier 4l60Es prior 97 and the 700R4 they used aluminum with removable lip seals that just dont hold up like the steel bonded do.
I have 1988 K5 Blazer with a rebuilt 700R4 K case. The stock 350 was in. Need of a Rebuild. Roughly costing around S 2100.when all said and done..By The Divine Grace of the GODS OF HORSE POWER and Brute. strength I stumbled upon a 1977 Big Block 454 with 1971 or 72 Oval port heads. For $1500.. Barely broken in. tobe set up with Eldelbrock carb. .what.should i be think about . Or better yet ..What concern would you be thinking about i. Joining together. Rebuilt 700R4 to rebuilt 454 ...
