There is special tools available for the crank bolt, I used to make them for a Swedish dealer. But bmw has a variant to. You bolt them on in the front of the crank where the belt pulley sits. Works great and you can loosen the crankbolt without help I've done it several times. Make sure the crank is straight if you have locket the crank with the fly wheel to loosen the bolt. great video guys 👍
awesome that it didnt end up causing major damage. Im in the process of turboing my e46 so this is definitely encouraging. gonna double check the vanos bolts when i put the motor back together now lol
I can offer you a tip that will help you out.. Until last year, I worked for a performance shop that specializes in the GM LS/LT engine platform, the Ford Modular/Coyote platform & I usually ended up building a couple of random late model dohc engine or 2 of something like a BMW N54/N55 throughout the year. Until you aquire a really nice torque wrench that has an internal dynamic angle finder, throw that torque 5o yield gauge away. When you look at the torque to yield spec, round it to the nearest 90 degree value and use that, or use a paint marker to mark the bolt head after your initial snug value is obtained, then mark the block however many degrees from the bolt mark reflected in your tq value and tighten until your marks line up. I've seen many people with inconsistent values or untorqued (missed) bolts altogether due to the clumsiness of those torque angle gauges. Obviously they work better on some applications than others, but mostly just result in increasing the likelihood of error. Looks like you did a great job though! Congrats!! It's been a while since I've owned a e36 and even longer since I had one that still had a BMW engine in it, but that car looks like it could be a lot of fun!!
That oil varnish on the cam trays is easily removed with a soak of some Totally Awesome degreaser diluted 1:1. Also, bar magnets for the lifters so you don't drop any
i got lucky with my crank bolt i had the motor sitting on the floor (on a tire) and all i had to use was a impact to break the junk inside the threads loose, and used a pipe wrench and 4 foot breaker bar. came off decently easy
I have a m52tu b28 E39 turbo built and Im trying to run the same intake plenum, are they vacuum lines on the top and did you run into any issues with them 😅 love the build looks mint
I spend maybe 2 hours on that crank bolt, had several people standing on the engine stand, using breaker bars with a 2 meter long pipe etc. Nothing worked. Ended up borrowing a $2000, 3500nm airgun and it was literally out in 2 seconds.
coincidence or what but this is the 2nd video about rebuilding an m50 engine and also the second video where one of the ARP studs snap. The first one where I saw it was Mat ross’s video.
Hey Joshua, Do you mind sharing the name of the machine shop that did your head and block? I have an M52 and it would be worth the drive to get it to a recommended shop.
Are you going for over 500whp on original M52 2.8 Pistons? I am on my third engine, have broken Piston all around when going over 470whp… All of mine have broken where the Rings go, not sure how it is called in English
Don't these have an aluminum block? If you have the engine out of the car as it is wouldn't it be wise to swap for an M50 cast iron block and M50 rods? I've always been advised not to run much more than 8PSI of boost on the M52 with the stock bottom end.
@@joshuadunand did not know that! While it appears Europe got the better M3, North America got the better M52 config. Any idea what the ceiling is on the stock head studs and gasket? (obviously once the head comes off these might as well be upgraded but for those who yet to rebuild)
I've got the biggest 3inch vibrant intercooler I could fit in there, I don't remember the model # sorry. It's on a VEMS standalone. I wouldn't recommend it, very dated ECU with no safetys. I'm looking to upgrade in the future
