Building a True Dual Exhaust System | LS Swap Chevy C10 

The best part is having your kid learning in the background. Much respect bro. I love when my son has the opportunity to help.

Hey Paul! I stumbled on your channel as i am getting ready to start my 77 C10 project for my channel. I've been binge watching your video ever since i got home from work. Great work and looking forward to the finished product!

Awesome videos!! Thanks Paul! Keep it up.

Great video! Not too much narration, just the job done with some cruisey music playing. Nice.

@ 11:13 " not sure whats going on with the camera" If your shop has fluorescent lighting, the video camera shutter sync is "seeing" the 60 hz cycle of the bulb turning on and off. Thats why you see what appears to be waves of light and dark areas moving acrost the video screen.

Love the videos!

Just found your channel. I see you are building a c10 as well. You have a great channel going here.Subscribed!

I would buy an install the trailing arm crossmember cut outs while you have the cab off just incase you want to run the exhaust out the back

great video!! i learned alot.those flex adapters are cool.never seen those before.may come in handy finishing the exhaust on my cj7.thanks

Should sound really healthy!! Truck is looking really good!!

Who caught the ghost at 0:02 on the left side of the screen?!?!

You building a sweet ride and doing work of a True Blue Fabricator. I had a duel exhaust put on my 93 K1500 Blazer by a guy I thought did work like you, this guy had a Muffler Shop for years but retired and was doing it for extra cash, but it turned out a scab job. Tailpipes were off so bad I had to stop walking up from behind my truck as I would get in a bad mood looking at it. Then when he did fix it the drivers side was solid tight and the passenger side was flopping loose. $ $1.300 Canadian plus another $200 to get the hangers fixed properly. It’s not even stainless steel.

That's going to be really loud, u might want to add some sound deadening mat to ur cab

I like the way you modified your original idea. I would have used both flex units as then you could mount the exhaust in a more sturdy manner than the factory style brackets and it looks neat when someone takes the trouble to have a more stable exhaust pipe (in my opinion). Overall a very nice and clean install.

Good luck getting your transmission out with that set up.

Awesome video, I plan on building my own exhaust as well. I think I’m going to go with a Y pipe and single exhaust out on my build.

Been following your build for awhile. Brothers truck makes a kit for about $100 that allows you to run the exhaust thru the support for the rear track bars if you ever decide to extend that and want to keep it off the ground.

Drill 3 in. Holes in that trailing arm cross member and dump at the rear axle?

My bolts didn't fit dirty dingo crossmember either. Great product. Would have been better if the slots were bigger

Paul nice job on your C10, been watching here and there. Well wanted to tell you that your exhaust is going to be load and drone in the cab. My exhaust is about a foot longer. And when driving is very load inside and hard to hear the radio.. so I am thinking of buying a exhaust kit and going to the back bumper area..

Assuming this truck has been done and driving for a while, can you give an update on how the cab sound is with the tips exiting under the truck? Does it drone inside the cab?

Just a question what is the length of those turn down pipes I know they are 3” inlet but how long

Was that stainless exhaust tubing you were using? How did you go about welding? Did you use a stainless flux core with a mix of gas? About to take on fabbing up my exhaust and want to try and figure out the best way to go about making the welds

Where did you get those clamps?

You make building exhaust look easy! Local guy here says about $500 for mine if he does it. Might just tackle it myself if it's this easy.

It’s hard to tell from this angle. But if you are running a column shifter is it going to clear your O2 sensor?

One option would be to get set of mufflers the has an input to one side then center output?

What size piping

If you turn mufflers side ways you get less drone in cab

That's going to be loud as hell inside dumped out under the cab.

Great info here , what is up with the music , I can listen to most anything but that noise is annoying, much too loud, Why does music volume increase and when you start talking the volume lowers ? , while trying to follow what you are doing , at least lower the volume , had to mute

Which model of black widow did you go with?

What X member is the original?

I've been watching your build for about two years. You do really good work. But I'm not sure what your objective is with the exhaust you just installed. Is it performance only or sound? With the setup you just installed, I think you are looking at extreme droning and loud exhaust noise in your cab. Mounting the mufflers under the cab and dumping the exhaust there is not the ideal location. You most likely will be installing sound deadening in your cab. That will help but not eliminate the droning or noise. Loud droning exhaust can really take the enjoyment out of your ride. From personal experience I have a suggestion. I was faced with the same low clearance exhaust dilemma. My project was a 1970 GMC longbed. I first started off with long tube headers and soon into my build I realized the long tube headers would not give the clearance I needed. One of my main objectives was a comfortable and quiet cab. I finally went with Headmen shorty headers (not block huggers). These headers allowed me to keep the exhaust system totally tucked up above the bottom of the frame. I went with the RideTech Strong Arm four link suspension. But doing that did not allow enough room to mount the mufflers I wanted to use under the bed and I wanted the exhaust to run completely to the rear of the truck. I had also installed an aluminum rear fuel tank mounted under the bed between the frame rails. With that tank installed there was not enough room for the exhaust to go over the rear axle without interfering with the fuel tank. So the exhaust crosses over the frame just before the frame rises to meet the bed floor. It then runs along the outside of frame, following it's shape to the rear of the truck. The mufflers are mounted to the rear of the tires tucked up between the rear body panel and the outside of the frame. The only part of the exhaust that can be see when looking at the side of the truck is where the exhaust tips down and exits just before the rear bumper. It sounds confuted, but actually looks good. Beside having a quiet cab I don't have the heat radiating from mufflers that would have been mounted under the cab. Now all of this is just a suggestion not a criticism. Good luck. Looking forward to a great looking truck when you are finished.

Dumps = Bad idea.

Anyone interested in 3" stainless exhaust pipe for really reasonable check out speed-engineering. Im not affiliated with them, but I just bought two 44" long 3" diameter stainless straight pipes and two 44" long 3" diameter stainless straight with a u bend for $126 shipped to my door.

Complete lack of any back pressure. Should at least of ran em to the axle then dumped it. Also I can’t imagine the drone you’ll have dumped before the end of the cab even..