I must apologies that this one is a bit longer than it really needs to be, but I wanted these videos to be a one stop shop for a new/novice builder as well so I run through the basics pretty thoroughly. Feel free to skip around if needed! Oh, and for a detailed optic mounting video, check out- ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gZS_ITI5po0.html
thanks for allowing me to skip around. I'd like to see this in a more Erik Cortina's "6.5 needs more" series. (currently, I'm wondering if lapping or thermofitting will make my 18.5 barrel group tighter....)
For some reason I feel like I’m home every time I watch a Brownells video. Like Caleb is my rich cousin from my mom’s side that lives out of state. Even though I don’t see him often, it’s always nice to catch up on video.
The coffee meme at brownells keeps getting better and better 😂😂😂 Incredibly informative video and Caleb is a real expert that really breaks things down. 10/10
Now i see where i messed up. I didn't take a sip of coffee before the trigger but rather after. Got it now! Im glad im not the only one who always grabs the wrong hex wrench the first time.
This is an excellent series. I’m starting a new build and it’s good to have a refresher course to reference. I kinda winged the first build and wanted to improve my overall build quality. Thanks for the information, guys.
Before installing the trigger guard pivot roll pin, I recommend putting a little anti-seize grease on it. I like your idea of greasing the safety detent and spring before installing them. Also, your technique for installing the forward lower receiver pivot take-down pin is clever.
Planning my first build here in the next week or so when everything comes in. Watching these 2 reduced my anxiety about it by a ton. You completely put it together in about 20 minutes of assembly time, with an added 1 hour 40 minutes of great explanatiin. Master work there, thank you.
Caleb, you do a great job keeping your presentations detailed and interesting. Dry wit helps. Brownells is an excellent supplier to those that work with firearms, and your presentations complement that.
That is a sweet rifle, great parts selection, I love that stock. I did a billet lower that has the screw for making it fit tightly. Mine was already so tight that I didn't have to tighten the screw at all, there's no play whatsoever. I used a VLTOR MUR upper and a 17 Design billet lower. I just ordered the original recoil mitigation system made by VLTOR with the Forward Controls castle nut, and B5 end plate with the QD socket. I also took a little buffing wheel on my Dremel with metal polishing sticks and polished the detents, I even did the mating-interfacing surfaces on the safety. It makes even basic mil spec parts work really smooth, but does not add any slop. You do not want to use anything that is really removing metal, other than a literal microscopic amount. This is just a cloth wheel and a metal polishing stick that is not aggressive at all, but just puts a mirror finish on the metal. You would not want to change the dimensions of anything.
To be fair, ive seen a few different profiles on the safety detents (for mil spec safetys but also a couple different aftermarket companies too) even from the same “manufacturer” (probably they sourced it from different actual parts makers) ... but i agree, dont need to be removing metal... just as long as the detents are positive and dont move the saftey under recoil.
Wasn't even aware of that tension screw in the lower to be honest. The stripped lower I built had the hole but no screw, so now I gotta get one to clean up my wobbly upper, thanks for enlightening me.
I enjoyed and still do these videos just like the many made in the past, wanna see more range and zeroing as well as Steve phosphate and re finish pistol slides!!!!
I have made an order of assembly mistake a few times. Put in the bolt catch BEFORE I put in the mag catch. What a PAIN! I also use a wooden dowel (chopstick) to push in the mag catch but you got to be 'hambedextrus' to make it work...don't have a nifty tool like you do Caleb! Also Wheeler makes a cool tool to press in the trigger guard pin. I also use it to push in the pin in aftermarket trigger shoes for Glocks! I think Geissele could take a few thousands off the Maritime bolt release paddle to clear the hammer pin.
Fantastic videos, parts 1 & 2. I like using my hands and turning wrenches. I have been toying with the idea of building my own rifle. I have been researching and found these excellent videos. Lots of great information in these. Going to be starting soon and these will be my build reference. Great job!!!
Love the videos ! When leveling the firearm to install the optic… since the optic is mounted on the receiver, I level off of the receiver instead of the handguard. Keep up the great content !
The set screw introduces more tolerance into the system. I build a bunch of AR platforms and I always chose components that are properly fitted or that can be adjusted. Say what you want, but anything that spreads the receiver fitment apart induces another form of dispersion into the system. Look beyond the old information and do your own testing to see what works. Every single AR I accurize that uses the set screw or the wedge doesn't shoot consistent groups. The reason is when the receivers are pushed apart there is more of a chance for the upper receiver to rock side to side as well as move laterally along the pins due to the fulcrum being reduced to a smaller point of contact. I know a ton of people are going to say that I'm wrong. That's your opinion. It takes more than a good barrel to make an AR platform perform at it's highest level. I have done my own testing to develop my build procedures and they work every single time. Everyone is still using antiquated torque specs and they don't understand tolerance stacking and the effect on overall accuracy. I have taken some very high end builds, applied my methods and have always seen an improvement in accuracy and reliability. I don't think in terms of everything is set in stone when it comes to firearms. I check everything. I believe that it's broken until I check it. With that said, let the hate begin.
I used a front pivot pin too for every build I've done. That trick you had is either black magic or years of experience. I normally launch at least one detent pin on every build. I don't know how you do it, but I'm going to give it a shot.
try putting in another take down pin from the other side first to capture the spring/detent then push the through with the permanent pin from the correct side..
The first time I did it a few months ago, it was very easy. Used a razor blade to hold down the detent while I pushed in the pin by hand. Incredibly simple
At 69,with Cataracts,and poor hand strength, I just finished a nice Retro build of a Vietnam style CAR-15.With a lot of Brownells parts and tools. Great fun ,and real nice.🏆🪖🔧
I like to put the trigger group in before the bolt catch because the hammer can help hold the bolt catch in place. Especially helps with roll pin bolt catches.
The optic screws needed to be torqued again after you did the criss cross, as you tighten the other screws the first screw you tightened will be loose a lot of times
I watched part 1 about your build and you mentioned the bolt carrier group. You don't have to go with a Sharps bolt carrier group but there is other cheaper enhanced bolt carrier groups that will take up the slop in your upper receiver
What slop are you speaking of? Like the inner diameter dimension? If so buying quality milspec parts negates that. Not to mention that the carrier shouldnt be snug at all in the carrier, theres a spec for the carrier id and "ways" inside. And spec for carrier "ways" or contact surfaces.
User preference but I would call it essential use for dawn/dusk applications where the naked eye can pick up well in dim light conditions but will make the reticle without illumination harder to place accurately
If you want the illuminated reticle, the strike eagle 3-18x44 has the illuminated reticle and its a pretty nice scope. I put it on my long range 6mm ARC
The decision comes down to you and how you use your rifle. Many daytime shooters love illuminated reticles. But in the army, we use dots or chevrons because illuminated reticles, even at the lowest setting, acts to wash out your night vision through your scope. Ya know, that rod and cone thing in the back of your eyeball. But it’s totally user preference. I use both.
40:38 just go buy the wheeler professional scope level!!! Level the upper reciever, match the barrel level to it (that's your reference level) and then level your scope.
Why didn't you lap the scope rings? After all the lapping you did on the upper I thought you would have done the scope rings too. Is that like a Trijicon thing that they make it so good it doesn't need lapping?
It would be nice if you would link the complete AR build tutorial in the description. Trying to search for it I get 8 million videos none o0f which is the right one. More important: it would be REALLY nice if you showed each part in closeup before installing it. You just pull springs and pins from your box and install them and all I can see is your fingers.
I keep turning it up to hear your instructions, but the intro music keeps playing through the whole video. I think it should maybe fade out after 15 or 30 seconds? Love the videos.
Another fantastic video, thank you for sharing! I watched both videos in this series and I might have missed the answer to my question so I apologize in advance, but what is the twist rate of that barrel?
Love your videos guys. Screw that lefty mag release with the maritime bolt catch. Way too much clutter withe the bolt hold open. Troy Industries is much better
Maybe it would have been nice to show a standard bolt release install without the fancy screw in pin. And you kind of buzzed through one of the trickier little details: the pivot pin install. I know you have another video on that but why not just show it all on one video?
Over extended use ive seen the set screw start to wear into the lug, but you could just tighten the screw up a bit. The wedge wont cause wear, but can be tricky to cut just right and fall out. I use the wedge in reciever sets w more slop than id like. I like the wedge personally cause i can cut the wedge for tension i like. With my set screw ones, you just adjust till contact, but also making sure your takedown pin goes in without a fight.
Dont use the take up screw, buy oversized takedown pins. I have perfect sized pins but they dont make them anymore so I can’t recommend them to you. The slightly oversized should work great as well. There is no slop in my upper/lower
