BUILT E90 N54 DYNO DAY: SEIZED FOOTAGE & END OF THE FLOWMAX STORY 

Eventually…. Thinking of getting Ken down to tune that one in person!

@@ZeroTo60Tube That would be epic!

Thanks dude!

Thanks dude! We’ll see what happens

thanks so much dude!

Good morning!

I appreciate that! Thanks man

Well I think you and I are on the same page

Hahahaha 😂

Great to hear! Have you had any bitters on your recent for sale post?

@@ZeroTo60Tube I haven’t actually. I should probably put some effort in to taking some good photos.

Its a touchy subject. I think most of the failures are not becuase of the turbos. But in this day an age most people need to blame someone else. At the end of the day, they make incredible power, expecting and warranty when we are pushing motors so much is crazy. Enthusiasts need to man up and take repsonsibility for the car they put together.

You and me both!

sounds like the flomax turbos might still prove viable tho which is super cool too !

Yes they are some serious turbos! However no longer available.

Awesome! Thank you!

Dude thank you for following along and watching the channel.

He helped me with my diff from watching the lsd swap he did. Works perfectly.

​@@davidaames8787yes he programmed my msd81 as my msd80 mosfits shit them self and was so helpfull and verry suportive in replying to me about issues i had with my car but absolute gemtleman and would not hesitate to contact him in the future if have anu issues thanks agan 🤜🤛

There’s still a single turbo car spot in the stable…. Soon.

Glad you like them!

I wanna see them too. Maxpeeding rods and amp44 were fine.... but lets see what the kingtecs are like

Thanks man, thats very nice of you to watch without the BMW additiction haha

Thanks man!

Its coming back..... i do really enjoy doing the 8speed work. So that stuff i will share as well. However, the quest for 1000whp n54 is on.

Just wait, just wait! That rebuild is a big job! And it’s gonna be epic.

So turns out, its piston slap. The motor has now been dissasembled and rods, bearing and crank are fine. Everything looks like new. So i assume piston slap....... Unless that missing gasket on the turbo was causing the noise..... :S

@@ZeroTo60Tube it’s was odd how it sounded when it started ramping up on the dyno but then disappeared! Phones and go pros seem to pick it up really loudly! Oversized pistons and a rebore? You can measure the cylinders to n make sure they are actually round!

Eventually. We had a lot of changes in the family over the last 18 months. Some of the e39s are still around. But all are in need of some love.

Dude i am so glad yorus worked out. Where are you at with your car at the mo? I remember seeing something about some new turbos? Ready to try a single yet?

@@ZeroTo60Tube Honestly man after my MMPs failed due to a loose bolt in the chra I was going to try another set of twins but I just dropped that idea as I am currently going Big single turbo as we speak. I’m just sick of the twins and all the work that goes into every swap plus I know I’ll never get another set of twins that will perform as strong as the MMPs so I’m not trying to downgrade. I moved across country so my car hasn’t been my top priority these last 7 months but it will be back up soon even stronger and we will Crack into the 4’s 60-130! Hope your new build works out!

Got any videos of yours yet?

waiting for a custom turbo manifold for the n53 head, it didnt like the n54 manifold we rigged up to fit much. . update on the engine since its changed since we last spoke, its now 3.28 liter, 11.5:1 comp, 625 studs, fire ringed, darton mid/wet sleeve insert that machines the entire center of the block out. n53 head, 288/284 +11mm cams. inconel valves, ti springs. it saw 9k rpm on maxxecu, lamik tcu on the built 8 speed on the gen2 6266 in testing. nothing major just little things to button up. im strapping a sportsman class precision on it, 1400-1500hp capable. if this new block insert and sleeve system lets the block live above 1200hp , ill open source the cnc file for the darton sleeves and the block guard insert. i for sure set a 6266 n54 power record, lets just say it definately can make 900hp before the turbine starts singing the star spangled banner lol (thats why its not running currently, i blew the turbine out the back of the turbo hurt the billet valve cover and some little bs)

@@ZeroTo60Tube i designed a custom insert that goes between the timing chain and cylinder 1 to beef up that area of the block, tolerance fit and deck smooth. it fits mechanically no issues. the mid sleeved block is like 12mm chick sleeves with massive flanges and o ring system. we think we finally nailed the n54 block that can handle 1500hp. the stroker kit BC makes is good for 1800ft lbs, and i just proved the n53 head and high duration cams at 9krpm makes a ton more power than the 3.0 n54 head high lift cams. we are about to make some serious noise in the next few weeks and as always, if it works ill email the files i have for everything

Do you know how lucky you are? haha

Welcome back!

It’s a shame….

Man I love the way they sound. But those n55s don’t take the abuse a n54 will. That being said if one came at me at the right price I’d love to play with it.

i think ultimately that is end game!

still wild to me that you got raided by the pigs man!

was that knock? The knock lifted the head?

I havent thought about the merch in ages. I dont think i will get any time to update designs or anything soon. but i will mention it if i do.

Nice, did you get any piston slap from the AMP44s?

Nope all good ​@@ZeroTo60Tube

Times are tough when you can’t afford that beard die.

MHD all day...

With turbo lamik or cantcu, both send the can signal to the chassis to emulate the gear position. So you can use any shifter and the chassis is non the wider. However complete that question. You start the car always in park. Then one pull down will engage drive or two pushes forward will engage reverse. You basically pull back to up a gear or push to go down. Both TCU’s have mode switches. By default you can manually shift at any time and they return to auto mode a set time after.

The gaskets may be fine for lower power levels

Ahhh man. I reckon it only leaked when there was some decent manifold pressure. The flowmax manifolds are machined differently to others and probably seal quite well in comparison….. bloody annoying I wasted the turbos over a silly mistake not paying attention. I probabaly filmed me putting it on. Need to go back through footage.

Smoke on decel is usually PCV, not turbos.

How would you know 😛

@@ZeroTo60Tube LOL. When you're on you're 5th set of twins, you start developing a sense for it 🤣

You cant at the moment. However soon MHD will support port injection instead of DI. A di delete essentially. Injector sizing is not yet calculated or locked in, so hold off on buying anything for now.

Thanks for your reply

It’s a full custome moulded job. Not sure who did it to be honest.

Ohhrly was sold. And then subsequently dismantled and parted out.

Not sure what you are talking about officer…… 😛 It’s out of the car, sitting on a motor with a blown head gasket. The story will continue soon.

Nissan ZD30…. However I need to revisit this.

I think those rods are pretty stout! I’d use them again.

Elring version I had is different to OE. Elring is an OE supplier but not the manufacturer of the n54 mls gasket. There are a few differences between them.

Most likely culprit at this point is a loose power steering pump. I through it was piston slap. But it’s been stripped down now. Everything inside looks perfect. Power steering pump was loose when it got pulled down. It only knocked at low rpm. It was definitely louder at the front of the motor. But if I get a definitely answer I’ll defs update everyone.

One had n54 oem bolts, the other had 12mm Nissan stretch bolts. Both lift the head around 650whp. I also know John Gago had a similar experience with elring.

@@ZeroTo60Tube Hi, thanks for the reply. Haha then I know that my head needs to come off again. I just assembled the head with an elring gasket, a few weeks ago. I just wanted to save a couple euros, but I guess it's not worth the risk 😁. Kind regards Christian

I think and im fairly confident all this time on that was piston slap. The knock i was worried about was piston slap. The amp44 pistons are made of a material that is more prone to piston slap.

@@ZeroTo60Tube what fuel did you ran ? I guess you will be able to see if its piston slap or deth.

We used to have unlimited speed roads in the NT.....

Every Black Friday.

Zd30 head bolts….

It’s best to contact whoever you bought the motiv from. Otherwise post any comments here. I don’t do DM’s I’m sorry. Too many to keep up with.

No problem. Motiv has been a real pain. My motiv 0-10 bar pressure sensor for the fuel line going to the PI plate is reading 110psi constantly. LPFP is +/- 70psi. I’m expecting both to read the same or very close. I feel something is wrong. I’ve traced power, gnd and signal wiring from the motiv harness. I think I should be able to read the voltage of the signal wire to see if the sensor is functioning correct? What voltage should I be reading for approx 70psi? Can u think of anything else

They should read with in 10% of each other. However that sounds like either a faulty sensor or wiring issue. The sensors are cheap and it may have just failed. Even the expensive ones have a very strange lifespan. Dont over think it, check the wiring, if its good grab another sensor.@@edwardwerley8831

Great. Thanks for the input

Hehe, now you tell me…

Thanks for answering

Have you pulled yours apart yet?

@@ZeroTo60Tube Not yet just received a set of ceramic ball bearing 19ts turbos to replace the flowmax swap them over this weekend. will let you know what went wrong.

Super keen to know what it was if anything. Which ones did you with to replace?

Yes correct. That was a seperate road to the trucks. A service road. But none the less it was that footage that instigated the investigation.

I think it’s been done…. I think. Hmmm

@@ZeroTo60Tube I've only seen the s55 dct adapter plate online none for a zf8. I think it's a perfect candidate since those cars are known for sluggish transmissions but extremely potent and reliable engines

Appreciate the heads up!

Car was an animal

lol….. that’s how tight things got, I couldn’t even afford beard colouring lol

@@ZeroTo60Tube haha I feel that. I'm headed your way myself.. been going white since I was 17. Now I'm 30 and the last 6 months I've suddenly got a bunch of random white hairs in my facial hair. Like you, I stress out constantly. Life isn't easy, and they certainly make it less easy here in Australia. It's very hard to have nice cars here... Starting to end up like California.

Yes

Likely related. I pulled threads with the same head bolts that you used in the video.

What did you torque them to? Also curious how you re-tapped. Did you use an end tap? @@peytontan5201

⁠@@ZeroTo60Tubethey pulled at 85ft/lbs, I did use an end tap and followed the threads. The problem with these bolts is the friction coefficient which is now added to the threads itself. The reason people use studs is because the only friction is between the washer and the nut. The friction adds variability to the clamping force which in your case didn’t look to be accurately measured. Different lubricants, etc adds variability, and simply torquing them down to 100ft/lbs gives us no idea behind the actual clamping force for bolts. This is why BMW went with 35nm and then angles to torque their bolts, paired with a stretch bolt.

defnitely a huge unknown using stretch bolts the way i did. I remember looking up the zd30 torque procedure and from memory we 45nm then 90deg - 90deg. Which i think i surpased when testing, but might not of on n54 motor.... i can't remember. Either way both motors with the elring spat coolant at similar power levels unfortunately. I think next motor, i will got OEM gasket and bolts and just see what happens..... doing things by the books.@@peytontan5201

Nothing. I left a gasket off it’s my fault. That’s fairly simple. A mm metal rod got so hot it melted…. That’s not a manufacturing failure ever. In fact you get a turbo hot enough to melt the bearing that’s nearly always user error. Something Ive learnt from being in the shop. It’s pretty rare for a mechanical part to fail. It’s not rare for someone to make a mistake and cause a mechanical part to fail. People who own a car, build a car and then try and blame someone else for their car breaking, shouldn’t be building cars. And with that attitude they will never ever build anything decent. I’ll also say this, if you run twins above 550whp and they don’t blow up, that’s a win. There is too much energy and heat getting squeezed through those tiny manifolds for them to ever be reliable. #stopblamingotherpeopleforyourcarbreaking

​@@ZeroTo60Tube I agree - the turbos (or rear turbo) was pushed too hard and that's why it failed. I think the failure was spun (pun intended) to make DAW look much better. Instead of just tossing it up to installer error - it should be noted that it's just too much heat for twins. Do you really think 30psi is the 'safe' amount of boost, but 35 is too much? You said in the video yourself that they become heat pumps over low to mid 20s - they are already out of their efficiency at that PR. Were you running a stock exhaust? God knows DAW would blame you for that as well, which is absolute BS - the stock exhaust is not a restriction at all below 800whp.

To honestly answer that, after watching 4 or 5 hybrid cars on the dyno over the last 12 months. Anything over 23/24psi is the danger zone...... thats where 1 psi extra makes less power than all the previous psi's..... So heat is exponeitally going up. You get in to that 25psi range, then add a small boost leak, add an injector thats not flowing the same as the rest, add an exhaust manifold leak to one of the turbos and what happens to everything in the system........ something is getting much hotter than it should. My point in this video, i was running the car too hard, i didnt install them properly, it would be foolish to blame anything on the turbos. A lot of people in the community are too quick to blame manufacturers and its not good for anyone. It annoys the manufacturers, it winds people up because they feel like they are being ripped off and they sprial with silly threads on facebook, filled with 99% of people that dont have a clue what they are commenting on, all winding each other up. And the general sentiment around a component failure is just crappy. At the end of the day, it is really easy to make a N54, which is only a 3l 6 cyl make 500+whp with a massive powerband through the rev range. It's easy and cheap, which people dont understand is a serious amount of power for a relatively small capacity engine. Expecting warranty and pointing blame is not how the platform moves forward. It's what stops manufactures making aything for the platform. I want people to take more care, have a better understanding and learn from building their cars. When everyone simply blames the component thats failed, they are not learning. While a stock exhaust might be fine behind a big single turbo with half the turbine speed, maybe at 600whp and twins the stock exhaust is an issue. A slight restriction that just pips them in to melting range....... Its an unknown and even with a dyno, its pretty hard to scientifically check this. Becuase maybe they will do 2 back to back pulls and be fine. But they wont survive 4 pulls due to heat build up. Again this is an incredible amount of power for a small motor. 10 years ago this was an incredible amount of power for a 6l. @@langsbr