Jantz shows how to make your TJ handle correctly, and avoid death wobble, and keep your tire rods from twisting if you happen to have a hydraulic ram assist. Kits in stock.
Wow that is quite the recommendation, thank you very much. could you throw a couple pics and a comment like that on the Jantz Engineering Face Book page please.
I'm looking at upgrading my 98 ZJ tie rod and draglink and every seller has some either left out or about the kits. They either don't tell you what kind of ball&socket joints the have or that the kit will mess up these angles. Its tought finding a kit I'm positive will have quality joints AND won't mess up the track bar / drag link set up. Almost tempted to go full hydro buts its a street legal daily driver I'm putting it on.
Well, I am really impressed for taking attention to the details specially by setting up the damper mount to be in the center line between the ball joints of the track bar. Excellent work. If you still have a problem with the clearance between the damper mount and diff housing, there is a solution for that. It is an idea that I've just come of. The idea is to mount two opposing damper from the diff housing to the same track bar in a symmetrical set up. It is not as perfect as your set up due to the difference in damping and undamping forces of the shock. In case of the stock Nissan Patrol, the difference is about 25%. So the rotation of the track bar around the ball joints still exists but it is damped with a full damper force (I mean the slight horizontal play due to the rotation of track bar that you've mentioned in the video while going in highway). So, we are going to have an advantage of two dampers except in the area where the play due to the rotation of the track bar. This little play is damped by a single shock. By taking further consideration to mount the shocks, the play can by minimized. Hope you the best in that regard. Thanks.
This is the kind of guy where if Jeep owners come into his shop and wants all kinds of stuff done to their Jeep he would tell them flat out "you dont need all that shit" :)
I now have the steering kit ready for 97-2006 TJs Price is $1150 plus shipping. This includes a new double arm steering knuckle, 1 1/2" dia. Joggle Tie rod, Drag link with new ends, Track bar, and brackets, hiems, tie rod ends, and hardware. You will need to be able to drill your Drivers side steering knuckle to 7/8" and then you will put an insert in it for the tie rod flip. You can use a step drill from Home depot, they have them that go up to 7/8 on the big end for a reasonable price. Besides welding on the track bar brackets you will also need to fabricate a curved anti-sway bar link that comes out in front of the drag link which can be seen the video. You may also need to hacksaw and triangular file out the 4 blank keys in the supplied steering arm so that it will index straight back when the steering box in in the exact middle of travel. (otherwise it is off about 20 degrees). Also depending on the backspacing of your wheels you may need wheel spacers to keep the Tie rod end from rubbing on the inside wall of the tire. If all you need is the Joggled Tie rod, I will sell that complete with 1" offset tire rod ends for $300.
I started getting death wobble after I installed my rough country 2.5 inch lift I put a new rough country adjustable track bar and I'm still getting death wobble
imho i believe death wobble comes from worn out trailing arm bushings and the severe angle of the track bar. the demonstration you showed with the square and the amount of bumsteer built in, the angled track bar is the perpetrator of dw. good show
still wrong.. your track bar and drag link need to be the same length and in the same location to eliminate any forum of bump steer or bad steering angles
you are correct, however the flatter they are to start with the better. I would rather have them within 25% the same length and horizontal, than equal length and 15 degrees:)
