Can You Tile Over Drywall? (MUST SEE) 

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You should! It changes the game and prep work

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@@reinaldoknows993 Ooops, just noticed where I am going to do this. The basement stairs has "Knockdown" plaster will that still work with that rough surface? Thanks

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It sure is! Helps in so many ways

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Yes, definitely with glass 👍🏼

Like redguard?

@@greencars9862 Redguard technically would work but an actual material like schluter kerdi would be better

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Yes you can. It will be easier to trowel with a prim texture coat. 👍🏼 Definitely, waterproof around water, I use (red guard).

@@reinaldoknows993 Red guard is the best.

Do apply waterproofing under or over the primer?@@qualityflooringmanitousprings

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Yes, you should get a layer of hardie board over plywood (subfloor) before installing tile over floor. Hope this helps!

Unless the paint is bubbling, no. Applying this over the painted wall will give you what you’re looking for. A surface to trowel smoothly

Yes definitely! It will turn into a concrete type of texture for better surface

Absolutely thank you

Yes, I only use Mastic for subway tiles and mosaics. Anything in bigger format tiles I use “Keraflex Plus” by Mapei

That is tough to determine without seeing it. However, if the peeling is not bad, a skim coat of spackle will do the job after you remove the caulk line. You could email me some pictures and we can for sure get to the bottom of it, the right way. Hope this helps!

No need for red guard sir, that is a waterproof membrane. However, I would get a bucket or 2 of Eco-Prim and apply to give you a better surface when you spread your mastic (don’t use thinset) and make sure you use a small notch trowel. Hope this helps 🙏🏼

@@reinaldoknows993 but if you already have red guard from previous project, would it work in the same sense? Not looking for its water proofing abilities, just looking to use it as a bonding surface. Thanks for the reply!

Yes, you will need to remove the drywall. The hardie board is the same thickness (1/2”) as the drywall (if you wanted to go that path). You could also, order a bucket of this product (eco prim) give 1-2 coats over the drywall to apply the texture and than you could thin set over that.

No, do not use this in shower area. Only in areas where water won’t hit directly. For showers, you will need to seal your seams with thinset and thinset tape. Allow that to dry one day, then apply 2 coats of a waterproof product I use (redguard) at Home Depot. You’re ready for times after. Eco prim I would use if I’m installing backsplash in a kitchen over drywall to allow better adhesive and trowel flow when tiles are installed. Hope this helps!

Absolutely! You just want something on the surface of drywall to give you a better area for bonding! That would work! Glad I could help !!

It worked perfectly! Sorry for the delayed update. Thanks again!

@@flyingfish775 That is so great to hear! I'm excited this vide was able to help. Stay tune for more!

Can I use prime over drywall the put adhesive glue on ledge stone for my fireplace

@@kendall2cups380 You could prime drywall for better coverage with your thinnest. For the ledge I would use the thinnest to secure it. Although, construction adhesive could work if the piece you're installing isn't too heavy. Hope this helps!

No need to sand this product will give its own texture and will adhere to the knockdown texture just fine. Prep area

If I’m understanding right, you want to know if you can apply this product over drywall in the shower area prior to installing tiles. Yes, you can. After coating the drywall with this product, make sure to apply some sort of waterproof membrane over top of everything in water area. It’s smart to remove that drywall and install hardie board and than you won’t need anything else but redguard (waterproofing) but whatever works ! Hope this helps!!

As long as you prep the area right. I would advise to replace Sheetrock with hardieboard. If you’re not in the position to do so, I would at least 2-3 coats of redguard to waterproof Sheetrock. If you use redguard you don’t have to use the eco prim bc the redguard gives you a surface that easier to trowel. I hope this makes sense

New or old, it’s best to always prep area and then prime with your choice of product. Then use a good thinset product I like “Ultra Pro Plus” by Mapei will never let you down. Hope this helps!

Didn’t mention Mastic, but I will still prep before using any product. Mastic is great for any area not being hit by water

@@reinaldoknows993 oh gotcha, ok so what product are you typically using then over drywall, thinset?

@@on4acres Yes, Mapei products (Keriflex Plus) I only use Mastic for kitchen backsplash (never for floors or areas with water). I hope this helps!!

Yes absolutely if you are capable and willing to do it. Definitely do it that way and add waterproofing membrane

Make sure you seal your seams

Would work great on that!

I would verify the adhesion of the paint on the paneled surface first. A lot of times paint will not bond very well to panels in mobil homes, especially latex paints. Use your fingernail or sharp object like a knife to see if the paint will flake off easily. If it does, you had better strip it first.

If you’re painting. Than no. This is for tiling. If you’re asking if you could use over plaster. Yes

Yes you can! It will make installing easier. Make sure to cover your countertops well, use a small roller and roll lightly. Hope this helps! You could also use “Primer T” at Lowe’s for $10 bucks. I’m doing a video on that soon

@@reinaldoknows993 thank you I look forward to seeing that

Thanks!! I’m trying

It ranges, depends on the environment. Could take 30mins-2hrs to dry. I let it dry for an entire day to make sure it cures. Then apply thinset

As long as you installed the thinset on the area correctly with or without eco prim. It would be hard to level floor and chip out thinset to remove. Hope that answers your question.

@@reinaldoknows993 Yes. That if eco prime is applied it would be very difficult to get the thinset off. Thanks.

Yes and if you install correctly in general.

Stucco has a rough texture you’ll be fine to flow nicely with trowel hope this helps!

New or old, the purpose to prime when installing tiles is for the bond between thinset and wall. It’s more challenging to try and trowel drywall without primer because of how dry it is. The primer gives that extra coat of something for the thinset to grab and trowel easily. Hope this answers your question!

For drywall (green board) to make it easier to trowel the wall and get better coverage. Using this will give you a great texture wall so that thinset/mastic will adhere to. The backer board depends on the application area. If it’s water area, you should use waterproof membrane over backer. If it’s the floor/wall dry area, you’ll be fine right on backer. I hope this helps!

@@reinaldoknows993 prime the joint you mean? I’m confused by what you said about greenboard.. it’s only half cement board up from the floor since we’re tiling up 46” from the floor. From that point to the ceiling it’s greenboard

For your situation since it’s a shower. If the existing drywall has mold/mildew I would replace with hardie. If it’s still in good condition you MUST cover it with REDGUARD or any other waterproof membrane. The eco prim is for areas without water spots that need better backing for tile install. You must waterproof before you tile. Hope this helps!

@@reinaldoknows993 First of all, I appreciate the time you took to reply to me. Thank you...would you have a email address that I could futher communicate with ya🙏

@@fabulouspinkmk10 Yes of course! allinonepm94@gmail.com whatever helps!

If possible, replace the drywall with hardie board. Otherwise, you’ll be fine. I would add a primer overtop of the drywall before installing the tiles. Use “Keraflex Plus” by Mapei if you’re using a bigger format tile, not mastic. Hope this helps!!

Many people tile over redgard or mapei equivalent. Use a good thin set with polymers that says for floor and wall tile on it and also type of tile you are using ie porcelean, ceramic, glass. I know it’s not necessary but sometimes I do the first couple rows and make sure it’s level and taped so it won’t move and then I work on other things, and then come back to check on it to see if it’s dry or just start on it the next day. That kind of gives it a good sturdy foundation to finish the job out. I wouldn’t be concerned about how tall it was due to the fact that you grout lines actually are essentially expansion joints and the bearing weight is not technically pushing down with every piece as one. It may be a concern if the drywall is old and has any water damage. You’re not overthinking it, it’s good to ask questions.

@@wht240sxka thanks for your input. the job is starting at the end of the month and been doing lots of research. thanks

@@NunYaaBizz sure.

If the paneling is not bowing or coming off and on there really good, sure only if it’s secure properly. Prim first then tile

No, this is recommended for interior use only per instructions. Hope this helps

Absolutely you could

Great question, it’s best to not use mastic where water hits (which you stated, I get it, shit happens lol). However, with that being said, as long as it’s done correctly with good mix mastic, application, install time, grout, silicone etc etc.. It should hold (Again, shit happens, I say this because your situation might not be ideal to replace a whole shower). Mastic takes longer to settle, it’s more like glue. Now, if grout starts cracking, tiles are getting loose. The list goes on, yes remove. Bright side that tile should be easy to take up if it wasn’t installed properly. Waterproof the drywall if you choose to keep it, if not. Replace with hardiebacker but STILL waterproof. Then you can tile. No primer needed for shower, but waterproof membrane. A MUST! I hope this helps

@@reinaldoknows993 okay, so sounds like unless I see cracking in the grout I should be okay? It was a large expense and I like how it looks but it’s not draining well I think because the angle of the shower floor and because we didn’t move the drain from the left side to the center. But I’m going to try and get a prefab shower floor/pan installed and keep the tile walls but I’m getting conflicting reports. Thank you!

I'm thinking of doing a small remodel but I will have to modify a section of a wall so part will have the paint that is there already and the new section new sheetrock. Do I have to finish the wall completely before putting the stone tile (paper joint, compound, etc)?

You will be fine! Don’t need to finish the wall as the stone tile will cover the seam just make sure it’s braced.

Hope that helps!

@@reinaldoknows993 thank you!

You can tile over anything, primer depends on the surface you’re working with. Over a wall sometimes the thinset tends to slide when you trowel and try to skim coat. Personally, I like to prep my wall/floor regardless. For the walls if it’s not hardie, I’ll add something to give texture so your thinset could bond and adhered way more effectively over just a painted wall. Hope this helps! I’m over cautions lol but hey it’s doing me well in business. Take care

@@reinaldoknows993 that's great. So the skim texture that's currently on the wall has been dried for months now. The guy sipped out on me and im trying to do it myself. So its green drywall cause the guy said i did not need backer board then a thin skim for texture. He knew i was going to put tile. Im trying to see if and how to prep it prior to adding subway tile/ kitchen back splash.

This product no, I double checked specs and doesn’t say it can withstand the heat. You will need to find a product specifically for that. Hope this helps

@@reinaldoknows993 thanks for taking the time on that my friend. Much appreciated

If I’m understanding correctly, yes you could install tiles in a shower ceiling. If that’s what you were asking.

@@reinaldoknows993 Can you put the tiles directly onto the knockdown ceiling?

I’m sorry, I’m not sure if I understand your question. You don’t sand paint if that’s what you’re implying

@@reinaldoknows993 He seems to be thinking, correctly, that your bond will be to the paint film and not the substrate. He is correct. Sanding the paint really isnt the answer though. Better to install new substrate. 1/4" cement backer is a decent solution if you cannot remove the drywall and mudcaps work well to smooth the transition between tiled and drywall areas.

For someone who didn’t know the product he sure gave you the wrong information lol yes only way to apply is with roller. Prep cause it is a loose liquid. I’ve been using for years never a problem.

When you say prep… could you be more specific? I plan on doing this tonight… Is the viscosity low enough that I can use the product as is, or do I need to mix it well and cut with… ? What is the best clean up product when finished? MEK? Thank you for this video and for helping me with my project.

It never hurts to use products for longer lasting results. If you tile before, you would know it’s not easy to trowel drywall with this product it’s a better motion and coverage.

Also it was to show tiling to a painted drywall surface.

It’s tough to give you an accurate answer without seeing. If this is in a water area than aqua will be fine because you need the waterproof. But honestly even if this isn’t in a water area you should be fine to tile over the aqua. Regardless either product will prep the surface for you in order to have a better surface to trowel. You could also email me pictures and I can give a better resolution for you. Hope this helps

If you’re using subway tiles or mosaics/backsplash yes. I would never just use mastic on a drywall surface or bare plywood without any primer to backing.

I understand what you mean. In that situation use hardie board

This video screams experience, reliable, trustworthy and things done right!!

That's a big negatory ghost rider

Adhesion promotion is probably the best thing all DIY tile people can hope for. Since all DIY tile people are not professionals, we can use all the adhesion promotion we can get. Juice McDouche.

You’re a fool, if you watch the video it clearly says you can apply tile with thin set. HOWEVER! It will make it easier and will bond/LAST a lot better than just applying thinset. Stop looking to dog someone just to do so. You make yourself look dumb.