Charles Albert bouldering in Fontainebleau, Magic Wood and Val Bavona Video shows the process on No Kpote Only and some mellow climbing in Fontainebleau and Switzerland, including the FA of a spectacular 8B in Val Bavona
Not definitely v17 but yeah. It's always so hard to tell how hard a boulder actually Is from video. It's almost always harder than it looks. You can't really feel it. Also you can't even really see the Crux in the original angle
drew13600 to be clear it wasn’t a suggested downgrade. Rather it was stated that he believed it to be in the V16/V17 range but felt Burden was harder. That being said his own experience with high end bouldering is limited. But I believe he has also done Burden from a move in. So depending on how things pan out in the future No Kpote could be a V17, but on the softer end. It could also be a harder 16. But more climbers need to reach that level for such consensus. One or two opinions is t much to go off of.
This video was edited so well, crossing that threshold into a short climbing “film.” Beautifully done and a great introduction of Charles to a wider audience. Thanks for this much needed reprieve from the COVID blues!
Tobias Thiel “off the wagon” is this boulder problem in Switzerland, none of the climbers have used foot to get past this move. Do a quick search on RU-vid and you will see
I'm more concerned about the lack of crash pads on those sharp rocks he repeatedly nearly slams his back/elbows into than I'm interested in the lack of shoes.
I'm a barefooted climber and enjoyed it so much when I saw someone else doing it, and doing it 3x better than I. Apologies to all the folks who think its gross, barefoot climbing just feels so natural; and feels even better when your feet evolves to handle all the sharp boulders.
@@alucard9668 I dunno... I saw him doing some stuff I don't think would be possible with shoes, using his feet more like a second pair of hands. Admittedly I'm biased, though. xD
@@alucard9668 I'd say it's the opposite. He can do more with his feet than the rest of us who use shoes. think of it as gloves. No climber in their right minds would use gloves, because they know they'd be losing grip and precision. Same goes for the feet, although you have to train them harder as they're used to being protected all the time. But I guess that someone who walks barefoot all the time would actually progress quite quickly.
I would love to see Giuliano or Daniel trying No Kpote Only. Super impressive by Charles though, that shoulder move out right seems insane. And he broke the Off The Wagon beta?
the crux of off the wagon is the throw right to the first hold in the crack, then getting hand positioning right to one arm it, so yeh he broke the beta by using a ladder to skip the crux
@@bboyHarrypotter Doesn't have to be a rose move, numerous pros have done it with matching. It's obviously just the better style and at that grade it's all about the style
@@IliaNadyrbayev Yes of course it doesn't have to be it, as Ryuichi Murai has recently showed us. The two dominant betas for that part seem to be matching, and the rose move. Matching is much higher percentage (you don't need to hit the crack perfectly since you can readjust) but more exhausting. The rose move is much lower percentage (you have to hit the crack pretty well) but is less exhausting. Mr. Albert's beta here is interesting. It looks very difficult to pull up into that position with a high foot - he cheated by popping off the ladder. But if you have the strength/flexibility to do it, it seems very high percentage.
There is a metaphor about the future, present, and past in the movement of a ship and its wake behind it. I appreciate what Brene Brown said in an interview with Chase Jarvis on Creative Live that those in the arena's voices count not those in the cheap seats. No matter what I do I keep this in mind and also understand why people in the arena often don't read the general public commentary. We can appreciate both new developments and those pinnacle moments of the past in the current. Have you seen the athletes at the Olympic games 100 years ago ..., especially gymnastics? It is okay for a sport to evolve that isn't personal. History has alot to teach us not only in retro recycling but in the incremental climb.
Ok, so next time someone asks for advice to buy climbing shoes, I'll say, 'Do you crack climb? No? Do you do granite, or gabbro? Alpine multi-pitch, no? Then you don't need any shoes. We do, however, have a good quality organic foot cream over here... What did you say your name was..?'
yeah nice.. very hard.. but why nobody spot him? there are so many ppl in there just watching.. the guy almost hit his head few times with those rocks on the floor.. very cool climbing but less recording a more safety I suggest..
sigma stodon I think a Japanese climber graded it 16/17 8C+/9A, but that guy hasn’t done a v16 before so as hard as it is, I’d take the grade with a grain of salt
Stop exagerrating things. He says he thinks Burden is harder yes, but he never says significantly. He has also done 8C+ albeit post-kpote and also a Charles Albert problem. I do agree though Ryohei was being conservative about being open and more decisive on a downgrade but time will tell. Can't wait to see what else Ryohei is yet to do and how strong he is.
