You are a wealth of knowledge! I helped rebuild and install a couple engines when I was a kid/teen and it is nice to brush up on some of the things I learned!
@@Shop209 its running good sounds so nice with the longtube headers ..... my gas pedal linkage is loose. I need to change it. Or. Cut its to long now. . .
@@Shop209 barely gonna watch it my phone. die barely got home n charge my phone .. thanks ill watch it and if i have any questions ill ask. Thanks again
I agree with this procedure. My variation is with the initial advance setting. With the harmonic balancer line set about 2 degrees, I connect 12 volts to the “Bat +” terminal and a test light to the tach terminal. I turn the distributor until the rotor is upstream from the number one post. Turn the distributor counter clockwise until the test light comes on indicating coil collapse initiated. That’s close enough for an easy start. I’ve done this with points and HEI and it never fails (even that one time when I put the plug wires on the cap counter clockwise).
As far as setting the distributor timing, once you get it installed and ready to crank, unplug any vacuum advance(make sure hose is plugged after) set initial timing with a timing light to where you want it and then rev engine to about 2800rpm. Check total timing. You will need a dial back timing light for this. I have a video planned for this.
I'm about to do this, been working on my 350 5.7 vortec for awhile, my profile picture shows it. It came out of a 99 tahoe that I converted to carb. I installed a dual plane high rise air gap intake manifold, (Weiand 8502 sbc vortec speed warrior) the exact one they showed on Engine masters with david freiburger and the 2 steves, they show that it's equivalent to the Elderbrock RPM performer air gap manifold on the dyno, and in my David Vizard high performance 350 build guide book. Long tube headers, MSD 8362 Street Fire HEI Distributor, 8mm spark plug wires and a 1406 elderbrock 4 barrel 600 cfm carburetor. I may try making a video of it if all goes well! 😁
Great video! Just now found your RU-vid video. I have a question regarding my 89 Chevy 350. My truck would not start, I had no spark on the number one plug. It's got 150k miles so I figure it's time to install all new parts. I had the rotor pointing toward #1 plug before removing the distributor. I installed the distributor with all new parts and a new primary coil, started right up and ran smooth. But on this model you supposed to unplug the advance timing plug and set timing on TDC, then plug back up and set timing on TDC. With the advance timing plug unplugged, the truck will not start. I don't think the engine was on the compression stroke when my timing mark was at TDC mark before removing distributor. Could my timing be completely off?
So i did my first star up ..everything's whent good until my distributor got out of place since i didnt bolt it tight ..... then..... i did everything again n i was getting misfire . Turn off on me . So idk. Maybe my timing
@@Shop209 I meant telling someone it's at T.D.C. Besides just putting it at zero doesn't always work if the balancer is off. Or on exhaust nor compression. Use a screwdriver or flashlight see where exactly the piston is.
I showed how to get to TDC on compression by watching the intake valve open and then close. The next time timing mark is at zero is TDC of compression. As far as the balancer being wrong, that was covered in the engine assembly video. At this point it would be more if a troubleshooting issue if it’s off. I’m not if fan of sticking stuff in cylinder to feel for piston.
