You know, I'm having the same situation now. I'm glad I watched this to give me more understanding of my situation, which is very similar to the same situation you just explained. 👍
It’s a bad throttlebody. Replace the entire throttlebody assembly including the TPS and IAC. It’s not your spark plugs, it’s not your coils, it’s not a vacuum leak… it’s exactly what I said it is
So were the lifters good? I have a p306 code rn; ny radiator is leaking. I’ve already replaced the vlom and cyl 7 lifter before. Could it be the radiator leaking?? Haven’t confirmed if it’s the radiator or hose.
I just had my truck fixed today. I did what that guy did spark plugs and wires and it showed # 7 was back firing so I changed the ignition coil. Didn't work. I was going to advance auto parts getting the codes. So I took it to a shop and they did a full diagnostic test and it was my mass air flow sensor. They changed it and running great for now. Hope this helps.
My 2018 Chevy Silverado did this a few days ago. Check engine light started blinking, traction control light came on, started to run rough and down shift really hard and my oil pressure gauge was all over the place. I got a message from onStar saying my transmission has an issue. Started it this morning and all the symptoms were gone. Where do I even start to figure out what this was haha
I've been chasing similar problems on my Buick. Initially, I thought I had a bad ground or harness connector problem, but I think I finally traced the problem to its root: the fuse/relay box in the engine compartment. I slipped a washer under the two bolts that secures the box down and it seemed to allow the fuse box to seat deeper into the connectors and created a better connection. There's videos on YT explaining the issue in better detail. Permanent fix is to buy new fuse box and change any bad connector wires.
Same thing happened to me. Than i changed the spark plugs and wires. Thought it could be a cool but never replaced those. It was the Temperature sensor in your transmission. Drop the transmission pan and change the temperature sensor and add about 7 quarts new mobile one synthetic. Check the map sensor as well. That’s 50 bucks get the AC Delco one. Always get OEM replacement parts
Have the vehicle scanned. My garage & auto part store does for low cost or free. A mechanic can explain the scann code result more. This info. could help you fix.
I have a chevy tahoe and i have the same problem when I start the tahoe the light is off but when I turn the Stern wheel it comes on or when I put the tahoe in drive it comes on what could be the problem
This can be happening on yours when their is wheel movement. Some obd/2 scanners can reveal which one of the wheel abs SENSOR, CONNECTOR OR WIRE is dirty/unplugged/broken. Four wheels= Four sensors, one sensor is on each wheel. This sensor is looking at the back of the brake rotor (disk) , the DISK could be dirty/rusted. Try cleaning abs connector insides with electrical cleaning spray. its wire inside rubber could be broken. Hope helps
Feel free to submit a video of your car issue. Ill post it and try to help you out. If not, you might get some help from other viewers. Text to (551) 239-2438.
6:26 of my life I’ll never get back… you could have made this video in 2 minutes if you wouldn’t have “ummed”, cleared your throat every 11 seconds and stumbled over your own words…
The situation in this situation is that the situation is taking the situation too long to explain the situation of the situation that you're trying to explain the situation of. I got to be honest, listening to this guy for 5 minutes and 26 seconds did nothing but make my brain hurt. Does listening feel like they're about to have an aneurysm?
I have a question ✋🏽! If changing the plugs, coils and wires was the solution to your “situation,” why is it that the “Stabilitrak” and “Traction Control” warnings, as well as your engine light still lit up like a 🎄!? I am not saying you are full of shit or anything, just that I don’t understand how that is a logical “situation!” Also, though I did see one video where the solution to this “sitchiation” did end up being a fried coil, 99% of my hours of research has been focused on sensors and/or grounds! The crankshaft position, brake position and throttle body position sensors seem to be the main culprits. The other solves I seen for these symptoms have been wiring and grounds. I am no expert, but it rationally stands to reason that if your issue has been resolved, your indicator lights would no longer be prompting you that there’s still a “situation!!!” 🤯
