Cleaning my EBPS to help Milage and performance. On Auto Enginuity Pressure dropped from 34 to 19 at idle on one of our trucks and noticable power increase. Sorry battery went dead while I was under the truck on the camera.
This is AMAZING!!! Two years ago my 2002 F350 started mysteriously stalling in Colorado (I Live in Tucson) during Winter Trips. Up until last weekend, I would actually have to plug my truck in, even in 80 degree weather to get it started. I figured it was time for injectors or an HPOP. ( My truck's 225,000 miles are all mine. I'm the only owner) I did this cleaning. I removed all four pieces....Sensor, Bracket, Tube, and fitting on the Manifold. It was about as bad as yours. This morning in Tucson it's 40 degrees and it started on a normal ignition/glow plug cycle with out having to plug in the block heater! This preventative maintenance is just as important as oil, brakes, or any other PM we do on these trucks. GO CLEAN YOUR EBPS!!!!! Its easy! I'm not sure about the fuel economy, but my truck would not start!
The only bad part about this video is that I didn't find it sooner, LOL! I sincerely want to thank you for posting this! My truck wouldn't cold-start if it wasn't on the block heater ...and I live in California ag-land. It made a bigger difference than changing my injectors did
S.G.S. is awsome . My 94 7.33di has been running rough for about 4 months . And had many try an fix it. All but 1 failed. S.G.S.and youtube fixed it in less than 2 hrs. Thank you so much David Young
Very very helpful. Thanks for taking time to make this. I thought the EBP would be behind the turbo.......and now I see how much easier my day is going to be. Thanks.
On my 2000 Ford Excursion 7.3, I simply remove the sensor, spray carb spray down the tube, run the spedo cable core in/out, twist it. Then I blow compressed air into the tube, to assure it flows freely. The soot and carb spray simply goes into the exhaust, harmlessly blown out.
Very helpful video. My 2002 excursion is throwing a P1284 code that has to do with the IPC and/ or pig tail. I replaced both of these and still shows this code. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I did this job on my 2000 Excursion, approx. 12-15 years ago. If I remember correctly, I removed the sensor and used solvent and a spedo cable core, to snake the tube. I think I left the tube in place, reasoning that the debris would jut go into the exhaust and blow out the tailpipe. But, it was a long time ago and I might be mistaken, about leaving the tube in place.
Believe it or not it really was Autozone I was surprised that is wasn't a factory only piece. There was a little bit more power but the big thing was economy it definitely helped us out towing.
Hi, Does anyone knows if it works for a 3tl as well, we don't have many big trucks here in Australia, they are all a round the 3lt engines. cheers, topduke....
There is not any fuel in it it's an air sensor ... Nice video I did this to my truck made a huge difference not really in power but ran smoother and power was more consistent through the whole power band
Hey there love this video did you ever get a chance to work on the international t444e ??? I have a roll back tow truck i wanted to get that done aswell im the second owner im sire it needs a clean
Having a crazy question. Did that being clogged up affect your shifting? I'm having extreme hard shifts right now from second to third sometimes first a second. It has a t6 tune I know I should get Hydra but it came with a truck and exhaust straight pipe intake. Usually have it on the three setting on the tune and not driving hard but it is a 7.3 so you have to give it at least quarter throttle to get going and it shifts extremely hard what could cause that problem no codes no flashing anything
BE CAREFUL: The big part that you need a deep socket to remove (the actual sensor) broke off the second I tried to loosen it, so not only do I need a new sensor I had to order a new bracket too since the bottom little metal part of the sensor is stuck in it. So now I'm out 75 bucks because I tried to do this, just a warning. 1:44 just below that big gold nut where it attaches to the bracket is what broke off.
I have yet to see a video that shows the actual removing of the compression nut at the manifold. It's always stop motion and then here it is. It is extremely difficult to get that nut to turn without stripping or twisting the tube. I usually just cut the tube at the nut and put a 6 point socket on it and change the whole thing instead of trying to work through the hole in a fender inner liner which is not big enough to work at all.
