Climbing How To: Multi pitch bolted anchor belay set ups

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Want to buy me a coffee or the boy a dog treat? www.buymeacoffee.com/jbmountain Whether it's sport or trad, bolted belays can be great. I use them a little differently to regular trad anchors and in the one I explain how.
Fire away with those questions!
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Опубликовано:

17 май 2020

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Комментарии : 55

@FlatOutFE 2 года назад

I think a video of how you belay the leader from a multi-pitch bolted anchor would be good.

@jimcross730 4 года назад

Love it. Every day a school day. Thanks for showing the various options.

@realrocksrhyming8910 Год назад

I attempted my first multipitch today, it was unsuccessful but it was a good learning moment... i need to do more homework. our anchors were messy and I was inefficient. in many aspects of multi pitching, its a completely different game than single pitch.. im humbled by today

@jamesshilling1332 3 года назад

great video, sliding x with limiter knots...might as well make it a quad, then you can utilise both strands of the sling for something.

@grahammckinna1070 3 года назад

Love it. I've been ravenously devouring and digesting the content here for a little while now. Plenty of little tweaks and tips have been much appreciated, friend. One bit jumps out at me here around the 9 minute mark. Rather than clipping that extra bit of sling up and out of the way, it looks like you've got enough to bring that leg of the clove back to the first contact point and throw another overhand in, giving you a second strand in your master point. Sort of a "we have the material in the system already so why not use it" type deal, right? May not always have enough material left on that second leg though, depending on how far apart the bolts are. Cheers! Again, absolutely loving the content here. Thanks for all you do. About to go buy me a shirt.

@JoeKunsch 3 года назад

not a huge fan of the last one with the single strand of sling for the master point. I am sure it is fine if it is 5.easy and the follower is likely to not fall. options! love that saying now. great video!

@Lambda25 3 года назад

Really unsure about the last one, both people being secured just through a single loop of dyneema with an overhand in it... I understand its top roping your second so force should be low but that's a lot of trust in a bit of dyneema. You might be redundant to the two bolts in the rock but otherwise that's a single point of failure. What happens if the bottom bolt fails and you and your second shock load that dyneema sling?

@JBMountainSkills 3 года назад

Want to buy me a coffee or the boy a dog treat?!

@xcvelo 4 года назад

another nice video JB, I like the keep it simple approach. Do you have any concerns about knotting and therefore halving the strength of the sling? Both the belayer and following climber are on the same sling.

@jeremyballard7461 4 года назад

On the last example could you clip your guide plate into the loop in the sling above the overhand and below the clove hitch to give a little space?

@chriswiles8617 Год назад

Would you use smaller screwgates especially the ones attached to the bolts ?

@Alyogyne1 4 года назад

Your method between ca.

@brunoortiz1049 Год назад

How do you clove in to the anchor if there is no belay ledge? Or just hang on to the anchor and clove one handed?

@1146josh 3 года назад

Could you explain the clip it and flip it that gives you redundancy on the sliding x at 5.56

@mountbeckworth1 4 года назад

Just a query, if I might. Your sling seems to be dyneema, and therefore has no stretch. On a multi-pitch, if the leader fell, you would be lifted up, shockloading the system. Or if they fell before placing any gear, the force would be downward. Is that ok?

@mikecallaghan7943 4 года назад

Great videos when this covid is over will certainly be booking a course. 👍👍👍

@bradyrussin6292 2 года назад

What would you recommend for a belay device when top belaying between the BD atc guide and petzl reverso? Is one significantly better or is it more of a preference?

@xsuperbmentality 3 года назад

When you belay for the second pitch do you keep the device on the anchor or move it back to your belay loop?

@simonlpoisson 3 года назад

You better use a dynamic sling for the anchor bro ! Dynamic !

@Mr96danwright 4 года назад

when your second reaches you and gets ready to lead the next pitch, do you take the belay off guide mode and clip it to your rope loop and lead belay as usual?