Clockmaking - How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop - Part 6 - Crossing Out The Wheels 

How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop, Part 6, by Clickspring.
In this video, I get started on the wheel crossings. Included in this video is some drilling, scroll sawing, using a bench filer and a whole lot of hand filing with needle and escapement files.
I also show the use of an ingenious marking out jig, designed by J Malcolm Wild. You can find out more about this jig in his book "Wheel And Pinion Cutting In Horology". You can also learn more about my version of his jig here: www.clickspring...
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Cameras used in this video:
Panasonic GH5 - amzn.to/2rEzhh2
Panasonic X920 - amzn.to/2wzxxdT
Tools & Shop Products:
Dykem 80300 Steel Blue Layout Fluid, Brush-in-Cap (4oz): amzn.to/2HGPaJJ
"Solidworks 2013 Bible": amzn.to/2FObS1D
"Machinery's handbook": amzn.to/2pi7XE5
Hegner Scroll Saw: amzn.to/2IhteVW
Super Pike Saw Blades Size 4/0 pkg of 144: amzn.to/2IO6aPw
Optivisor Headband Magnifier: amzn.to/2HFg1FU
For more info on this build, as well as other tool making info and plans, visit www.clickspring...
Other Videos to Watch:
How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop - Part 5 - Cutting The Pinions
• Clockmaking - How To M...
Home Machine Shop Tool Making - Machining A Tailstock Die Holder For The Sherline Lathe - Part 2
• Home Machine Shop Tool...
Ask Me A Question:
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Abbreviated Transcript:
01:09 I'm doing the marking out with the help of this jig. Its based on the design by J Malcolm Wild. Check out the description box for more info. The wheel is centered on a locating pin, and then a center point on the top of that pin assists the scribing of any circles with a divider. So that takes care of the perimeter and the central boss.
01:39 Once that's complete, specially turned pins are inserted in the center hole, and around the perimeter at each of the spoke positions, so that when a ruler is held up to the pins, they define the spoke taper and then the line is simply scribed. Its a huge time saver, and I find I get a much more consistent result with this jig than without.
04:26 The next step was to tidy up the scroll saw cut with this bench filer. I mainly use these #2 cut files, which are good at removing metal fast and leave quite a good finish. You can see here the real value of this machine.
05:57 So at this point, I'm short of the line by about the same amount around the whole wheel, and I'm ready to start the hand filing.
06:13 And I made life a bit easier for myself with the filing, by making this guide. My CAD program gave me the geometry to machine the correct shape, and using a guide will give me a fair shot at getting a consistent result for all 8 spokes.
07:18 The next few days will be spent hand filing. So I'm setting up at the bench with plenty of light, magnification, and some needle and escapement files. Most of the files have at least one safe edge ground into them, to help cut cleanly into the corners I started out with #2 cut files, to get the wheel into basic shape, and I did every surface with the same cut before moving to a finer cut.
08:36 Next up is the finishing work with #6 cut files, and from here on I'm working without the guide, so I can get a good look at what I'm doing as I work.
09:28 And now we're basically on the home stretch. The wheel is ready to have the inside edges papered, and then burnished. The little strips of sandpaper I'm using are held around a file that best suits the shape I'm working on. I'm starting out with 600 grit. Then 800 grit
09:49 Followed by a quick touch with the Rodico to remove the brass shavings, before finally finish off with the burnisher, to give a mirror finish. Burnishing also pushes up a burr, so another quick papering deals with that.
References:
J Malcolm Wild Wheel Crossing Jig
"Wheel And Pinion Cutting In Horology"
www.amazon.com/...
www.j-m-w.co.uk/
John Wilding workshop and clock construction books:
www.ritetimepub...
I purchased mine from Ian Cobb at: www.clockmaking...
How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop, Part 6, by Clickspring.