Great progress on my favorite YT Corvair. I'd like to recommend that while you have the headlight doors/ trim off that you pull the headlight buckets to scuff and give a coat of gloss black. Be sure to lightly sand to bare metal the ground wire surfaces.After reinstalling the ground wires dab a bit of paint on the screw to prevent rust and lock the screw at the same time. Pretty sure you found the reason for the oil leak and yes that is the oil pressure sending unit. Time to get a manual out and trace out the wiring. I think the oil filter adapter you added is to allow a more readily available oil filter. The filter you have in your hand is the original equipment equivalent. The oil pan showed signs of over tighten when you removed it. If there is a need to remove it again put on the edge of solid surface and tap down each bolthole flat. Then torque to specs. Good choice of oil. Keep up the good work. I'm still am on the hunt for an early 4dr Corvair.
I Appreciate the advice! I actually already painted the headlight buckets, they had white over spray from when the car was previously painted. I also noticed the pan had been over tightened and when I had it off and flattened the holes as best as I could as well as the washers for the bolts! I should have mentioned that in the video.
The best viscosity of oil for an air cooled engine is 20-w-50. It holds up a lot better than 10-W-40 due to the excessive heat. that's what a friend runs in his Porsche. Just a suggestion.
Ever try California Corvairs in Chino Ca? Jeffs a good guy and has grip of parts new and used. Not like clarks but also not as expensive. Learn to make your own gaskets and you will never need to order again. Well not for the simple ones like the oil adapter.
I had a bad habit of WD40 coating all screws on the car. That way when I needed to remove them they were not rusted up solid(especially suspension pieces). That valve in the oil cooler section is the bypass valve. Hopefully, it isn't frozen shut. Tighten the bolts down in a crisis cross. I think the oil pan bolts were probably tightened to torque specs which are very light torque. That nail even if it punctured the tire is fixable. Make sure you flatten the bolt holes on the oil pan. Use light torque or have the pan leak forever LOL That Shell oil is partly synthetic so it should be good to go.
My '60 Corvair's engine is just covered in oily gunk on the bottom. It also seems to be leaking very slightly, but I really hope it's just something to do with the oil pan and nothing else. Great video, as well.
Most wear happens at start-up, but you want something that can also handle the heat and has proper zddp levels for the old engine. I would recommend Mobile 1 ESP 5w40 diesel oil. It doesn't have the grotesque amount of calcium that most diesel oils have, but still has 1000+ zinc and it has a great reputation in both diesel and gas engines. I was able to grab 16 gallons of it for cheap from a local guy just south of DFW area (what part of TX are you in?). Some people swear by 20w50, but it's slow to circulate at start-up and it's not going to handle breakdown from heat as good as a quality synthetic will. I would use 15w40 Rotella before a 20w50 for a motor that's spec'd for 10w30.
Hey B B Corvair ! little late here but everything is looking good sad to see the nail in the new tire ! Hate when that happens Seriously! Have You tried using a different oil filter other than Clark's brand I run NAPA 1038 gold in mine & they are made by WIX filters & if your local NAPA carries them You will not have to pay a shipping charge from Clark's & if NAPA does't carry them they'll get them in & I just order them by the case , Looking forward to the next video.
Haha I like the new name! That sounds like a better idea, I didn't know napa made one that fits until after I ordered the Clark's. I'll most likely run Napa in the future.
@@benbencorvair9071 that’s ok neither and I but I’m just trying to get this old car back up and running. If you are ever in the area let me know Dmpdretired@gmail.com Thanks and the best to you
