That's for the callout! Big fan! Yeah, I got burned by the CR-10 Pro also- gave it a thumbs up because mine was ok, turned out everyone had problems. Very embarrassing. Now I pull them out of the stack myself at the factory but these early firmware versions Creality keeps shipping new printers with really don't impress me😕 It's a problem...
Thanks for dropping by. Myself and everyone in the community is thankful for all the work you have done dragging Creality forward with your honest feedback.
They should offer the Hot End to upgrade Other models. My CR10S5 Bed is not possible to manual level without tape and paper shimming the bed. Auto leveling would help newcomers greatly.
For 1000 they should have all the issues sorted out. The fan duct and not having updated firmware is just plain lazy. Experienced people can work around the issues but newbies like we seen with the pro have nothing but issues. It needs to be ready out of the box for that price tag
I agree it is poor form and not for beginners. At least the ABL issue is fixed, which to my knowledge was the biggest headache for newbies. (Also I love Tekken)
Mmmm personally i now see this "issue" as another example of how business culturally works in China.. see Serpentza RU-vid channel as he has one video that explains how this works. Once i understood i was aware and not so offended. It still means Creality need to adjust their own awareness, to other business cultures when selling products internationally imo Laurie
Teaching Tech great videos as always, I respect the fact that you bring honest reviews for the consumer and not a corporate puppet. Definitely earned my sub and look forward to more great info.
That was just a really fun watch and a great review. I enjoyed seeing it compared to a cr10s pro for scale. The inclusion of a BL touch was quite a welcome surprise as equally the unwelcome surprise of the lack of thermal runaway protection. How they can be so responsive to feedback and agile to hardware improvements but can't manage to tick off thermal protection when the source code is right there ready to go just boggles my mind. In any case, really looking forward to seeing what ginormous prints this thing can pull off.
With a printer that size you could print its own table for it to sit on. Great video. Looking forward to see what you do with this. Keep up the good work.
OH MY!! Yet another machine.. so many machines, so many slicers, so may upgrades, so many types of filament...PLA...PETG etc. As a novice it is hard to navigate the course. I'm happy with my Ender 3 and Simplify 3D. PLA is fine but have given up trying to use PETG.. I just want to print things.. I'm hoping it will all get better fast. Reminds me of the early days of computers...DOS and modems..etc.. Enjoy your videos. I'd like to see a series for beginners..Pick one unit, one slicer and gradually build up our skills. I'd pay for a course like that!!!
Michael, for cable management I use a large cable tie, around 8-10mm wide and 500mm long cable-tied to the loom to keep a graceful arc in the loom. Cheap, easy, effective.
Why not an elastic like the ones used in fabric. I have one on both my printers. Works well and because it stretches it doesn't have the problems of a more rigid attachment. Probably not a big deal but there it is.
Some of those returning issues are surprising to see come up again, but over all this is a pretty impressive looking machine. I'm mostly just dismayed about the thermal runaway issue still being present.
I just can't see using a printer this big. The time it would take to print anything that would need this size is gonna be crazy. I'm very happy with the Ender3 and think it's the perfect size.
a note about the packing, i have 3 creality printers, all were delivered by UPS, all 3 the boxes were beaten to hell, and all 3 were completely undamaged on the inside i was blown away that creality managed to defeat the angst and general lack of care UPS applies to all its packages in my city
@@charlie_jack_chi If you google a retractable ID badge holder you will see the thing he is talking about. You attach one side to the very top rail of the printer and attach the bundle of cables to the other side of the ID badge holder. I hope this helps!
Hey Michael I've noticed it a few times but especially on this video, there's a weird flickering happening I assume with your lights and the cameras fps. You can notice it on your shirt as well as the build plate.
I've noticed it too depending on the lighting. Camera is set to NTSC 30fps and main room light is 50hz. Hoping to improve the lighting in the room to eliminate this.
I tried Creality's alcohol trick to remove prints and it works... Lost count on how many surfaces I ripped before. Also tried hairspray for PETG and TPU both in Creality's surface and Prusa PEI sheet and it reduces the stickyness just enough so you can remove the parts without ripping anything. Also I usually remove springs on all my beds once the printers have autoleveling, I try to cut 4 equal pieces of aluminium tube and level the bed sanding them to exact size, once and forever.
you can buy the solid spacers here: www.aliexpress.com/item/32911227044.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2f5d4c4dvwugT2&fbclid=IwAR21W8EeVKoddS8_jgajYoLIyOU15OOTYRuT9AQ8GlBzOwE5JMbVUEGrc-o
Hey There great review! Ours just arrived, what CURA printer did you add? Is ther an update to include the Max Printer, or did you use a custom setting?
I will tell ya this, it's cool looking 😂🤣😂🤣 You really get into the details and I appreciate this. If I was to buy this printer it would only be based on your review.
Hey, are you planning on testing the CR-20 Pro? if not, do you at least have some opinion on it? I am currently looking to buy a 3D printer and so far I was thinking about getting an Ender 3 Pro, but I realised that after spending a bit for some of the upgrades I want, like BLTouch and Capricorn tubing, the price would be almost the same in my country. Do you have any recommendations on which would be better?
Fantastic going to buy one of these .Can the control panel be put away from the printer with extended cables an a enclosure be added for Abs and polycarbonate prints ? will the bed get hot enough for the abs and would one remove the bed springs completely ?
Another great video! I have a CR10S Pro, and wondering if you could take off the shield on the hot end give us a closer look at how they mounted the BL Touch. Is it the same hot end as the CR10S Pro? I am considering installing one on mine and just curious how Creality mounted it. Also, how long does that monster plate take to heat up? From what I see in this video, the CR10S Pro still seems superior.
Hi Michael, great review as always. The biggest problem I had with the CR10s Pro was the X gantry dropping down on the left side after power off, since linking the Z rods with a drive belt across the top this issue is now fixed. Can you tell me if CR10 Max suffers from this issue.
Great video Michael. Shame about the Thermal Overrun Protection yet again. Do you know when you are going to be covering the SKR 1.3 board you received?
Michael, can you also check out if it needs a connecting belt at the top to keep the hotend level across its travel? I have a Alfawise U10 and had been intending to do this...wondering if Creality have developed a better design etc? Thanks Laurie
It doesn't have one in place. I can't see any issues with z artefacts from this stage yet. I'm currently reprinting the SD print now that the bed wobble is gone and that should give a better idea.
So this is 450 by 450 by 470mm, my old CR10S5 is 500 by 500 by 500mm and costs less back when I bought it and still does now. So what am I missing ? Why the new smaller version for more money ?
Good video, thanks for the first review. I am curious what kind of hot end / heater block is on it as to support the 0.8mm nozzle at speed. That will be a lot of plastic it has to melt. Another thought is with that massive hotbed, how long is the heatup time and what are the acceleration and jerk setting. I looks like it might be like the Queen Mary turning.. slow. Also noticed solid stepper to z lead screw instead of the stranded spiral one. I like the diagonal braces, must be necessary with this height. Looking forward to your complete review.
It is probably the same hot end as the Pro, it would be nice if they went back to the standard hot end so there is no issue on getting nozzles for a reasonable price, or changing to a MS hot end on a machine that we already spend 1k on, for now I will be keeping my S5,lol. Thanks again for another great video
I’m willing to bet the z axis isn’t completely square as proper tie rods will have a right hand thread one end and left hand at the other. It is possible that printer may have a slight twist on the z axis. You showed you relied on those little brackets to hold it square. Aluminium does flex
Great first look Michael, looking forward to your full review. It is very disappointing that thermal runaway is still not enabled by default, although the addition of a genuine BL Touch is very welcome, it's made a massive difference to my #Borg. Clearly this needs a WhamBam bed.
I ordered this printer. I wanted the Pro but found one if these cheaper. Bigger is better? I was excited to get the Pro it felt like the right machine. Now the Max is due to arrive tomorrow and I am getting nervous, Have I jumped into the deep end!!!!! I had a M3D Mini plus which was shifting layers on anything I tried. I had to contract some one to help with a few prototypes so I could test fit and test the heat effects. then I sold the heads off my old 427 Chevy LS7 the money was burning a hole in my pocket. I have a large Oak desk that should work,
Seems interesting if I decide to make bigger props. Currently Ive come close to maxing out my cr10s build surface a few times. Im not sure how id feel about increasing my print duration from a few days to a week or so though.
finally a 3d printer big enough for a T-Rex to operate! looks like a really nice printer i really like my cr-10s pro though. my next printer though is going to have a stronger x axis. i want a printer that can support direct drive
I was sent a prototype from Creality 4-5 months before they released it. I did a Beta test for them and went over it very well. I see many of the things I told them about have not been addressed. The bed heater wire loom was a big issue I suggested they lengthen it and add a chain. Mine was so short it would not allow the bed to fully move rearward. The one I had used a double mosfet board for the bed heater and it smoked quickly. I suggested a SSR which I did install but you did not mention what is used there. The hotend wire loom was also another suggestion I made to them because it was hanging down and they routed the Capricorn tube through it. I suggested separate the two and use a better quality split loom that would not sag so much. I did that and it works great. There are many more things that were poorly done and I made suggestions to them how to make it better. The one I got did not have a BLTouch but still had their CR10s pro setup but oddly on mine it worked well. I did go with mirror glass for the bed which made it a must to go with a BLTouch so I did. Just funny how they would give me a $1000 printer for my effort (no complaints about that for sure) but then not take any of my suggestions and use them. Go figure. I still have a fantastic printer after I repaired all their problems. Cheers!
@@theogaillard5355 They found me and asked me. It seems I am too honest to be useful to them. I do not do reviews just love 3D printing. I was asked to beta test this machine and for a free printer why not. I did a comprehensive test and found a number of faults, some major. I documented them with video and pictures and a breakout text write up. I do love this printer but I had to spend a ton of hours and parts to get it right. I am very happy with what I have. But......I tell it like I see it and I bet they will not be asking me to do another. All good!
Those extra rods are not just to stiffen the frame. If you don't adjust them properly then you'll skew the vertical path forward, backward, or even add a twist even though it's still "rock solid."
It's making the best out of your printer. If you can solve problems and upgrade the printer with your own printer it's marvelous!at least your money isn't wasted
after I saw this video I went and bought CR-10 Max, I like the size and the touch Screen but the bed leveling and the Bltouch is bad I cant get a good first layer and I couldn't find any slicing profile not even on creality website I don't now if you faced the same issues and if you did how did you fix it. I'll be really grateful for your help.
For prints stuck to these printer beds, use a mixture of rubbing alcohol and water in a small spray bottle (75%RA/25%water) spray some around the base of the print (you can be generous as you can use the excess to wipe off the bed after) give it a minute to work its way under the print and then you should be able to pop the print off a fair bit easier.
Can you help me determine what parts i need to order from Creality to widen my Pro so I can fit the Z Axis Struts. They need to make this kit available to us and call it a 10S Pro Plus Upgrade Kit! I really want to do this and I have the struts I just need the two lower extrusions to widen the base outside the steel cover. Can you help me to achieve this upgrade? I can keep the 300X300 print space that is fine.
The Alfawise u20 plus is 400 x 400 x 500 and under $400. I know the Alfawise have their own issues but I think the U20 comes with mosfets installed. I have the U10 and have made a few upgrades which I don't mind doing given the price. Not sure why there are not more review of these printers from the bigger 3D printing channels. I have only seen one from 3DMN. Nice review though!
My last Alfawise printer was a disaster. Possibly an anomaly but Gearbest still tried to pressure me into being more positive despite it catching on fire so I'm in no hurry to take another printer from them.
@@TeachingTech You have to provide an honest opinion for sure. I was glad to see the thermal runaway on my U10 was enabled and now I have the mosfets installed I think it will be quite safe. I like the Creality machines too. We have several at work. It was ironic recently when we had a bunch of prints to do we had all sorts of problems on the Creality machines and so I ended up printing everything at home instead and got it to work fine. Keep up the good honest work!
Im a complete beginner with 3d printing allthough use to program cnc mills and lathes and am having fantastic results with this printer, for me it was pretty much plug and play and have made a few mistakes (operater error ) but overall that thrilled with the results plan to buy another one.Prints come off easily and have only printed pla so far but wish to try the upgrades and use petg carbon also.
What I would like to know is 1.) How high does the bed go (can you do ABS, and HIPS with a bed temp of about 100) 2.) What would be involved of sticking a volcano on it. We (FRC team 1989) are thinking of getting one to print big things like parts for pur 30x30x48in robot (or thereabout) which will take about 20kg of Filament. Right now all we got is a prusa clone which we would like to keep doing Gears on (nylon) as it has a garolite bed. But its a little too limited size wise.
I just tested and the bed can reach 110 degrees no problem. A volcano I haven't fitted but the mount is very similar to a regular CR-10 so it should be comparable.
@@TeachingTech Thank you now lets hope the sponsor comes through. Here is some the kids and me are working on forums.matterhackers.com/topic/6257/bumblebot forums.matterhackers.com/topic/6216/virt-1000-3d-print-impact-resistance-tester forums.matterhackers.com/topic/6210/404-1-planetary-on-a-pulse-attempt So the intent was originally to get a CR10-S5 but as they stopped that the goal now is a MAX especially as if the bed goes to 110 there is no need to spend 200 on an upgrade. The volcano though might be helpful unless you know another high-volume hotend. Now the .8 nozzle might help a little but probably wont increase speed by more then a factor of 2 as with ABS for example on a V6 the max flow rate is about 12-13 mm3/sec if you want decent layer adhesion which when sliced with a .4mm layer height and .96mm layer width comes to a max speed in the low 30s mm/sec or you get problems with the plastic not melting fast enough. you can check out my volumetric E video on that for details and the math behind it. BTW the material from ABS, HIPS, PLA, NYLON, PETG you can print the fastest on a V6 is HIPS at about 18 mm3/sec. Now according to microswiss their flow rates are comparable to the V6 and according to E3D the volcano melts about 2x the plastic in the same time so with that and a .8 nozzle we'd hope to use a 1mm nozzle and maybe push 45mm/sec speeds with good layer adhesion on ABS/PETG and close to 60 on HIPS. (Don't print any Taulman over 22)
Um, with the rods, if they are all the same and all the rods and ball screws are right-hand thread, is there no adjustment to pull or push the z-axis assembly into square? Shouldn't each end be opposite thread so the rods function like a turnbuckle - allowed slight adjustments in length of the rod assembly?
@@TeachingTech how? Rotating the rods would simply move the black metal sleeves back and forth. The only way to adjust the overall length would require removing one end of the rod, twist the ball head/eye bold a minimum of a half twist, and then reattach to frame.
Why can't they just enable thermal runaway protection? It's really mind boggling to me that they know it's an issue that people care about so why? I'm guessing they skip out on it for memory issues but at this price it's just not excusable, especially on something like this where you may be doing prints that last over a week.
Bonjour, Tout d’abord merci pour tes vidéos ! Aurais-tu trouvé une solution pour remplacer les ventilateurs de l’alimentation sur la CR10 MAX ? J’ai essayé de les remplacer par des Noctua mais le bed ne veux plus chauffer ensuite... aurait tu une solution ? Merci
I've had my eye on this printer for weeks now waiting for reviews and the consistent problems are making me really nervous. It would be my first printer, but I need a larger one as I wanted to work with a friend on cosplay and start up a small business with it. Creality often updates their printer firmware and hardware shortly after reviews like this from what I hear. Would you say it's best to wait a month or two after the general public release before buying it?
@@kj8168 I didn't end up going for it. A friend gifted me an old CR10S so i've been using that. Creality still has the CR6 Max on the kickstarter so maybe that's worth it?
Red King Rauri I’ve been looking at it for a large possibly cosplay printer. The problems don’t bother me as almost everyone has to fix something after they get a printer, and out of the box it has really good hardware
in your experience whats a good software to run for 3d printing? I'm thinking about getting an ender 3 pro, but want to make sure my computer can handle the rendering. Can you assist?
What a disappointment...I hate the LCD touch screen and terrible beeping sound. I was thinking about this but it looks like the CR-10 S 500 might be a better choice?
I like your approach to this printer. But I am trying to stay off the y bed swinging back and forth. In addition for having experienced 2 creality 3d printers. i am all crealitied out. I am waiting for something amazing to come out before buying more 3d printers. I spend most of my time fixing or replacing and tuning cheap components, eventually a $700-$1000 printer ends up costing double or triple in the parts i have to buy to get it to print decently. This one looks nice and it may work great but it seems limited by design.
Okay. I’m tired of reviewers and how they talk about how hard it is to remove prints with scrapers. The problem is the scrapers are blunt tipped. If u put an edge on it, removing prints becomes super easy. I took my scraper that came with my cr-10-v2 to a wet stone and now that it has an edge, it works amazing
Hey, i have been watching your channel for a long time and it has helped me alot learning how to print better. I have recently went from an alphawise ex8 to an ender 3 pro. I used ideamaker on the alphawise and i loved the slicer. However when i tried to set it up for the ender 3 pro i have a problem with the end gcode it seems to freeze up the printer when it finishes the print keeping the hotend and bed heated up and also freezes the screen so i cannot access the menus. I was wondering if maybe you could help me and others like me set up ideamakers gcode to work on our ender 3 pro. I tried to copy cura ender 3 start and end gcode to ideamaker but it gives an error on the end gcode
The printer seems to have a removable bed hold by some clips. I suppose it is made from FR4 like that of my Ender 3. So why not take this plate from the bed and flex it to get the prints off?
How well would this print TPU? I use a modified PLA that has a shore rating of 85, it's flexible, but not anything like ninja flex... much easier to print, but if I don't print slow (30-40mms) on my Prusa mk2 it tends to jam and spill out of the side of the gears. Creality states this will print TPU, but I've always read bowden tubes are jam-central while printing with it. I'm looking for a large print volume, but I'm guessing most of this size will have to use bowden setups to keep weight off the horizontal gantry and extruder.
I find it annoying that, after so many printer models, creality still makes silly mistakes. Most of the issues with their printers are obvious and easily resolved. Why do they keep letting them leave the factory like that?
If you upgrade the firmware you can modify the bed size to match the actual bed size which is 470x470mm. I set mine to 465x465 so I could print Astromech parts in one peice and it works well.
Must be a new month...a new Creality printer. The problem with big prints...they can use over 1kg of plastic per print, especially with 0.8mm nozzles. At that size, 2.8mm filament would make more sense.
Just buy a 4.5Kg filament roll of 1.75mm. I think you will find the difference between filament usage with larger nozzles compared to smaller ones is pretty much not worth worrying about. More material can be saved by changing wall thicknesses and infill. It still takes the same amount of material to make an item with the same overall parameters but with larger nozzles the time reduces. Just an observation of many hours spent printing.
I have found that the best thing to remove a print is a sharp chisel. It will not damage the print. You just put the sharp chisel edge under an edge of the print, twist gently, and then repeat at various edge points of the print. It should come off after only a few spots. The spatula is uselessly flimsy.
It's kind of the same situation as the original CR-10. For the build volume it's a very affortdable printer and the issues are relatively simple to fix. If you spend $1000 on a prusa mk3 S it will absolutely be a more set and forget printer but it can fit in this thing's build volume.
Would you be willing to build a Voron V2 and offer your impressions on it? They seem to be very well engineered corexy printers for ~$1000 (same price range as this cr-10 max) and 'apparently' rival Ultimakers. There is a lot of hype in the 3D printing community for it but no big channels are reviewing yet due to it's DIY nature.
Please do an update to this video. I bought this printer largely based on your review and the things you said about it. It is a decision that I deeply regret and nearly 2 months later I still do not have a working printer. The issue of course is the BL sensor, which I thought you said was fixed and the reason I purchased this. Well it's not fixed... or Creality knowingly let these things out into the wild to be sold to unsuspecting innocents. I reviewed Creality on Google maps in HK and the distributor in CA, however I think you should do your part and let people know there are still issues with this by publishing another update video. here is my Maps review: Creality allows its distributors to ship defective merchandise which they built. While buying a Creality CR10 Max, despite claims by Creality's official vendor "creality3d.shop" that my printer was undergoing "quality control checks", it arrived late and inoperable. After a week delay in response from their "tech support" I was told that the BL system was damaged in transit to me. I find that claim highly dubious because there was no visible scuff or damage of any kind to the shipping box, and the printer was tightly packed within the box. The only logical explanation is that a defective printer was knowingly shipped to me, and now, almost 2 months later I still do not have a functional printer because although they claim that they'll send a new replacement part for the defective merchandise they refuse to say when they will actually ship it; this has been going on for a MONTH - yet they continue to sell these printers on the internet claiming them as "in stock". After searching the Internet, I see that I'm not the only one who fell into this trap. In fact an early review of the product one year ago by a popular RU-vidr disclosed that "the main problem of this printer in the past which was the dodgy bed leveling sensor is completely fixed with the BL touch". This is not true and nothing is fixed - OR - Creality has knowingly distributed out all the printers with defective sensors to their authorized resellers for sale to the general public. Whatever the case, Creality and its distributors need to face scrutiny over their Internet commerce practices.
Ive found that I can trigger my thermal runaway just by grabbing my hotend with a chunky adjustable wrench when the silicone sock is removed. I was doing the final hot tightening on my ender 3 after doing a nozzle replacement and I thought I broke my thermistor wire somehow but when I looked at my temp graph I could see the wrench was acting as a huge heatsink and it was enough to trigger my runaway shutdown.
Hmm might be worth it for me in future but for now I think if I were to spend a grand on a printer I’d have to go with the CR-30 for all my sword needs. Other than that I think a few CR-10S and Ender 3 printers is all I would really need for now.
Once again Creality releasing a half baked product. I purchased a S5 even bigger a few years back. Came with a faulty board, they told me it was in my g-code and totally ignored me. Found a bad trace to the heated bed circuit. This taught me how to deal with sleazy Chinese products and the sales chain that sold it 3-d printer bay. (Thumbs down to them for actually calling me “needy”)!!!
Have many problems to balance the x-axses, does not work like shown in cr10s pro leveling video. Does anybody has expierience with that? My right side is 10mm higher then left side. Filament on the right side does not glueing to the bed
