Replacing some very old, crusty and rust wheel joints on the Dana 44 front axle going into my frame-up restoration 1974 Dodge Power Wagon Ball Joint Removal Tool: amzn.to/3k61mMZ
Nice video. Just did it this evening. I think one must realize an issue with this design of having the retaining clip on the inside. I think the "ears" that hold the bearing caps can come together closer due to the act of pressing the old bearing caps out... and for this reason, it is really hard to get the clips back in unless you file away a good chunk of the ear to accommodate the retaining clips.
That collar you transferred from the old stub axle to the new one should be included in the stub axle seal kit if you bought one. I bought BCA part #nbsbk4 and it was included. Great video, I’m enjoying this whole series!
If there R new learners on this very old subject. I stopped by here on this vid 4 a refresher course... The man does offer some info to be gotten. When removing the U joints themselves listen up. If ya have a harbor freight media blaster or even a hand held media blaster have at the thing spend some time getting rid of rust & caked on mud & yuck yuck on that joint. Soak it down over night with Aero Kroil or Blaster and soak it but good. In the morning use a propane torch preferably MAP GAS heat and it don't take a whole lot after that to USE A POINT ON YOUR AIR HAMMER AND THE U JOINT WILL LITERALLY FALL RIGHT OUT END OF STORY. #1 HAND CLEAN FILTH. #2 BLAST IF U CAN. #3 SOAK WITH PENETRANT OILS. #4 HEAT UP THEE CAPS AREAS TO BE REMOVED. #5 LITERALLY AIR HAMMER YOUR BRAINS OUT FOR A LITTLE WHILE. I DO SUGGEST EAR PROTECTION. WORKED LIKE A CHARM FOR ME. NO UNNECESSARY TOOLS AND CLUTTER OF OBJECTS. YOU CAN USE 2 SMALL SCREW DRIVERS AS WELL TO PRY OUT THE RETAINERS. WARNING MESSAGE IS THEY COME OUT A LOT EASIER THAN THEY GO BACK IN THERE!!!!! THE RETIANERS AND BEARINGS ARE THE HEARDEST PART OF THIS JOB SHOULD YOU NEED TO REPLACE THOSE BEARINGS THERE ARE ALSO MORE PRIMITIVE & EFFECTIVE WAYS TO GET THE BEARING RACES OFF. JUST INHALE HAVE A CIGARETTE AND THINK WHAT YOU HAVE IN TOOLS. If U get your axle all back together and it works I will personally send you our custom Yuck Yuck & FJB merit badges which you can proudly wear to any formal family holiday meal. AIR HAMMER AREO KROIL OR BLASTER. PROPANE TORCH. SUPPORT AND CENTER THE THING ON A WORK SURFACE IS ALSO THE KEY TO MAKING THIS A BREEZE. GALLED UP RACE AREAS JUST USE RED LOCK TITE PRODUCT. CLEAN WITH HEAT & ALCOHOL NO BRAKE CLEANERS OR CRAP LIKE THAT. STRAIGHT ALCOHOL WITH FIX THAT. IF ITS A SEAL AREA THAT IS PITTED REPLACE THAT SHAFT. BEWARE OF DURALAST SEALS AT AUTO ZONE. THEY ARE SLIGHTLY UNDER SIZED STUFF. GO TO NATIONAL OR TIMKEN OR YUKON THIS STUFF IS GETTING HARD TO GET.
Never heard those axle u-joints called wheel joints before and those "C" clips holing the caps on come out a lot easier if you smack the cap in toward the the cross, then remove the C clip. Another thing I have heard of but never done is installing a polly bushing instead of the needle bearing in the spindle especially when your trying to go cheap and save a stub shaft or can't get a replacement stub shaft fast enough to get back on the trail. The theory is the bushing kinda bridges over the pitting (If NOT to severe) and give you some more life in a pinch. ( I believe the bushings are also wider than the needle bearings) After you have driven the caps in and installed the C clips many times the joint is tight, smack the axle just behind the U-joint cap on the actual axle, Doing this will seat the C clips against the axle and give the needed room for free movement.
Never never tap the c-clips on with a hammer push them on by hand I found out the hard way when my drive shaft started to vibrate violently when you tap them on it bends them and mine fell off other than that great video
