you should also make a video about piston heads. while i understand the difference between a single and a dual O-Ring piston head, for the life of me i don't understand the difference between 8 holes and 16 holes, whats the difference between flat metal piston heads and conical rubber piston heads, and hole types and whatnot, what difference does it make and what's best to prevent suction when the piston is pushed back by the gears? and while at it, cylinder heads is also another topic that doesn't make much sense other than 1 O-Ring and 2 O-Rings to me. what's the benefit or drawback of a thick flat rubber feet and a conical rubber feet? it seems there's not much information online or at least someone which actually knows how to explain all this information as precise and as clearly as you do, for example your gears ratio explanation video made me understand the type of uses for each gear ratio in AEG perfectly, this video made me realise i really should only be buying full metal pistons and not settle for a nylon metal hybrid piston. i wanna learn more! lol
This is a great idea!! I will do this, I have a selection of different piston heads to demo as well! I have my upload planed for this week so I will try and do this for the week after. 😁 I appreciate your input as I'm always looking for the next idea for a video. Hopefully I can provide the answers you are looking for. 😁
@@MegaChickenPunch you're wrong, I've played with gearboxes quite a lot these 9 months and tested multiple different configurations and i can tell you for certain that a good cylinder seal alone = greater vacuum suction thrust from the nossle = faster gel velocity speed = better range. Aka a gel that's being fired at 450fps will reach further than one that's being fired at 180fps, And if you also upgrade the spring your gel velocity will be even higher which means an even further range. Doesn't mean its going to be accurate. But most of the questions i've had are mostly related to the cylinder, vacuum and use cases for different variations of each component of the cylinder pumping system. Either way, i dont understand why you even replied? Just for the sake of replying something completely out of context because you were bored?
Have you ever seen a full metal tooth rack fail at the pickup tooth? If not, it may be worth not having aluminum rubbing on your gearbox shell. pistons are fairly bulletproof these days.
It is true pistons are pretty durable provided the AEG is built correctly. Equally I have never seen additional wear from an aluminium slide. Remember most of the other moving parts in the gearbox are metal on metal contact too. So the additional durability of the pick up tooth is favourable in my opinion. 😁
definitely have a few contentions with this video. For one, there's definitely uses for a half metal rack piston. Secondly, aluminum body Pistons are pretty much just a hazard and your understanding of the benefits of the thicker pickup tooth is flawed. The issues with the most common SHS and ZCI plastic-bodied full metal rack piston similar to what you showed are 1) that there's gaps between the rack and the body and 2) the section of plastic behind the pickup tooth is usually too thin to consider the piston reliable especially considering poor tolerances and quality control inherent in this industry. It is for these reasons that you should fill in those gaps with EPOXY. this stabilizes the rack and strengthens the body, greatly reducing the chances of the rack blowing out the back of the piston. That thickened pickup section on the aluminum piston is not important to the strength of the tooth, it's important for spreading out the forces on the piston body. But I've seen some crazy failures on those pistons and I find it hard to imagine a scenario in which is would be preferable. Even unmodified SHS FMR Pistons can work fine for awhile in most SSG builds.
I would personally suggest SHS nylon pistons. I use them in DSGs and DMRs at 1.8 joules, never had one break. I have seen many aluminum pistons warp. Aluminum has no memory like plastics do. It is impossible for nylon to wear into a gearbox. Aluminum on monkey metal could. It would take an incredible amount of time for it to do a lot of damage, but why risk it unnecessarily. When an aluminum piston breaks, it can take out the cylinder and piston head with it. If you like using them, just use them in lower stress builds. I have seen many aluminum pistons that look like crushed coke cans in DMR and DSG builds. Also they weigh more, which is not good for the front of the gearbox. It is also the reason the piston can crush in on themselves and warp. This just comes from conservation of energy and conservation of momentum happening at the same time. Science stuff.
Interesting feed back. Fortunately I have never experienced any problems with the aluminium pistons being buckled by the workings of the gearbox. I usually radius a gearbox to reduce the stress on the front of it. I have used them with good success in normal AEG builds as well as DMR builds.
Metal pistons are heavier and heavier youbwant a heav vpiston woth a heavy spring which will cause otbto finish fast. Light piston light spring will also finish fast light sping with heav vpiston or visaversa will cause the piston to finish slow. Medium wiyh light or heavyv pring will cause the piston to finish moderately. Only time to exparament with that is in a dmr. One tonne dod a good writeup on this.
Standard airsofter moment, mooore metal=best thing ever. It’s been proven that aluminum pistons are hot garbage. Theres zero benefits over a metal rack plastic bodied piston and in 99% of cases there are more disadvantages to them. If a plastic bodied piston can withstand a 14.8v 9T Sp170 60 rps DSG that has killed a siegtek sector, there is zero reason why to use a aluminum piston.
I'm working on an extremely high speed build and I've blown the teeth sets off two seperate pistons. Just flew right out the back, hopefully an aluminium piston can handle the rate of fire.
@@MrHaidar13 correct half tooth for 32:1. 14 tooth will give you less issues with the pick up of the piston. However you can always modify a 15 to best fit.
It can be a bit of a mine field. There is no real way of knowing what will work in every gun until you try to fit it. It is not something that is always a problem though. Just from experience it is good to check as if there is a problem with tightness of the piston in the gearbox or meshing with the sector gear then it is best to find out while building the gun rather than trying to shoot the gun. 😎
