Very nice video my friend. I wonder if the current change direction (circuit with shunt), what will happen to the digital meter and if the digital meter will not burn what the indication will be. This circuit will happent when a battery charge and then discharge.
I had bought 10A version meter which has inbuilt shunt on the circuit board. how can I convert it for 50A version? Can I remove the inbuilt shunt and add a 50A shunt at the same place with a thick wire? Correct me if I am wrong, please. You had used two same modules (with different circuit schematic). I think your first meter had inbuilt shunt and the second one doesn't have the inbuilt shunt.
I have several of these that are 10 amp rated with the little shunt on the board. Can I use these with a 50 amp shunt? Do I have to remove the soldered-on shunt? Or do I need an entirely different meter for use with a 50a shunt?
Did you find out the answer? I think the gauge of the wiring would need to be thickened because sending more current through might melt the wires? But increasing the thickness of the wire might fry the 10awg meter because maybe it might not have the components needed to handle more current? I just compared mine to the one he is holding his says : DSN-VC288. Mine says: DSN-VC288 V2.0 His wiring appears to significantly thicker AWG and the circuit bord is very different. Neither his or mine has a built in shunt. I have no idea how mine is measuring the resistance but it is giving the same readings as my solar controller! 😂
Hello i connected voltmeter and amperometer at my user car port of 12 V as you showed with also the shunt. The first time it read volt and ampere. Then i turn off the motor. Then i turn on the motor And amperometer still not work. Voltmeter yes. Whats the Reason or the error??
I have 100A version is it normal for it when it's powered by only 9v battery if it shows above 2a as base. I don't know if measured current is a sume of power source current and 9v battery. But it doesn't work without 9v battery at all. Anyway 2a samsung charger shows 3.6a while i plug 6v motor. Idk if these readings are correct. Or my device is broken.
Thank you. I've been trying to find a schematic showing color codes with a shunt. I received two meters and neither had a schematic or connection diagram.
I have Got This (100V - 10A) Meter and i have found that 2 Adapters was written 9V and Coming 17V :D and another 13.3V and coming 6.5V. Now About Meter: You Can Use Meter Only With AC Adaptor Or Battery - To Turn on. Use Minimum 3V Maximum 12V and Maximum 1.5A. Use thin red (+) and thin black (-). thick Red - is changing Pulses thin Yellow - also changing Pulses thick Black - also changing Pulses 1) Volt measures thin Yellow and thick Black 2) Volt measures thin Yellow and thick Red 3) Amps measures thick Red and thick Black
Thanks for the video, but seems yours do the same like mine - when measuring current the voltage measure drop with at least 1-2 volts. My test was: motorbike 12V battery 15Ah , normally charged (12.5-12.55V). Bulb - 12V / 55W. With two multi-meters (one for current flow, the other for voltage meter) and connected bulb : 11.80-11.85V on the first one and 4.5-4.55A on the second. With that meter without bulb connected show the right voltage(and can be adjusted in case is not), but with bulb connected shows 10.8V. Can be that fixed somehow or just on my mind will add one volt with any measure? I try also with external ( 9V battery) as power supply only for the electronics (red and black) yellow on the load + , exactly the same result..
It's normal that voltage drops; it' sign that your power source can't give enough current to power that device. You can try with two batteries in parallel, or use lower wattage bulb.
I think you misunderstood me. Yes, it`s normal some voltage drop on the battery side. But measured exactly same time with digital multi meter and that chinese Voltage-Ampere meter there is about 1-2 volts difference(depend voltage and load). Example: Without bulb as load: multi meter 12.52V - Chinese volt-amp meter 12.5V With bulb as load: multi meter 11.8V - Chinese volt-amp meter 10.7-10.8V
@@Crypto.ninja24 of course, you need shunt for current over 10A, but there is different versions of same device. Some devices have internal shunt and can measure up to 10A. Device without shunt can measure up to 1A.
Shunt is used for measuring high current. This devices is created only for low currents, if we want to measure higher current in this case up to 50A, we need extra shunt. Some of this device have internal shunt and it can measure up to 10A.
Great Video... Can anyone tell me pls.. How much short circuit current flow on 24 V - 220 amp batteries. - I need to choose DC MCB rating for short circuit protection. Right now im using 1000W inverter but in future it can be more power.
Not sure why I can't grasp this! Dang it. Mine has a shunt but I don't get any amps displayed on my meter...ever. 1. In your diagrams, is the shunt the "Load"? Why does it show a + and a - ? I thought the shunt was just for connecting the - wires. No? 2. The thin red and yellow wires are both connected to the + side of the power source ie, a battery or solar panel? Can they be connected to any live wire nearby? They're awfully short and can't reach my batteries about 2' away. Or put another way, these two small wires aren't for sensing amps or volts. they're just for powering the meter, correct? Or is the small red wire for powering the meter and the yellow one is for V sensing? 3. It's confusing to see the big red wire connecting to the negative bus (if i'm understanding your diagram correctly). Thx for the video. Well done!
Hi, shunt is used to measure higher currents. Thin red and black wire is for powering the device, yellow wire is for voltage measuring. At 1:44 you have wiring diagram without shunt, at 4:41 you have wiring diagram with shunt. Just wire it like me, and it should work. If you switch thick read and black wire, this device will not work.
I've burnt out so many of these damn things connecting them up to these diagrams. Don't buy them. They are garbage. The load won't run, and the ammeter does nothing but display 102's. In it's defense, the voltemeter part works... but... yeah. Whoopteedo.
You misleading people when you say in video that you use same meter device!!!! You dont use same device you gonna cost people money they gonna loose money for nothing!! You can't connect shunt in 10Amp version device you must buy 50amp version device for 50amp shunt otherwise not gonna work!!!
I just say that both looks similar, it's misunderstanding. 10A version have internal shunt, solid thick wire, you can see that on 0:08 . Otherwise 50A or 100A versions doesn't have that integrated shunt so they use external one. It's actually the same device ony shunt is difference.
He's right. This is dangerous. People can't possibly understand this from this video or tell them apart when it's not even mentioned. You should maybe edit the video.
