I have similar version of this motor sold in poland (not sure if its newer or older). That thing made around 80.000km without even bearing replacement. It was my commuter to work and i was riding it every day in winter, 10cm snow, heavy rain, no exceptions. That thing is just unkillable :D
I have one of these motors couple with a 52v 20,5ah battery on a 700 gravel bike with four paniers+camping gear (100lbs in total) . I did two trips of about 1000kms each. 👍Powerful and reliable motors!
FH212 for the last year about 1200W max on the front of my Bullitt and it is all da*n day. I am really happy with the 'erformance of the motor. Especially when I have a heavy load on the front riding up Seattle hills (and down, nice to have a beefy motor to brake with).
do be careful as the magnets are very powerful and pinching of the hand can happen if the gear puller should slip off and the motor core should snap back in
I would mark the position of the case and the lid towards each other, as there may be wobble after offset assembly, especially if the motor is already laced in.
This was certianly the case with some motor models we've dealt with in the past like the Crystalyte hubs and even earlier 9C motors, but on the RH212/FH212 hubs we've found that there is no preferred orientation of the plate, the tolerances are good enough that it can go back in any alignment.
do you guys think a PMSM or even an IPM PMSM instead of the convention BLDC is possible? Or even an axial flux motor? I mean I know these are "technically" possible but will they become a reality sometime in the future?
Almost all hub motors are already PMSM (ie BLDC but with a sinusoidal back-emf) and IPM motors are fairly common in geared hubs using an inrunner constuction (eg Bafang G360). They make no sense in an outrunner. Axial flux motors and hub motors are totally possible and exist in specialty projects, but have demanding mechanical stiffness requirements compared to radial motors. The lynch motor is rare example of an axial flux design that was viable for manufacturing and got some traction in this space.
@@GrinTechnologies well what i meant is that the windings in these hub motors are concentrated and not distributed over each other (i.e. discrete poles). I don't see why ipm wouldn't make sense for an outrunner, but geared hubs right now aren't using a true IPM configuration. Its still a surface permanent magnet with some reluctance which isnt being utilized except with specialized controllers. I would think an axial flux motor should be easier to make compared to radial, why the difference? It should be possible to add a ring with some bearings around the outermost circumference and apply pressure on the rotor to keep it completely in contact with the stator. I am also considering building my own axial flux hub motor, as I already have the design complete in CAD. Along with an experimental axial-radial flux all in one motor.
if it has StatorAde in it, do you drain the StatorAde out first, or just leave it in there til you separate the sideplate? how about a video showing us what disassembly looks like with StatorAde?
Have you ever seen a rotor where one or more of the permanent magnets are not arranged correctly with alternate polarity? I have a suspicion that I got one like that. The motor seems working fine but whenever engaged it produces a clicking/grinding sound and the sound is lauder the more load is applied to the motor. All possible connectivity tests are perfect, no mark of any mechanical damage, no sound when just turning the wheel by hand. Already out of ideas.
I have an electric trike it is a ETF 36v 250 w 2109070003 😮😮😢❓❓❓🤯🤔❓ On the front front hub motor on the inside where the rod is or to the engine motor that holds the wiring my wiring is got pinched and I'm trying to figure out how to fix the wearing without having to take the disassemble the whole any ideas I'm literally in the middle of please ❓❓❓🙏🙏😵💫🙏🙏❓😊
Ive bonded aluminum intake spacers permanently with yamabond gasket maker, so my guess is that it is too strong. High temperature silicone is sufficient and probably even overkill.
I have a 48v 8000w brushless hub motor on the ChallengerX (2018 or 2019 model) and one of the hall sensors is known bad after i did a diagnostic test from brushless motortest kit. I removed it and on the sensors that have the type doesn't exist anywhere. I believe the one you posted is a 41F type. Can I use one different type sensor or do all 3 need to be the same. On the hub motor itself there's a number on it that says MY48V8000W180416011C24. Could you direct me to the correct hall sensor to use that I can get through Amazon?
Within the first 15 km of installing the RH212 motor it makes a loud grinding noise at the same point in each rotation. After multiple correspondence Grin has no idea what is wrong. The grinding noise continues with power or without power, with load or without load, at the start or after a long ride. When the wheel turns it grinds. What your thoughts community?
Hey Thumbs! Sorry you're having problems with your motor. If it sounds like a physical grinding sound inside the motor then maybe it's a defect from the manufacturer. We rarely have issues with these motors and our warranty department should be happy to take care of you if there is. We don't do tech support via RU-vid, just email.
@@GrinTechnologies Thanks for response. I took the motor apart and took into a professional machinist who sanded down the few magnets that were slightly raised above the rest. It appears to have fixed the problem!
We almost exclusively use the Sapim Strong 13-14 Gauge Spoke for our builds. ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/spokes.html The 12-13 Gauge would be the thicker.
HELP HELP HELP PLEASE ....I am getting a fault on my screen saying motor position sensor fault have you heard of or seen what this could mean my bike is a 52 volt paired with a 40 amp controller and a 2000 Watt peak power direct drive hub motor of the mtx variety
You should contact the vendor who sold you the ebike and is responsible for giving after sales support! It did sound like an error code for bad hall sensor signals, but every controller and display will have its own peculiarities
I'd like to know how to put a longer axle in these motors. Direct drive motors from Grin don't fit my 26" fat bike dropouts (135mm front, 190mm rear). If there's a way to lengthen the axle that would work too.
It's much easier to just source a motor already designed for fatbike use with an appropriate spacing. You not only have the axle length to worry about, but also the spacing and alignment of the cassette and the disk rotor. The G62 motor with the clutch locked makes a pretty great rear fatbike platform if you wanted DD for the sake of regen.
@@GrinTechnologies Maybe I'm using the simulator wrong, but the G62 tops out at about 20mph no matter how many volts and amps I throw at it. In a dual motor system with a Clyte or 9C motor in the front, the G62 becomes an anchor after 20mph. I'd rather focus on fitting a 9C or Clyte to my ebike. The spacing of components is pretty easy.
I appreciate Grin's efforts to educate all of us. I've learned so much and expanded my imagination over the last year through the content on the website. I would like to recommend that you use advertising to help raise funds. I wouldn't mind some ads. I understand that you guys have to survive. Imo, it seems like your inventory is dragging you down. The Clytes and 9C's are way better than a geared motor. But you probably know that. Bluetooth capable controllers are taking over as well.
Changing the winding KV (via wye/delta or different turns) does not change the torque capability of the motor, your understanding of the theory is flawed. See ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-c96n0Ma2rLY.html
Bonjour, j'ai acheté ce moteur rh212 par un site français. ( ozo) J ai un problème de jeu sur le porte cassette qui présente un jeu. Je vois bien dans vôtre vidéo comment accédé au démontage du porte cassette. Ma question , est ce un ensemble avec le support vissé sur le flan ou peut on démonté la partie vissé sur le flan de la roue . Car ozo me propose simplement la partie porte cassette sans explication pour la changé. Il n y a que sur votre vidéo que j ai vu le démontage pour changer les roulements. ozo m’ à proposé un porte cassette rh 205 qui doit être identique . Doit-on obligatoirement ouvrir le moteur pour le changé ? Désolé de vous écrire en français, je ne parle pas anglais, mais si vous le souhaitez , je vous ferais une traduction. Merci de votre attention, poursuivez vos vidéos , elles ont explicitent et l animateur connais bien son sujet. Si vous pouvez faire une vidéo pour changer le porte cassette, se serais top. Dommage que l on est pas là culture canadienne, on s en porterais mieux. Amicalement joao.felipe
En principe tu peut demonter le porte cassette sans ouvrir le moteur car les tetes to vise sont a l'exterieur, mais en practique c'est tres bien serrer meme apres elever les vises et demonter la couverture due motor est necessary pour appluier la force necessaire a libre le port cassette.
On a related note, my Park Tool FR-5.2 freewheel removal socket has too small of a diameter to fit over the RH212 M14 axle. I can't find a socket with a larger diameter online. Anyone have a recommendation?
Hi I really need help with a controller. The motor is 24v and it got only 3 wires which controller I should use I have controller but motor dose not have sensor connections Please help
We had a custom-ish one made up with 6" jaws and a 9" thread which works nicely for almost all the hub motors around our shop. ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/repair-tools/gearpull6-9.html
Hi i have a 3kw hub motor since 2 weeks its great! and i was doing a tour 2 days ago and suddenly the display shut down and i couldn't turn it on again i tested the battery with a 230v lamp and it worked so the battery is fine and i dont think the display is broken and the cables are connected perfectly. I personally think the controller got fried but i wanted to ask you
Привет,это не контролер а провода рекуперации которые идут колесу,я столкнулся с такой же проблемой думал что контроллер,но нет,прозвонил провода колесу один оборвался.
@@male42nfree rather then cut off then you could also make an adapter cable by using the end from the failed motor and a the other end this motor is supposed to connect to if you can get that end.
Silicone or no silicone if water gets inside the motor it's not going to drain or evaporate out through the very thin crack in the flat side plates, but it certainly WILL get sucked into the motor via that crack if the motor is wet when it cools down and forms a vacuum inside. Capillary action will ensure that water has filled the small gap and then suction forces will draw it in. A silicone seal prevents this. If you want a motor to "breath" in order to avoid water damage, then you need much larger vent holes on the hub. That also works fine, but it exposes the motor to foreign materials too.
@@GrinTechnologies hmm so maybe best solution would be making holes with glued fabric to prevent anything falling inside. Or even make holes with cover that can be oppened after rainy day or wet ride to dry out inside of the motor... Im thinging on solutions because i use older version of this motor for commuting everyday to work. I didnt open in so far but i made many rides in heavy rain and motor is like 8 years old. Probably not perfect inside :D
Correct this is totally a chinese motor, but it is quite a bit better than many other generic DD hubs. Ex Cassette freehub compatible, proper 135mm dropout spacing, full 20mm clearance for disk rotor,, plus the waterproof L10 connector plug and built in thermistor.
