Great video and so helpful! The clutch pedal return spring of my Opel Corsa D broke a few weeks ago. After 3 garages refused to do the job saying that they had to disassemble half car, I ended up in your video, bought an original spring on ebay and did the job myself. It wouldn't be possible without your incredibly detailed video, thanks!
Very Excellent and detailed technical video for replacing the cylinder. Well explained and useful as a reference as I have the same model. please never delete the videos or remove the channel as this will be very helpful to many DIYers
Hi! Thank you for the feedback! I don't plan on deleting any of the videos, since the main reason I make them is to help other DIY-ers that need to do the same job. 🙂
My wife has a '09 Corsa D pre-lift Z12XEP. We use this car to, as i like to say, "relocate our asses around the city". No emotions with this car. Like you, i do all the service by myself. I like to see new content you provide because youre very calm and explaining. I am impatient, car is very dull but your attitude makes me more willing to take my time to service it properly. Greetings from PL.
Hello and thank you very much for your comment, it really made my day 😁! I agree, the Corsa isn't particularly exciting and not always easy to work on (this CMC change actually took me a good number of days to sort out), but after 2+ years of ownership it's proved to be a very comfortable and nimble little car - very good in the city but also surprisingly good on longer trips.
Bravo, j'ai rarement regardé une vidéo aussi intéressante et complète et très bien expliquée pour ce travail, j'ai beaucoup appris ... Encore Bravo et MERCI 👍
Loved you video 🎉🎉🎉 i have a question i have corsa excite 1.2 2014 43000 miles on it i have some problem with clutch sometimes it doesn't make enough pressure and changes its biting position and after pressing 2-3 times it again makes pressure and works fine also when i change gear from 1-2-3 RPM goes up slightly more but gear works fine never made any sound i have checked oil its not leaking at all also try bleeding oil to check if its air in system but no air please can you tell me solution (i was wondering if its a clutch sensor) but im not sure please reply thanks
The clutch sensor doesn't affect the force needed to disengage the clutch, it simply tells the car's ECU if the clutch is engaged or not. From what you're describing it's sounds like the clutch itself is wearing out. Since there's no leak or griding, I don't think the clutch cylinders are the problem. But it's best to take your car to a trusted mechanic and get another opinion.
The clutch circuit is completely separate from the engine. Maybe check to see if there are any leaks on the clutch pipe and hose...or maybe one of the clutch cylinders has just failed and the timing is simply a coincidence. If the car cannot move, best get a mobile mechanic to come and diagnose the issue.
Thanks! The one from 1:02:08 is www.amazon.de/-/en/114-Reversible-Ratchet-Ergonomic-Non-Slip/dp/B00871XOLQ. The one from 33:56 is part of a set, www.amazon.co.uk/BGS-Do-yourself-91541-10-Piece/dp/B092JNRY26.
Any recommendations on what/how to check, as I'm losing a lot of water it is needing to be filled up daily, i have used steel seal to repair the gasket, and have replaced a pipe which looked to be leaking. There are know no visible leaks. I have now topped up with water and gone on some test drives and it is still running out in the tank. needing to be filled up. Any ideas?
hi thanks for the video mate but i have a question i have changed the clutch ( complete kit ) and slave cylinder on a 2006 opel combo 1.3 and every time i bleed my clutch or go for the first drive the brand new slave cylinder inside seal explode and it leaks directly i don't know where i need to search... The line seems ok but idk about the regulator and clutch master cylinder if you can help me with this one i will be very thankfull ;) cheers
If you've gone through several slave cylinders then most likely the problem is with the master cylinder or the regulator, as you suspect. I'm inclined towards the latter, because if it's broken and allowing too much pressure, it may lead to the slave cylinder breaking down. I'd replace both components, just to be sure.
Hi! So far I haven't had the P0171 code on our Corsa. It did start to idle a bit rough though about 2 weeks ago, but that ended up being the coil pack, which I have since replaced. I'll post the replacement video soon.
@@TheMissingBolt Replaced my coil pack and 4 original sparks . 4 month later this code showed after very bad idle and wisle around the valve cover (valve cover gasket replaced 2 years ago so no leaks)
The gear linkage on our Opel currently works fine. If it fails in the future and needs replacing, I'll definitely make a video on the subject. But in the mean time, you can check out ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zqTW-z7WQMA.html where you can see part of the procedure - namely the disconnecting, connecting and adjustment of the gear linkage to the gearbox.
You connect a bleeding setup to the clutch line's bleeder, close to where the line connects to the box. If you're pressing on the clutch pedal and there's no brake fluid coming out of the bleeder valve, most likely the master cylinder is busted; if, on the other hand, fluid is coming out in a steady stream, then the culprit is probably the slave cylinder.
Hi, how would you test the master cylinder if you suspect its faulty? Thanks. Btw I can push the clutch pedal all the way back with two fingers and not 1 like you did. Is that enough to call it faulty?
You start by verifying that no matter how hard you press the clutch pedal while the engine is running, you can't engage any gears or the gears grind a lot when you attempt to engage them. This tells you there's a problem somewhere in the clutch system. You then check the brake / clutch fluid level and underneath the car verify there are no brake fluid leaks from the clutch pipe. You're then left with either the clutch master cylinder (like in the video) or the clutch slave cylinder (like in ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zqTW-z7WQMA.html). To figure out which is the culprit, you attempt to bleed the clutch line via the clutch bleeder valve. If fluid always comes out of the valve when you press the clutch, then the master cylinder is most likely working fine since it's able to push fluid through. If it doesn't (just as in the current video), then the master cylinder is the likely culprit.
@@user-lt3cq4hr1l That is an Aisin AF13-II 4-speed gearbox. The needed oil type is T-IV (check OE Toyota or Ravenol) and the filter does not require replacement when changing the oil. The capacity of the box is about 7.5L, but you get about 3.3L - 3.5L per single drain (because most of the oil is inside the torque converter). If you buy 10L of oil and do 3 drains and fills (making sure to drive for a while after each one, to properly mix the old and new fluids), you'll replace about 85 % of the old oil. More details here: workshop-manuals.com/vauxhall/corsa-d/k__clutch_and_transmission/automatic_transmission_front_wheel_drive/automatic_transmission_af_13/17/14/20/22/30/specifications/transmission_fluid_(af_13-ii)/
It depends on the country and type of garage / dealership. The only value I have is from a Romanian Opel dealership who wanted about 100 Euros in labor for this job (a surprisingly low amount given the actual amount of required labor).
Siempre doy explicaciones detalladas en todos mis videos y hasta ahora solo he recibido comentarios positivos sobre ellos. Siempre puedes silenciar el audio si no quieres escucharlo.
La vidéo est destinée à être un guide de DIY et non une vidéo de divertissement. C'est pourquoi je donne beaucoup de détails. Il existe de nombreuses courtes vidéos qui vous montrent comment faire quelque chose en quelques étapes, mais si vous n'êtes pas expérimenté, elles ne sont pas très utiles.
