least its better than my father... he bought a chainsaw attachment for his angle grinder, which he still has yet to put the guard or handle on, and was cutting wood without gloves; one kickback later, and he lost feeling in 3 fingers. tore several nerves, and he only just got feeling back in two of his fingers, with the 3rd still being rather numb... still doesn't have the guard or handle on his angle grinder, but at least has more appropriate eye protection aside from range glasses.
Exactly the same way i made the adapter for my GT40 replica 20 plus years ago .. Had some hard track work and street miles and never missed a beat.. Great video. nice clear explanations of each step.. Well done..
My teacher in HS had tons of AC cobra replicas. I was the only one he trusted for paint prep and interior instal. He made an adapter to use one of the ginormous Ford v8s from a big rig. I didn't do any of that stuff but I have seen it round town and good god a 500ci+ big block in that little frame makes one hell of a rocket ship
Haha !!! thanks! that's the first time i have been called the G.O.A.T. Luckily it worked. Gotta do what you gotta do when you don't have the high tech tools. Thanks for watching.
This is excellent, good to see that you showed the homemade jig to cut a circle. Couple things for anyone who's never done this: The major things to line up on a manual transmission is the flywheel pilot bearing the input shaft and the dowels everything else can be fudged pretty safely (unless you're operating at big power and all that) as the bolts just clamp everything together. This is a transaxle so it's important everything is nice and straight, on a transmission you can be a couple degrees out it won't be the end of the world. I've seen transmissions cocked over 20 degrees for fitment, especially manual, just makes fluid fill/drain a concern. Autos are pickier. If you're having trouble with patterning, you can try the shading method which is use a pencil, or you can try tracing paper from any art store, put a light behind the engine/transmission so the part to trace is a dark area. A great thing you can do for cheap nowadays is 3d print parts of the shape and test fit to get dimensions right, takes a couple days sometimes but it's really useful. When cutting a circle with an angle grinder your grinder shouldn't be in too deep it should just barely cut the deeper you go the more your blade will want to cut straight (cos it is straight) be patient with this, also i know you didn't do this, but i think it's better to screw the plate being cut on a piece of wood and clamping that on a bench cut until you see the wood. What i prefer is to use a transfer punch to center out the dowels on your plate then measure from that for the remaining holes and cuts and use a centering punch for all that. Again the important locations are dowels and input shaft. Almost all the engines counter torque goes through the dowels and having a misaligned input shaft will destroy the transmission and other stuff. What i like to do is to measure the input pilot bearing area (or get the spec online) drill and ream a hole so it's precise and slide the plate over that with the transmission facing up (or down) then transfer punch the dowels. this makes sure your 3 holes of most important dimensions are dead on. Everything else you can use a template. it sometimes helps to use studs instead of bolts to help with alignment and all that especially if you don't have all the space in the world to drop engine and transmission if you gotta do a clutch or something. The flywheel is probably the biggest problem you'll have to consider because there's no way to do it without a trip to the machine shop, unless you find a swap flywheel or all your spaces match up perfectly. A clutch and pressure plate don't care what the flywheel looks like assuming you have correctly places holes and dowels and correct clutch surface. But the clutch splines are critical and so you may need an adapter surface. You may have to get creative, i used vw clutch drilled out to pressfit and weld a T5 mustang clutch collar to adapt a t5 to my aircooled vw engine. I had to use a lathe to dial in the center of of the clutch and collar.
That's just kool stuff,I wish I could have put a different engine in my 03 cady,is that possible,if so that would be awesome,Cady has a good engine when it's good but when it's bad oh boy is it BAD
@@davidtettleton2732 It's all about knowing the total distance of the input shaft into the actual pilot bearing. And then it's all just addition and subtraction so what you would do is you would take the adapter plate total thickness and then machine that much off the bellhousing or what you would do is add that additional amount into your flywheels set up to space it far enough away that you maintain the proper input shaft into pilot bearing along with the spines into the clutch disk as well for full engagement.
So cool to see someone doing stuff the old school way. I built an adapter years ago to mate my Dodge V8 to a GM Power Glide for drag racing. Great job. 🇺🇸🦅🏁
I’m swapping a 2.0L VW TDI into my Ford Ranger right now. I’m not going to pay $1200 for an aluminum milled adapter plate and was looking for an alternative. This is exactly what I was thinking of doing! ThanX for all of the tips to make it easier!
@@Mazda626gtturbo Well, my Ranger had a 2.3L gas engine that started knocking bad shortly after I bought it. The pickup is in excellent condition so I thought of rebuilding the engine. But, I love diesel powered engines because of the amazing fuel mileage, longevity, and power! So, I swapped a diesel engine into my Ford Ranger and now I have more power and I get 43+ MPG!! So amazing!!!
How do you center the g box onto the crank shaft, I’m sure it will need to be precise.. I’m I appreciate the methods used to construct the bell housing, real nice..
If you will use plexiglass for your template, you can align things better. Sometimes you only need 1 plate and it helps for centering on crank and input shaft
Simply Smart! Good sense and some out of the box thinking! Torque is a deceitfully viscous monster. I would web it on the inside and outside, and fully seam weld it. To minimize warping, bolt it to a part ( gearbox and then the engine, alternatively) Run short 3/4 inch welds at opposite sides then leave it to cool for 20 min. Slow, I know [ bit by bit, while you're busy with other stuff.] Only unbolt it when room temperature. It is going to stress fracture where it it welded after a few heat cycles if you don't. I've seen it. Over do it. Thank you for your time and sharing your experience.
Talk about old school. My dad showed me how to this in 1974, replacing the flathead engine in a 1948 4 pickup with a 394 Oldsmobile from an early '60's Delta 88, I think. Though thinking back, would have been better and easier to swap the trans too because the 48 Ford was low geared and before scyncros so even with the better engine, top speed was 50-60 mph full out and it would grind the gears if you weren't conscious to double clutch. But reality, great idea you have. I haven't thought about it since back them, but done 100's of other swaps. Like to see it done with sidewinder, Did a 389 Pontiac backwards into an old school VW beetle, hard to keep the front wheels on the ground, also a caddy Northstar into Pontiac Fierro was fun. Now planning a LS + 4l80 into a 1969 Pontiac Bonneville where once rested a 375 horse 428 with turbo 400 automatic. Keep up good work
Thank you so much! That means a lot coming from someone who has done quite a few swaps. I especially like the fiero / northstar swap. That is something I thought of doing myself.
Nice work without all the big fancy tools. When I put a v8 into an s10 many years ago, I made a single plate that connected the motor and trans. Truck originally had the 2.8 60° motor. I went about the same way making my template.
I have watched and rewatched this video, shared it many times.. its one of the best DIY projects that anyone with basic skills can do. I even used it myself to put a 5.9 cummins in a truck
Thank you for sharing this. I’m getting ready to do a K or 4g63 in my 944t. I have a few 4g rwd cars already using existing adapters. This technique looks completely possible and easy enough to do.
Sounds like a bishi guy. I have a 78 colt galante(mitsubishi colt lancer/Chrysler conquest/dodge colt) with the 4g32b. Ffuucckkkkkk that engine. Lost compression fast. I want to do a 4g54T or 4g63. Sadly they're mad expensive so I'll probably use a stock 1uz
It is obvious you did a Great Job on this adapter plate. The layout and actual build are very informative and practical. I wish you had taken more time to explain how you insured accurate alignment of the crankshaft and input shaft before you started welding the web to the two plates. Precision alignment is the difference between it being a usable adapter or a piece of scrap metal that looks like an adapter. Obviously you know what you are doing, I just wish you had explained to us how to do it too! Thanks for a good video!
Thanks! I cut most of that out due it to being boring and repetitive. I measured between welds as well. Probably as accurate as you can get for hand made. At the end of the mock up process, It will get sent back to the machine shop to get milled on both sides
@@spambedamhe basically did NOT properly center it. That part where he engaged the starter and grabbed the output before welding it together. That was it.
Why thank you so much. There are quite a few ways to make this work and this is just what I could figure out for myself. good luck on your next project
Nice job on the adapter plates. Back in the 60s, I adapted a Chevy 283 to my Willys wagon top loader transmission and transfer case. The only real problem I ran into was I needed a longer transmission pilot shaft which luckily was available through a local truck supply shop.
Thanks! Proof that this fool can make one with basic tools. I have also bought my adapter plates in the past but had to go this rout when no one offered one for this setup
Couple things. First I noticed when you cranked it with starter the first time I noticed that the flywheel was wobbling. 2nd thing is you have now way if knowing center line of crank & input of Trans. The 2 should be within approx. .003in. Then the adapter plate should probably have been parallel machined on both sides . If not you might have issues with pilot & input bearings. Dowel pins are there for a reason.
Yes and Yes.. The wobble you saw was from the center plate not being full seated. (it was just in for mock up). The dowel pins were retained and the plate will be milled on both sides after the car mock up is complete.
@@YouZombieBro Thanks! I am betting on hopes and prayers... and It will go back to the machine shop after the car is done being mocked up or mill work on both sides
Hello! How did you ensured the centering of the crankshaft centerline ant the transmission´s pilot shaft and also the perfect alignment of the surfaces or planes between the engine and the transmission? Thanks 🙂
You have to consider the plane on the motor and transmission are flat. because these are already flat surfaces, you can keep both surfaces on the same plane by making sure the added space between is exactly the same all the way around. I believe the spacer I used was 21mm and was measured for accuracy. The piece was then measured after being welded all the way around and had the same thickness all the way around. Of course you could put the plate on a milling machine for accuracy. The pilot shaft and bearing were aligned by installing the shaft into the bushing and then measuring the distance between the face of the block and the face of the transmission. Adjustments were made to get the same reading all the way around once again. fitment was verified upon assembly where the pilot shaft matches up perfectly and all the mating surfaces line up without having to tightened down to seal up the mating surfaces "if that makes any sense"
@@scantronsgarage Yes, it makes sense. It seems as a sound and solid method. In fact I understand that by doing it that way, you ended up checking it twice, for reassurance. Very good and thanks🙂! I will try to replicate your method.
@@scantronsgarage Great video, thanks. I like your idea, very versatile. It would be nice if you could produce a video to show exactly how you centered the pilot shaft into the pilot bearing to make sure that it was concentric to the bearing. I assume you came up with some dowels for repeatedly locating all the components to each other precisely for disassembly and reassembly and not have to measure each time. If so that would be great to show how in a future video also. I've done a few custom adapters for my customers in the past as part of a custom engine swap. I'm starting in on a custom adapter for myself this time and I'm going to incorporate your way of doing it. Thanks! Subscribed. Ross
@@rossconverse9067 Thank you! I spent probably an entire afternoon measuring the fit before welding. I didnt film much of this due to most peoples lack of interest. I will make a more detailed vid on the next one I make
@@scantronsgarage Nonsense. The inaccuracy in the weld beads alone is enough. Look up dial indicating bell housings. (Aligning bell housings). There is a REASON original installations have DOWELS to accurately center them. They must be centered on concentric, and must be in the same plane 3 dimentionally
I absolutely love this video, but please for the love of cars put a guard on the angle grinder when doing something like that and in general really. I have had multiple friends need hospital trips or have permanent injuries from discs exploding. I have heard of someone dying from taking one to the gut. I hate to be that guy, but I hate even more to lose a guy.
Thank you! And I hear you on that. I keep putting it on and taking it back off for certain jobs and then being too excited to work on something to put it back on. I suppose I should just buy another one that always has the guard on. I definitely don't want an injury slowing me down.
@@scantronsgarage I have a recent model DeWalt XR cordless grinder and it has the super easy to rotate guard where you just push a button and it clicks into positions. Def helps me keep it on rather than taking it off out of frustration. I just got particularly worried watching the angles you had the grinder at relative to your body, hahaha. Literally had a friend in Australia send me a picture of his safety glasses with a chunk of exploded wheel embedded in them. Woulda lost an eye if not for the glasses. Be safe and keep making rad videos!
You nailed it Ace! Great craftsmanship! I have been pondering the proper approach needed on a project that I’m working on dealing with this very issue. Thanks.✝️🌞
Just found your channel, watched a few of your videos so far and this one brought back memories of my military days when we had to get it done with what we had on hand; when you said and I quote "I lack the proper tools to do that; however, I'm cool with coming up with sketchy stuff, so here is my setup".....I busted out laughing (because I can relate) and had to comment, thanks for sharing and great content!
Thank you for watching. And yes this is my life in the garage. I don't always have the proper tools but I must always come up with a way to progress with my projects. And thank you for your service!
I was really thinking about such an idea, but I thought it would be difficult to succeed because if it had been successful, we would have found it in the market being sold with car repair parts, but inside me I was convinced that it would succeed, and today you proved to us the success of this idea. I am really happy with your work. . I subscribed to your channel because you are amazing
I really enjoyed watching this and found myself wishing the video was longer :) very creative use of that angle grinder BTW. Thank you for sharing this !!!
awesome to SEE what I've been dreaming about for a year. My plan is pretty much the same, but use a little thicker plates. --after it's welded up, I'd take it in to be surface ground for parallelism, and final thickness.
I’ve never done this myself, because i considered it beyond my shop’s capability, with the tools, skills and time constraints we had to work with. We had a couple made, over the years, most notably to fit Nissan diesel engines to other makes of car. From memory, none of them were more than 10mm thick, none required extensions to the flywheel depth and most of ours were not concerned with high performance, so high rotating mass wouldn’t have been a big concern for us. Space was often quite tight, so moving the engine forward by 40mm might not have been feasible. All of that being said, it’s great to see a different way of achieving this. The days of diesel conversions are over, of course, thanks to the u-turn the ecomentalists took about the climate crisis, but re-powering is likely to become a niche industry when internal combustion is no longer the norm and original replacement motors are hard to find. It’s also relevant to the performance and custom industry, though I suspect this method won’t work for them. Reducing rotational mass is very important in a performance mod, so adding big flywheel extension pieces would be frowned on.
I am putting a Freelander V6 auto transmission in a 4 cylinder Freelander (they are the only ones emissions compliant for London, UK). This video is *exactly* what I needed. My project is a little more complicated because it's a transverse engine and I will have to cut down the bellhousing to make room for the adapter. Using an angle grinder on pivoting bar is brilliant. Thanks!
Thank you! and good luck with your project. Making room is always a challenge but it sounds like you have already thought that part through. Happy I could help and it is cool to hear my video reached you in the UK.
How did you know that the input shaft on the gearbox was perfectly in line with the crankshaft before you welded it? My torque converter has a fair bit of play on the gearbox input so some how I need to lock it in exact centre or something. I don't know how to do that
The reason I watched was to see what engine transmission and car. Wasn't disappointed. That is an awesome idea to v8 an MR2 and it looks like the engine will stay on your backside.
You put real effort in this, not just the mechanic work but the video too, I caught all those little after effects and editing. You easily earned my sub! I'm sorry I'm late to the party just found the channel but I'm going to be binging some videos for sure 👍
What are great video, clever idea with the angle grinder, You have done a great straight to the point job 😊. I'm in the throws of putting a BMW M57 in my Land Rover discovery 2, the adapter plates are expensive, I'm quite capable with how you have done this, You have made me think outside of the box 😊, no pun intended, Thanks,, Steve from 🇬🇧
CONGRATULATIONS, outstanding and impressive work of art, man do you know your stuff, that was great, I am proud of you, at my 71 years of age and been my entire life in the mechanical field, your project is music to my ears, most kind of you for sharing it with us, blessings to you and your love ones, from the endless summer paradise Puerto Rico Jesus Torres.
@@scantronsgarage gentleman I have to give you a lot of credits, well deserve it, I wish to have the opportunity to be at your location, there is always something to learn, each one of us know something and there is always someone new to learn, that bell housing adapter was far much better, lighter than the one we make, we make it with thicker gauge and it comes heavier, yours is lighter, far more convenient, blessings to you and your love ones, please keep up the good work, from the endless summer paradise Puerto Rico Jesus Torres.
dear god. getting the same vibes with those LS kits to adapt your cars engine bay to handle it. Heard they have them for a tiny honda civic, and that I might be able to put an LS3-LS9 in it (assuming the frame can handle the weight and I replace many of the other parts). Loved it.
I love "resourceful" builds that achieve more with less. Nothing is more impressive than substituting high tech equipment and financial limitations with critical thinking and creative techniques.
These are my guys. I would say that almost all of us oldies are dead who did these things normally day after day. I'm afraid those with a brain are all gone without needing a computer and a vernier caliper at most. The new way will never b replaced for accuracy or volume BUT - BIG WHOOP on the computer machines.
Maybe I would have ended up warping it, but I'm inclined to take a strip of steel and bend it into a hoop over a plywood form then tack it at one spot. And then go around tacking it around the perimeter bringing it into round. Then do the outside after.
@@scantronsgarage @scantronsgarage I really like the way you do it with two pieces, allowing you to fit each half separately then marry them together. It takes advantage of the fact that steel has more strength for its thickness than aluminum. I do have a slight concern about the shaft alignment, even though you checked to see that they spin freely. A radial load on the bearings could lead to excessive wear. It's clear that you've done it before and it seems experience is key there. Not having done that before I'd be concerned that I don't know what it feels like spinning the shaft if it's right or wrong. I could probably spin the shaft, think it was ok, and run it but really have it way off. It looks like there's enough room in there with the clutch and flywheel off for a dial indicator to be mounted on crank shaft and indicate off the transmission input shaft. You'd be peeking though the inch gap but It should work. I used to have a really tiny one that was great for that kind of stuff. This reminds me, I need to go find another. I have a 351C in a 72 IH 3/4 and I've been considering fixing up it instead of parting it out. But it has an FMX, so I'd need a new tranny. Now I'm seriously considering the possibility of using one of the 6 speed manual truck transmissions that mates to a modular V8 instead of the 5 speeds that I thought I was limited to.
@@michaelallen1432 I do have the same concerns on centering the input shaft perfectly. However, it lines up and goes together better than or as well as a stock transmission . so that gives me hope.
Thank you very much Sir for showing me/us how to go about this, I figured this could be done.... I'm planning on swapping an aluminum 5.3 into my Grand Wagoneer soon and I'm really wanting to just adapt it to the AMC pattern 727 that's already in the Jeep, just so I don't have to put lower ratio ring & pinion gears in both my differentials, which is what I'd have to do if I were to go with an "overdrive" 4L60e. And handmade parts are what it's all about, when on a budget....
For safety rotate your workpiece against the left side of the drillpress column while clockwise drilling. Please consider in a waste location bolt the plates together add a center hole and any dowel holes through both using slip fit for future alignment references. Thansfer your thempate profiles, mounting clearance and threaded holes. Have your machine shop provide mounting boss spacers to provide parallel alignment, then weld, weld and weld (completing with the dustcovers).
