we set out to try a les conventional way to turbo the 370z in hopes to reduce heat and fitment problems, and hopefully do it on a super low budget and see how we like it compared to the regular ways.
I have a single rear turbo setup on a LS and really like it. The spool time isn't as crisp as a properly sized turbo sitting close to the engine, but the lag is NOTHING like what most people are thinking in the comments. This setup will spool better than someone that slapped a poorly sized turbo into the engine bay. A couple of points that may be useful. 1. Wrap or coat all of the exhaust to keep the heat in. Turbo blankets help too. 2. Run a 1-2 PSI pressure one-way check valve on the oil feed line and on the oil drain line to the pump. This will keep the oil from draining into the turbos when they don't want/need oil. 3. Re-think your wastegate angle. It should be Y off the exhaust and right now it is a T. They likely aren't going to do their job positioned like that. This comment is obviously probably too late, but I thought I would share a couple of things if you are still working on it.
Yeah I saw the t thing aswell and thought not ideal but having 2 and being a decent size while not being ideally positioned will probably still suffice. I'd say in high gears on long hauls it will still suffer a little bit of over boost but round town should be ok.
lol I agree with everything you have said, HOWEVER you should see the awsome numbers this car made in later vids. 339whp on 4lbs, spool at 6000rpm. There are NA bolt-on 370Z making that number with more torque. I am looking over this build to see what exactly the goal is but this is getting hilariously bad, especially for all the equipment at their disposal.
He's had it on the dyno multiple times ..I'm pretty sure if there was going to be boost cream he would have seen it on the dyno,I belive it effects more so with the turbo closer to the heads .been it's a rear mount the dual exhaust helps elevate the boost creap. I run a rear mount too and I have never had leak back from oil flowing back and I don't run check valves..values.. scavenge pump being gears pretty much acts like a check valve,also the turbo looks lower then it is..his is higher then mine and mine is pretty much level with the pan..and his work is so sexy..it looks bad ass..I wish I could weld like that lol..
Good stuff. I have a rear mount 4.2 Audi. One additional comment to the ones mentioned below me, taper your exhaust piping as it runs down the car. Helps keep velocity and energy up.
I have a G35 Coupe (a 350Z in a tuxedo lol) and believe me when I say that I will be watching this custom twin turbo kit like a HAWK!!!!!! Especially if this is budget friendly! Your kit is already looking like it will be a heck of a lot easier to install than the casual engine bay set ups. PLEASE keep it up as I am interested in being a potential buyer on this.
I'm making a twin turbo setup for my 350Z right now (got loads of videos of the progress so far if you're interested) and I can confirm it is indeed a nightmare to fit turbos anywhere in the front lol I've ended up cutting out plenty of stuff and even after that its still going to be super tight
Looks cool man. I’d switch the turbos; make the intake on the insides to help keep road debris out of the turbo intakes. Plus you have less bends on the mufflers with the exhaust being on the outsides.
Just subscribed and I like your content. Nice welding and I love the budget conscious approach to your builds. I actually feel like I can build a turbo kit for my mustang without spending north of 8k!
everyone saying LAG LAG LAG... but if you actually do some research it turns out it really won't be that bad at all. One of my friends who's got a degree in automotive engineering and worked with the Mercedes F1 team did some calculations for my car specifically (twin GT2554R on a 350Z) and it turned out that an extra metre of intake tubing would only add something like an extra 0.2 seconds of spool up time. He also found the air would be travelling through those pipes at over 130 mph when at full boost. There's even an MR2 that had engine in the middle, intercooler up front, and turbo in rear (i.e. the worst combination for intake air travel distance) and it still won a load of Japanese GT races a few years ago going against other more "normal" cars
It's not just velocity of air but also temp. The exhaust cools as it travels away from the engine. As it cools it shrinks and loses ability to spool the turbo.
People talk a lot of flac on rear mounted turbos because they claim it will have insane lag, and I would agree with you if you used crappy pipe bends and oversized piping. Rear mounted turbos are a work of art and when done right they are actually way more efficient than traditionally mounted turbos. I have 5 cars with rear mounted turbos and the lag is within tolerance, only reason i went rear mounted is so I could keep the ac system and use bigger turbos. Use smaller tubing and wrap the pipe from front to back to keep the temp from dropping and route your intake pipe to the front where you can protect the intake filter from water to prevent hydro locking and if you can weld a turbo shield to prevent water from splashing on the turbo. Again its a work of art and mad props to this man for making a beautiful twin setup.
Just started this same style setup on my 88 Corvette! I've done a lot of research and I'm confident that it's going to work great. There was a company building systems for Vettes but they sold out, bought back, retooled, ect. Priced ridiculously now. Do it myself!!! 😁
This setup offers an interesting side effect. With the distance the boosted air has to go to reach the intake, you could bypass the intercooler. The air should cool in the pipe. I might go with a smaller diameter exhaust to push more gases faster to the turbos to reduce turbo lag.
A smaller pipe would reduce the flow rate. It's not helping pressure. More flow is more pressure. Less flow is less pressure, in a given space. Kind of like trying to blow through a small straw when compared to a larger one. The balloon will fill up faster when using a larger straw. A propeller will spin faster when you blow your air through a larger straw. Best way I can explain it.
Strongly suggest flex joints connections to the turbo's and if the turbo takes 10 years to spool then maybe you need a narrower exhaust of try mounting the turbos closer to the engine. Maybe check out The Skid Factory, Your might get some great ideas from the TURBO YODA. Al said and done big up to you for the attempt especially from an engineering stand point. You might also need to look into adding pumps for the oil and water feeds as gravity is not going to be your friend with that setup. As you launch the oil will be thrown backwards so returning the oil to the engine is going to be a challenge for you. Good luck again and I can't wait to see the next episode.
Add a tow bar and a trailer and you can have as many and as big turbos as you like, Exhaust flexis will take into account cornering problems at the pivoting point and zip ties will take care of all the pipework..
Truly amazing work, keep it up man. Not sure if you mentioned it but what exhaust is that? I never thought of cutting the flanges off an aftermarket exhaust to bolt up to the turbos, ingenious. Can't wait for the next video!
The end parts that we cut where just some basic mufflers I think 1320 brand, the mid section with the y in it I built him a while back. We couldn’t find just that y section for sale that’s why we built it. But now that it’s turbo the way it is I really think the stock smaller piping would be better, it might spoil faster ......but we will see......we are still testing this all out ....
Wow fast progress on the turbo kit. Super interested in seeing how the oil return is done in a rear mount setup. Didn't expect sooo much room for the turbos, good thing the stock exhaust is so huge! Edit: thanks for the Christmas upload btw the perfect gift 🎁🎁🎁
Sweet. Would be cool to have its own oil and coolant tank with electric pumps setup with coolers to recirc and cool those puppies. With a quick release oil dump for quick and mostly messless changes. Thats what i would do. Keep turbo and engine oil seperate. Turbo maintenance outback... I would def have a open circuit light that shows electric Pump failure just in case. Simple.
For those watching this. Zero reason for a twin turbo kit with tiny little turbines, run a single turbo kit in the rear and have any reputable exhaust shop convert your exhaust (if dual) from the xpipe back to a single. It will not only simplify the remaining install however build boost on a better and larger turbo significantly faster. The remaining tuning and install will be the most complicated part. Stay away from a dual rear setup it’s absolutely pointless
Twin set up with 2 different sized turbos is superior to a single turbo. Their initial attempts were fails but the key is 2 different sizes to get the bottom and the top end.
Excited to see how this turns out. I was thinking of doing this with a single on my g35 6mt... think you'll want to heat wrap the whole exhaust to help spool.
There is a reason why they place turbos as close to the exhaust ports as possible. You should just supercharge it if you are gonna waste all that thermal energy and throttle response
Really looking forward to these videos to come. I am starting the same project next month. This is something I have been finding for about 2 years now. Can't wait to see how you Plumb the air change line piping back to the front. Single or duel??
@Gearheads Autofab when you run the oil scavenging pump it has to be at a lower point than the turbos to let oil drain into it. The pump will last longer this way. Theres also some kind of valve ( cant remember what it's called atm) which sits in the return line and stops any oil from the pan to come back towards the turbos, you might Also want to look into installing one. Please keep us informed on how much lag you are seeing compared with other traditional front mounted setups and what the total wallet damage was in parts.
I have thought of so many possible things that I may need to address those are some of them. However .....I my goal is to keep this as simple as possible and only add parts as needed. So we are resisting the temptation to over build.
@@Executiveinvestments- tell me more about how you know my setup and have experienced first hand its capabilities or even remotely know anything about a turbo setup in general 😂😂 lag is a product of inexperience if you know what your doin you can have boost at any rpm you want
@@Executiveinvestments- btw z1 Motorsports posted my first dyno session on Facebook you could always check it out if you wanna be proven your a dumbass instead of just lookin like one
Everybody seems to think this...but think about it. When you have cold air intakes where are the air filters..in front of the radiator directly behind the grill..so when it Rains you are getting just as much road sneeze and rain water on the filters.
I like rear mount because it installs without removing the engine. No exhaust manifolds to deal with in cramped spaces. Easy to maintenance and when working in the engine bay, this style turbo system is almost none existent.
Ur gonna have an issue with the wastegates, the exhaust will wanna flow right past it, gonna need a pretty soft spring to make say 15 psi. Mayby like a 5 psi spring.
@@traxxasLOVR really? That's a blowoff valve your thinking of. Wastegate controls boost and is on the exhaust manifold or on the turbo itself if its internal wastegate
Bro. The turbos need to Hang from the chasis because the flex from the engine mounts will break all your welding work Besides the shaking will rattle that Z to Kingdom come..
This is true. Thats why Nissan builds in 2 big flex pipes in the mid section to prevent the exhaust from breaking. And in a older video we installed solid motor mounts so the engine will not move like a stock setup. But ya your right you totally need lots of flex on exhaust setups. I fix broken systems every week on cars with inadequate flex.
I have just about 50000 miles on my rear mount.my turbo us solid mounted via a steel plate and never has it come loose or crack..as long as you use flex joints there is 0 problems with cracking or breaking..my biggest advice I allways give people before starting a new project is simply this..build it completely on paper and realy thing about worst case scenarios to challenge it..once you think about the problems and the fixes it's time to start building..think think think is the best advice ..
Soooo... How are you going to run the Oil return line from the turbo to the oil pan? It will be a super long line and the turbos are mounted low in the back to allow gravity do its work.
Nice! Very interested in the outcome. How did you calculate your turbo sizes and how efficient do you think it will be. What is your expectation with lag?
We sorta used our budget to decide Turbo size lol these turbos are only 89$ each and we knew going in to this that we may change our minds on how we like the feel of the cars spool time and hp, the cool thing is that these turbos can be switched out for endless other sizes in the future if needed to accommodate what ever we need them to do. I did do some basic comparisons before we got them so I think we will be in a good spot 🤞
Im in the process of building my own rear mount single turbo kit for my 350z. Mounting the turbo was one of my concerns but this gave me an idea how i can do it. Ill be following this build for sure!
Nice project and you make it look easy for any one to do this👍 Love to see the rest of it!!! I build turbo kits for snowmobiles in Sweden for costumers. www.tikka.se And i have a plan to build a rear mont turbo on my BMW 750 E32. Same thing with the 750 no room around the V12 engine. I also have a 1990 Nissan 300ZX with bigger TD06-20G Mitsu turbos. I had to cut out in the frame part of the body to fit the bigger turbos in that car. Big front mont IC and 2x70mm Throttle bodys. Nitrous for spool. Running on E85 at 30 PSI boost. Car is scary fast traction is the biggest problem. Anyway i love to see the rest of your project and test drive. Wery wery intresting video 👍🇸🇪🇺🇸
I have 50000 miles on my rear mount and it is bolted via a steal plate to the trunk floor. No rubber what so ever..never has it come loose or cracked..that is what flex joints are for.
can you help me out?. id like to do this to my 2006 slk 55 amg. nobody makes a "kit" specifically for the car, and trying to find a mod/ tuner for mercedes is like digging for diamonds, but im thinking of using one of the sts kits that dont include the hot/cold air parts, along with an aftermarket fmu and a split second enricher. I dont plan to run the oil into the stock oil pan either, but rather mount an oil cooler in the trunk and give it its own oil supply. Any tips or heads-up on any unexpected issues you ran into would be extremely helpful.
Yes, I’d say we need better tuning that split second, one of the main things is timing retard for boost, then fuel increase as well. So you may need a better piggy back that can pull timing to compensate. As for the oil system.....I think you’ll find that it’s supper hard to send correct oil pressure to a turbo with a stand alone oil system, this is like the most common comment I get on RU-vid, if you don’t want to run oil from the motor you can run a oil less turbo from Comp turbo. Also I’m Building 2 new kits soon and I have figured out so much new stuff about remote mounting turbos it’s crazy......
@@GearheadsAutofab thanks for the reply! I hadn't thought about the pressure being such an issue. I guess the scavenger pumps are just enough to help it along? Any advice on a decent piggyback that wont break the bank? Also, have you ran into any issues with crankcase pressure?
I would call aem and ask about using one if there computers as a piggy back, there pretty cheap, as long as it will work on your car, also you’ll need some one to build you a adapter harness that’s about 500$ to use it, call boolslang in California, they can make them
We are running it from the engine back to the turbos with a -4 an line , then returning the oil to the upper pan with -10 lines from the turbos in to a scavenge pump mounted under the middle of the car. But you’ll see in a few days in the next video , we finished it today ......
Have you considered running oiless turbos (like COMP Turbo)? Then you don't need to run oil at all (along with the pump and all that stuff), just waterlines for cooling.
Sts makes kits for a lot of cars but they ran into oil return failed also if it rains and you hit a puddle there gonna suck water and look at the parts you pulled from down there it’s gonna look like those in no time this has been done but it can’t be an everyday car
I was wanting to Turbo my 2rzfe Toyota Tacoma. The only reason I'm making this comment is because I was going to put my Turbo underneath the bed behind my cab. This kind of reminds me of the idea I had
Hope you guys do another rear mount turbo 370z build the series offers alot of information on how to do it right through trial and error but the finished product is never clearly shown.
please help!! where did you get those parts to mount the turbo to your exhaust I'm doing this for my Tacoma and I need to know where you got those parts cuz I'm doing a DIY turbo system myself
@@GearheadsAutofab I'm looking for the specific part that hooks up to the turbo itself cuz usually you hook it up to an exhaust manifold but since we're doing it to the exhaust you have to buy a special part right and I don't know where to get that or how to make it is there anybody that makes those parts that I can go buy
