When lowering your trailer or raising your trailer, take the sway control completely off. You install after the trailer is hooked up. When backing up it's wise to either take it off or loosen it.
Haha, yah... bout that... Funny thing is that when I'm home, I see all the warts and dirt and problems with the trailer. Then I go camping and all that concern goes completely away. I could care less about the details when I'm actually using it, which is great as I can relax and enjoy where I'm at vs. what others might think about my rig. So I totally agree, but unless the rust is getting deep and threatening the structure, I won't likely spend time on it myself. Now the back end, with the added-on storage rack made from angle iron and plywood... That thing is about to fall apart, so that does need attention ;-)
Appreciate you taking the time to make this. Just got an ultra-lite travel trailer and was clueless as to what I need back there and now I'm good-to-go!
Good to hear this was helpful. Be sure you have your load-distribution hitch tuned before adding the sway-bar as well. Load distribution is key to not needing the sway bay-bar to work as hard to control the sway.
Great information ,We use the same sway control and it works great for us pulling our 33ft travel trailer. Thankyou for sharing.!! When I park I pull the sway bar off and store it till we leave campground. (that's just my way, we all have that)
Great video! I purchased a used trailer that already had one if these mounted, of course with no operation instructions, and your video is super useful! Thank you!
Well, I learned something new. I always thought that the friction bar was in lieu of the equalizer bars and not used together. Makes sense to me now. Thank you for sharing.
Glad it makes sense now! Definitely different functions, and both truly necessary if your tow vehicle isn't a super tough truck (and my Highlander certainly doesn't come close!)
Leveling bars if you need them, theyre purpose is to mechanically push more weight onto the front wheels to steer better, its always better to have a vehicle thats more than capable to handle your trailer & manage trl tongue weight, as for that friction bar thats restricts sway, it works both ways, it doesnt want to let trk & trl return straight either resulting in wandering & possible Wreck
The way I understand, if you look at the sticker on the bar, you tighten the top all the way as it says. The lower bolt is for adjusting the amount of friction. So once you get that set the way you like the top one is for engaging and disengaging only.
I totally agree. I'm not using it like it was designed, but for me I like the ability to adjust it depending on the conditions. I count the threads exposed and adjust up/down from there. A classic example of 'Doing things Dan's way' for sure...
they say the E2 equalizer does both although It may not be as much friction as the friction bar you have. and they are very loud. They sell a pad that quiets the noise but less friction. Since the equalizer came with camper I'll be trying that. thanks
thank you for your response. I just saw a you tube saying that if you have the load distribution anti sway with bars without the small chains that you don't need the friction anti sway. The bars will create the friction needed to control sway . Anyway I now undersatnd the whole anti sway load distribution thing. I see you are going to a Highlander which I am also doing and selling the Honda odyssey. 🙂
You bring up an interesting point. The chains allow the car/trailer to sway easily, but the load-distribution hitches that use solid bars could also function as anti-sway friction points. I'll have to look that up...
I had mine too tight......popped the mounting screws off the hitch! So I drilled it out a little bit and put stainless steel screws in it that were slightly larger......lesson learned.
Actually the bottom nut is what makes the tightness adjustment. That way you can always bottom out the top one and the adjustment is the same each time
Yeah, i do the same actually. To be honest, i am not sure if i know anyone that does the adjustment with the bottom bolt, but that is technical how it should be done... lol
@@asianfire72 Hey cool. Glad you confirmed I'm not that odd... Wish I had explained this better in the video, but unfortunately I can't update content without re-publishing the video... Thanks again!
My 10 year-old sway bar has always creaked and groaned worse then me getting out of bed in the morning. Really loud and annoying. What do you think the problem is?
Mine also make s a lot of noise when turning. I need the sway protection when on the freeway, so I don' tighten it down until just before getting on the freeway, and again loosen it when I get off at the destination. Sort of a pain, but definitely worth the effort to not creek and groan through the neighborhood or campground. Definitely keep the balls greased as well.
Yes, the rep bars are to redistribute weight from the rear tires to the front of the tow vehicle. The sway bar help to reduce left/right swaying motions. Be sure tong weight is correct before relying on a sway bar to get stable.
A lot of that noise might be there’s no lube anywhere on your hitch. Happens a lot with semi trailers and fifth wheels that sit in yards a lot. Those torsion bars suck but they work. Funny 37 years driving big trucks and what does my wife wanna do by an RV and go camping when I retired. I did it but only way were getting another one is if we buy a Class A.400k. should do it.Not a whole bunch of setting up,taking down.push a button it’s leveled. I can sit and watch people try to back in theyre trailers all day.maybe $5 and I’ll back it in. Great side job.kidding. Nobody was born knowing how to back a trailer.Take as many try’s as you need.
No lube on the 5th wheel also creates friction which is what causes steering to be less responsive and not return straight & when carrying a 20ton machine you feel the tractor wandering, You dont want to add restriction between the tractor & trailer where their designed to pivot ( thats what that stupid antisway bar is doing)instead use a vehicle with overspec'd suspension and manage your tongue weight properly & most important drive with "Zero Distractions" and be smart.
Yes. The 'proper' way to use this is to use that bolt to set the stiffness, and to always bury the hand-crank down tight. I prefer to adjust the tightness based on where I'm driving (city vs. highway). I just count visible threads. This lets me go extra tight if there are gusty conditions. I'm not saying this is the 'right' way, just 'Dan's Way'...
I did notice that your hitch doesn't have a safety pin installed on it's lever lock. I assume your trailer doesn't have any electric brakes so it doesn't have the break away link. Right? I always set my sway bar when I pull my trailer at the beginning of towing it. That way I never have to worry about it. Thanks for taking the time to post the video. Have a great New Year. :)
I should have had a safety pin as I do have electric brakes. I'm not quite sure I understand your comment on the break away 'link'. What is the link you mention here?
@@DansWay He is talking about the brake away switch, its a small box on the trailer that connects to the brakes and then there is a cable that goes to your tow vehicle. If for some reason the trailer becomes disconnected from the tow vehicle the cable will pull out a small pin on the box which will engage the brakes on the trailer so it doesn't keep going down the road. Here is one at e-trailer www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Tekonsha/2005-P.html
I just loosten the tension so it slides easily. Backup camera shows me how far I can turn before pinching the bar. Not a problem unless I'm trying to round a corner. When I un-hitch, I just leave the bar attached to the trailer side.
It totally depends on how stable you feel at freeway speeds. When you steer left/right quickly, does your tow vehicle remain solid, or do you feel like the trailer pushes you around? When a big-rig goes by on a two lane freeway, do you feel stable or does your rig oscillate back and forth a bit? These are a couple of things that the sway bar helps to stabilize.
Hey Clark. These definitely are in addition to the load-distribution bars. Those bars don't do much to directly control sway, but they do impact the load balancing. You want to get the load distribution bars tuned as best as you can BEFORE adding the anti-sway bar. The anti-sway bar could easily mask the fact that your loading and distribution is out of whack.
I was watching you video on installation of a anti-sway bar, but you didn't mention if the vehicles should be loaded up before putting on the anti- sway bars? Do I need to load it up before I install?
I’m thinking of buying this, Dan. Have a question cause I’m new to this. Would this be recommended for someone who’s driving up and down mountains (Rockies) where i have to take sharp curves? Seems like it would break the bar
There is no problem turning with the bar. It is designed to show down the otherwise uncontrolled movements of the trailer. I only disconnect or listen when I’m in a residential or campground as it is a bit noisy at times.
What I installed in this video is an anti-sway bar. The other pair of bars are the load-distribution bars. Those transfer weight from the tow vehicle's rear tires to the front which helps in vehicle handling.
@@DansWay I’m going to pick up my camper this weekend and the dealer offered to add sway bars to the quote. I was just wondering if that is the thing you installed in this video or the actual bars. Sorry for lack of knowledge on the subject. First timer
@@slappadabass3290 Hey no worries! We all get smarter by asking questions, and there are plenty of others who don't even bother asking... Enjoy the new trailer!
@@slappadabass3290 Dealer is probably trying to sell you a weight distribution system with built in sway control. Most RV dealers now a days will not sell you the separate friction sway control shown here but an all in one system. In saying that I also use the type show here *we use 2 of them as our trailer is over 25ft long), and have been for the last 30 years of RV towing. If you tow in cold climates where there could be ice (black ice) or even snow on the road then you need to be able to disconnect the sway control system otherwise if you hit an ice patch/snow it can push you off the road. Last few years since I retired we travel from our place in Canada to the southern US in December and have come across bad road conditions that called for us to not only slow down but disconnect (loosen) the sway control bars.
Hi Dan, I am towing an 18' single axle travel trailer weighing 3200 lbs. with a GMC Savana van with a tow package and I have no problem with sway even when a tractor trailer passes me. My tongue weight is 407lbs. and I have no problem with weight distribution so I don't use one. My issue is a front to back rocking motion when I go over a little bump in the road. Would a sway bar help to correct that situation? I was also going to try putting an extension on between the ball and the itch to see if that would help. Any suggestions?
Wow, that is a strange one. Sounds more like your front/rear shocks are weak. Your tongue weight sounds perfect. The sway bar would do nothing. A load distribution hitch could help as it would fight the rocking motion (I believe). You could move a bit more weight forward, then apply a small amount of load force on the bars. Unfortunately, there isn't an easy way to test this without installing the whole setup... I'd have your shocks checked first, and perhaps upgraded to a slower response. It will roughen the ride a bit, but could help. None of this is easy...
Yea i got same issue with my boat trailer. Leaf spring shocks all around so no adjustments snd no load shifting anywhere because its a boat. Only thingbi can think is the load distribution in the truck being less weight in thr bed and all in the ftront.. as well as the boat having all weight in the back and nonevin front but the trailer distributes its weight enough where i can barely pick up the tongue and balance it on the axle.. but the truck has all its weight up on the front axle… always..
@@DansWay Measure the distance between the ground and a point on the rear of tow vehicle, say from the ground to the bottom of the rear fender wheel well. Now hitch up the trailer. Remeasure the same points. The two distances should not be more the about 1"+/-. If it is a lot longer or shorter, one of two things are needed: 1. stronger shocks in the rear of your tow vehicle or, 2. a weight distribution hitch.
I wouldn’t extend the ball mount. As you increase the distance between the ball (trailer attachment point) and the rear axle of the tow vehicle, you decrease the stability of the whole rig. In any case, I don’t think it would help your issue. Stick to the suggestions of these other posters.
Haha, ok.... Well, I agree that it isn't a real truck for sure. Just the term my family has used over the years for our larger SUV vs. our cars... I like that the Highlander does a good job towing while being very comfortable to drive.
Great video! I purchased a used trailer that already had one if these mounted, of course with no operation instructions, and your video is super useful! Thank you!
