I'm currently using p60 glass paper to remove old black gloss from an internal door frame as a previous tenant must have preffered that shade and I have to say it's really tough to remove so I'm removing all the old gloss back to near bare wood as then I would have a nice smooth clean surface to prime undercoat and then 1-2 top coats which in theory should give a really good finish hopefully I could have gone for a heat gun but figured a bit of graft never hurt and I'm saving money as no electric usage required no fire risk etc each to their own and I considered chemical but cos I'm indoors I had to thing of fumes so instead I'm breathing in dust from sanding I probably should have bought some dust masks it's taking a while to sand but it's slowly getting there the really awkward areas I can probably get away with roughing up with sandpaper then hoover and wipe with a damp cloth and then 2-3 top coats of gloss
Pure pearls of wisdom. 30 years ago I helped a very capable painter paint my parent's brick house. The paint was badly oxidised and flaking and the mortar was weak in many places(built during WWII). Rubbing the palm of your hand on the paint would leave your hand covered in white dust. Had to pressure wash every wall and re mortar 15% of the bricks. Majority of paint flaked off. Then it was spray painted with Taubmans White All Weather Gloss with an oldfields HPHV airless spray unit. Painting the bricks only with a brush was not a viable option. The machine was used to lay a good amount of paint on the surface and a brush used to cover the crevices. Went through 4 20l drums. Apart from a few movement cracks, the paint job is still in excellent condition. Moral of the story: the prep is 70% of the job and if you are prepared to put the effort in, results will follow. Thanks for the videos.
Painting a ceiling /walls in a flat is fine , but every time it gets a scuff or fly poo you’re going to have to get paint and brush to touch up ..and hopefully right colour match.. ..Or paint with a low sheen and wipe any scuffs or fly pops away with just a wet rag
Low sheen is best for walls and it does wash a lot easier then flat. Flat is often used on ceilings because generally it doesn't show join marks when you roll it on. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
Hi, say if i want to end up with a blue frinish on my doors or windows, would it mater if i use a grey primer then a white undercoat? or white primer and white undercoat, which way around is best, thanks
I’ve had my walls all plastered and I’ve put the base coat on the plaster and left it,,that’s perfect I think then I’ve put dulux silk on the walls then 6 months in,,the kids have marked the wall and some of the silk paint has peeled off,,, I want to change it al and have bought some Matt that is tough and and easy to clean apparently but do I need to take all the silk paint off first before I can paint the new stuff on 👍👍🤔🤔
If the paint is peeling off then it sounds like the wall was still powdery and maybe all the silk will need to come off. Just try different place of the wall for adhesion, you might not need to remove it all. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe
Nothing too rough, I usually use 120 grit, if the door is in bad condition then 80 grit , a good undercoat should fix any sanding marks. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
Hi, depends on how deep the blue is, for a light blue a white undercoat is fine but for a dark blue you would be better of using a grey undercoat. It doesn't matter what colour your primer is unless you are going to use white undercoat, then a light colour primer would be best. Take a look at my website, Do I Need To Prime Before I Paint, this may help you as primer is not always required. Link is on home page of my youtube channel.
So you plan to do 1 undercoat, & 2 gloss coats. Undercoat makes a smooth surface, so you are saying need sand afterwards ?, 1st coat gloss, so need sand afterwards ? Only last coat need not be sanded ?
Great tips. Nice one mate. In terms of sanding a glossy service, how pedantic do you need to be? Every trace of "shine"? Or just a quick rough over with sandpaper?
DT Well I wouldn't say every tiny bit of shine needs to be gone but you will need to give the surface a good sand. I'll try to do a video on that this week.
Hi, quick question can you put alkyd paint over acrylic? I know it's possible the other way, eg. Pigmented sealer followed by water-based low sheen for example
My old wall paint not flat it has dots on it for looks and my dad said it keeps the paint much longer on walls. Do i need to sand it before painting over it? Cuz i want to change the color by my self
It always pays to give things a sand before you re-paint them, not sure exactly what you mean but sanding is a good thing and it sounds like a light sand is all it needs. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
I’m trying paint over lead, do I sand? My son blood came back 10. I cannot afford the big fix but I was told to wet wipe and prime and paint. Home is 1938 structure, I’d appreciated any any guidance.
I'm not sure what is the best as in the past I have always sanded it but with more modern concerns they say not to sand. The issue is the dust so you could try using wet/dry sand paper and keep the surface damp so you don't cause dust. When done wipe down with a damp cloth. Also use a good primer, that should help with adhesion. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
Can you paint over vinyl paint with Matt without sanding? I have a horrible artex wall which you won't be able to sand but someone painted it with shiny paint will the Matt stick or peel
Thank you. Good tips. Can you please advise an amateur how to choose brushes for a water based semigloss door and if foam rollers are better than eg 4mm nap roller.
I am working my way through your vids and they are very informative. Correct me if I am wrong: a. good 4" brush synthetic with (split?) ends (~$25 range). (two colour bristle with tips being stressed) b. short nap roller or foam? c. paint quickly to allow brush or roller to "glide" over paint and leave fewer marks d. finish by "soft touch" fast glide (lay off) over the paint surface? Is the speed of the brush important? I appreciate your short and to the point style :) and yes, I generally click on thumbs up.
So if I’m painting walls that are flat paint and repainting with semi-gloss, should I sand or just scrape off areas that are little bubbly/sandy stick up spots? Our house was painted pretty badly before we bought it and painting our son’s room which we did sand was a complete nightmare.
You should give the walls a light sand just to get rid of any lumps etc on wall, semi gloss would stick without sanding. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
If both paints are water based it should be fine, silk is like a low sheen so just make sure the surface is clean before you start. A light sand is always a good idea. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
howtopaintinfo thank you! I’ve subscribed! I’ve already painted over the silk but where they did the cutting in, its shiny! I think I will go sand and paint again
John Stevenson It's just a pole sander, you can buy either round or rectangle shaped ones, they are attached to an extension pole or a broom handle with a threaded end.
Stop 🥺 Please never let a painter paint anything in flat. I’m a painter we never use a flat because you can’t clean fly poo off it or easily clean. Don’t do it.
Flat paint is fine for ceiling but yes don't use flat paint on trim and only use on walls if you desire the look of flat paint but it won't be as washable as a low sheen. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
Simple, most ceiling these days are done with plaster board /drywall and flat is used to hide the flushing joins, it's also good as it will also hide the rolling joins too.
