Once again Peter, you show how layout is key. You make that look easy but with the different dimensional issues and a few mental 3D gymnastics, it really takes some practice to make it look easy. Nicely done and explained.
Specter your ingenuity has been a huge help. I find myself using your tips and suggestions more and more in the shop. Thanks for the great video content .
Good general principle, brilliant implementation. Like the use of the rail, especially. Love seeing dog collars in action again. Ha! Every time I use the Domino I'm reminded that I want to get some. This video may have pushed me over the edge.
Interesting watch for me that Peter, many thanks. One quick question, a few people have suggested to me converting my MDF worktop to an MFT style table. I’m pretty sure the holes are 20mm, but what is the distance between the holes please? Think it’d help me with the dogs and collar type things to secure stuff in place. Cheers, Leo
Interesting video. I'm certainly going to use those tips for aligning the stops for repetitive domino cuts using the rail. Very helpful. Thanks! But I can't get my head around marking "on the fly". As part of my cut list for the wardrobes and chests that I tend to make I calculate the positions of all the hinges, drawer runners, shelf supports, dominos and pocket holes relative to the 2 reference edges of each board, i.e. the top and front. Admittedly the Blum Carcase Profile Drilling Template (65.1051.02) helps - (best £54 I've spent), but once I've started cutting there's no more calculating to be done and no more messing about aligning drawer fronts and hinges.
Peter, thanks the video. You provided me with some good tips. I can understand why you would not want pencil marks on items that will have a finish put on them. However, what is your obsession with "no pencil marks" on something that's getting painted? If the paint is any good the marks should not show through. Those unwanted marks can act as a cross check and prevent mistakes when working in haste.
Thanks. Sorry, I think you’ve got the wrong end,of the stick; I’m not anti pencil marks for what they are, I’m anti measuring & marking everything when you’re working on identical pieces. Measure & mark one, then use that as the reference for your stops and flags for the multiples, is just a more efficient way of working, is all. 👍👍
I use tracksaw guide rails (similar to this) to align dominos mid board, but I can't help thinking Festool missed a trick: With the Lamello dowel jointer they have that indexed rail that the tool registers in so, not only can you do shelf pins, but also align the joinery consistently mid-board.
To be honest I never even noticed those locating pins were on the domino. Always wondered how you were positioning the domino so fast when I couldn’t even see a pencil line in previous videos.
When I'm feeling particularly particular about my pencil marks I use an artist's hard lead (4H) pencil. I sharpen it with a knife so I can flatten one side of the lead and then place that flat side against the straight edge. I can make a mark as thin or thinner than a marking knife but unlike a marking knife whose line I can't see, I can see my tiny little pencil line. Crazy, right!
Since i started woodworking i had always issues and was never completely statisfied With how things turned out... i always worked With A table saw becouse every (most) RU-vidrs recommend it.. but sometimes it was really A hastle to complete A cut... then i discovered your channel, thinking about the idea of A track saw system... and i gave it A go. With great succes ! Im feeling much more “safe” and With A mft style table cuts are always square, Nice and easy... and then i discovered another tool you seem to use A lot, the Domino 👌 my girlfriend was A bit sceptic about me buying A 800 euro tool that could just “drill Some holes” but i had the feeling that for me it could really change things ... SO again i Pulled the trigger... last week i received my domino and boy... it is really an amazing tool, precise, accurate... and it Lets me do joinery that i couldn’t do before... what i am trying to say here is ... that for me, your tips and approach is really game-changing, i did A huge step up on quality and that With Some easy techniques and tips... SO thank you for that Peter ! I look forward to every video that’s about to come and in the meanwhile i watch all the existing video’s you posted 😃
Very clever. The only comment I would add is that I use a mechanical pencil when I need the precision. The consistent lead diameter lends a more consistent line width versus the ever changing width of the conical sharpening of the wooden pencil. A mechanical pencil also saves time with a simple click instead of having to go back to the sharpener to keep a fine point on the wooden pencil. I won’t comment on the time lost futzing around when the lead gets broken and stuck ....😉 Thanks for another instructional video.
Another great video Peter, as usual full of useful tips. I use a mechanical pencil when working in my workshop, but I spend alot of my time working in customers houses where I tend to use a ordinary pencil, mainly because of the risk of losing my pencil, at least in the workshop I have half a chance of finding it. One thing I found interesting Peter was the length of the point on the pencil it looks like it's been sharpened in a sharpener, I only ever achieve that by using a chisel or knife to get a nice sharpe point?
@@grahambailey4168 Hi Graham. I use a desktop sharpener - see video# 125 Gifts to receive P1 - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Mma0Cysf3hw.html. Also as above, I like a mechanical pencil as well 👍👍
Great video mate.... is that a new bobbin sander I see ..... what's it like mate Iam currently looking at a few with a view too purchase one. Is that the triton. Cheers mate
Thanks! Yes, it’s the Triton belt & bobbin sander, has my eye on it for a little while and it came up ‘on special’ recently. I particularly wanted something relatively light that I could chuck under the bench when I’m not using it. Works well so far, haven’t used it a great deal but will be putting it through its paces before too long. 👍
Have you tried the Festool Cross Stops 498590? I use them on table tops to get a max of 250mm on centre between dominoes. They are not foolproof but they do avoid pencil marks.
Nice one Peter, You have all the gear, Domino and Benchdogs...BUT I have sharp pencil envy...Surely you can make a video on pencil sharpening... btw..i am making a bathroom corner unit with 15mm Medite MRMDF (using this for the first time) If it goes well its down to you... if it goes wrong it down to you...
Nice video as always! Are there occasions when you do some initial dominos to get a dry assemble of a carcass and then do the markings for the last dominos for like shelves or other parts? I mean if it gets to be such a complex build that making all dominos in one go would be inefficient due to strange measurements or such? Cheers!
Thanks again Peter. Just a quick question. How wide would the board need to be for you to add a 3rd Domino? What I'm really getting at is what is the maximum space you would have between Dominos in 18mm MDF?
Thanks! A lot depends on the stresses that the carcass is likely to come under e.g. something with doors attached will always be stressed more at the ides than something without. but as a general rule of thumb, if I'm not using any kind of mechanical fixings then I'll start adding mid-Dominos in at around 250mm wide, or so 👍
Thanks! I use an OSX / iOS app called Graphic. It’s actually a full vector illustration app that does far, far more than the simple 2-D line drawings I use it for. Because it’s an illustration program though, there are a couple of irritating missions from a ‘drawing plans’ perspective (e.g. no ‘tape measure’), but it works to scale in metric and is a very reasonable one-off purchase, so I can work around those niggles.👍👍
Thanks Steve! I use an OSX / iOS app called Graphic. It’s actually a full vector illustration app that does far, far more than the simple 2-D line drawings I use it for. Because it’s an illustration program though, there are a couple of irritating missions from a ‘drawing plans’ perspective (e.g. no ‘tape measure’), but it works to scale in metric and is a very reasonable one-off purchase, so I can work around those niggles.👍👍 p.p1 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px 'Helvetica Neue'} span.s1 {font: 12.0px '.Apple Color Emoji UI'}
I'm far too impatient for measuring, I prefer just eyeballing everything. Things even line up (sometimes 😂) Is that a new Sander behind you? I don't recall seeing a bright orange sander previously (or maybe I've never noticed it)
Some early Domino models (mine’s one) has issues with the fence slipping, and the plate takes the fence out of the equation. It has a couple of other advantages as well - see video #271 for more detail 👍👍
