This is no BS I was actually thinking “man it sure would be nice for an experienced carpenter like Ron to maybe make a video about woodworking jigs to help a beginner” and sure enough within hours one shows up! Perfect timing! Wasn’t exactly what I was hoping for but it was informative nonetheless. :) I’ve used the Collins coping jig though and it works.
Thank you for taking time to explain the logic behind your initial approach, the problem you encountered, and how you overcame the problem with the simplest solution. It's gotten me thinking outside the box a little more. I admire not only your CONstruction skills, but your INstruction skills.
Ron, You know I love what you do and the modification to the jig was great. If it was me and knowing what you know now I would leave the jig as is and build two shorter units setting one on top of the other. I believe that would give the support you need without any modifications to anything... Great Work.
Take the distance between the tops of two existing slots and subtract 3/4", then cut a spacer strip to this width. This would allow you to leave the existing jig as it is. Similarly, if you wanted a different spacing for another cabinet, say 1", all you would have to do is cut another spacing strip.
David Dickson agreed otherwise you have to remember to use the spacer every single time you start a new project. Instead of only using a spacer if and when you needed to
I am glad that you understand what you have discussed but I do not, I am not a cabinet maker for an engineer and I’ve been doing woodwork for number of years but I haven’t made too many cabinet,How I have missed what to illustrate.
You could make all the drawer sides and back, let’s say 13/16” shorter. The drawer faces can all be the same size. This would make everything modular still, and you could put spreaders in ANY cabinet size almost anywhere. No jig mod. Just an adjustment to cut list for all drawer sides and back.
@@chrisE815 make the drawers shorter so a spreader can be put in the cabinet anywhere. Admittedly you loose sone drawer space. I had to do this on some of mine.
Hi Ron! Have you considered using a shallower dado in which to run your cabinet drawer bottoms? Maybe 1/4 or 5/16? Also, are all the drawer parts 1/2 inch?
I didn’t know which model you had but I’ve seen some of their stuff is over $400 probably closer to $500 with tax & shipping. I was right with Atlas though! :)
Jason, it is Atlas 46, but I know of no $400 dollar apron they offer. I am wearing my $99 Atlas46 apron in this video and I am pretty sure it is the most expensive one Atlas46 offers. They make Vest that with all of the options can run $400, but it is not what I am wearing nor what Brans asked about.
Hi Ron... I suppose the mod could have been in reverse...instead of removing your original end stop and reducing it....you could have possibly made a larger packer and worked the adjustment to your system in reverse ..mathematically.
Ron Paulk table saw? I just saw a jig. And two seconds of a table saw. Anyway. Almost done with first half of my workbench. Gotta varnish it and keep ahead of the mold. The plywood here in Brazil is soft and molds super fast. Maybe the first Paulk Workbench in Brazil!?! Hardest part is building sawhorses and a table without sawhorses and a table! ;) Thanks Ron
As always I enjoy all of your videos and your style. But on this one I failed to see anything about the most versatile saw I will ever own... What did I miss?
The router is a saw that will cut any shape in addition to dados, rabbets, decorative edges, etc.. No other saw in existance will do all of these cuts, thus it is the most versitle saw you can own.
Ok Mr. Paulk, thanks for your explanation! I just never looked at a router in that manner. But I am always willing to open my eyes wider and expand my vision of understanding!!! Good job, I can now see clearly what you were saying!!!
I don't get it.. Why not simply cut the sides and back of one draw 3/4 shorter so the draw will not hit spreader ? That way draws all still look identical from front and no adjustments to rebates are required. Just a thought.. but sure you know best
David Wells Part of the goal here is modularity - he wants to be able to move the drawers around depending on usage. That is, if he's finishing a kitchen he might need easier access to things he wouldn't need if he's building a garage. If the drawers are custom, he can't just swap them in & out.
I am not sure if a router is a saw...can we say that a hammer is a screwdriver? Or that a chisel is a sander? A car can be a weapon as well as a way of transport... the vid references back to past vids but as it is I think most of its content gets lost in translation - this was my first Ron's vid ever watched and I am certain there is brilliance in there but without any past reference points one gets completely lost and can't make much sense of it. Of course I could go back and watch all else Ron has made but this is not being released as a series is it?
I love how butthurt commenters in here are about him calling a router a saw and telling him its not. These are the same guys who say Abigail Ratchford is ugly, when they have a 300 pound wife with a mustache at home.
Do double-duty shelving units that have sound-deadening foam or curtains on the front, then, that are sufficiently tall for the curtains, if nothing else: problem mitigated a bit!
I love jigs more than most people so this might be hypercritical here but think about this alternative for your repeating of daddos: Take your Festool track, mount the router to it, and make your self two parallel guides that reference in your daddos. The initial daddo might need its own set(if you don't want to adjust your parallel guides) in order to get that off the bottom spacing correct. Or make yourself two rows of regular line bores that your track can index in, that way you get on track to use a 32 mm increment system of spacing for your daddos. I totally agree with you on the beauty of jigs and routers, but Im thinking this was not the best fit.
I have made dozens of videos demonstrating template routing. I did a search on my channel with one word "router" and got a lot of hits. Note I have over 700 woodworking videos here. This is a link to one I did 6 years ago. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JSz-6WazgS4.html
@@TheSmartWoodshop youve gotta be one of the most misunderstood and underappreciated guys in the industry. your willingness and tireless efforts to help bring us all to a higher standard thru countless hours of designing, building, filming, and editing has not gone unnoticed. i for one see you, and appreciate your efforts to try and help make us all "better", i think we could all learn something not only from your skill-set, but also from your ethics and your character. Kudos Mr. Paulk, youre leaving quite a legacy. 👏👏👏
Should have titled it "Big ad for your trailer build/design". Not sure where there was a saw that is not a saw, but is a router. Calling a router a saw in woodworking or that they are interchangable, is like calling a network switch a router in networking. I want to watch you put a 15 inch saw blade on a router and then cut a full sheet of plywood in half without a 15 inch wide kerf and hold that router/saw with only your hands.
I thought I had many saws and yet not one of them will allow for a 15" blade. By your logic, I don't own a saw. Even though I don't own a saw, I can make any cut I choose in any type of wood and my router can make more of them than any other tool I own. I do thank you for letting me know that after 30 years of woodworking, I have never owned a saw.😎🤙
