I designed and built a new crosscut fixture to work with the 32mm system for a no calibration perfect square cut with enough capacity to cut a full sheet of plywood. www.thesmartwoodshop.com
I bought this for my friend for his birthday as we just moved into a new house and he finally has room for a workshop. The bench was very easy to set up ru-vid.comUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh They center support is a little difficult to snap in and out of place at first but at least then we know the bench is secure. It was a pleasant surprise when we saw it came with clamps. I apparently missed that in the description. My friend loves the versatility of the bench. Great starter bench for his workshop and easily transportable all over our property. I wish the bench was a little taller but the other features of the bench more than make up for that.
I would buy them once I build a new bench and switch to 20mm holes. I have to get organized fast. You are one of my main inspirations to become a contractor and someday leave my career as a corrections officer. Thanks for sharing all your knowledge!
Thanks Ron!--you just solved how to keep the bench from being scarred up. I almost ran a sacrificial MDF strip like the MFT, but this is more elegant. I have the workbench II finished and loving it. Front half (router side) is setup standard 90 degree x/y, and the back 2x8' section was setup with an isometric layout. This fixture will be perfect for either setup. Side note--Try the TSO precision dogs--they take a standard m8 based knob and are much easier to put in and out over the ones in the UJK kit (mine is version 1, not the new version 2 that you have). And yes..the UJK parf guide is amazing for laying out the top.
More useful tips on fixtures for the holes in the workbenches is a great video series to start. The euro style benches use lots of expensive jigs for the holes. Some home made versions with plans would be a awesome addition to your plan store.
Hi Ron. You got their first. I just sent plans off to a local cnc shop to machine me a top and 2 extra strips to make the exact same thing. Great minds think alike
Love the jig. New beginnings are totally exciting and I bet you will miss that pool. Ha ha, keep up the good work. Love your channel. Thanks for sharing all this great stuff
I noticed when you were laying out the initial 3mm holes with the Parf System that you started from the end of the board. Peter Parfitt recommends that if the length of your hole pattern is much greater than the length of your Parf stick that you start at the center of the board and then work out to the ends. Much less likely to introduce any alignment errors.
Ron's benches are a multiple of 32mm on 96mm centers. the first hole is 32mm from all edges and the second hole from the edge is 96mm. every hole after that is 96mm on center. When you get to the opposite end you will have the last two holes being 32 mm and 96mm from that edge.
One could use a UJK anchor dog next to your clamp to guarantee squareness. That is to say, one wouldn't have to remove the anchor dog because it could rest below the surface of your jig if the dado were made a little wider.
thanks for the videos. I'm just starting out and have a planer and jointer and wondering if something like this system and the Festool would be a good start for a beginning woodworker.
Hi Ron! Thanks for the video. I'd buy the plans if they were available. It would be worth the cost in the amount of time it would save having it all in one spot.
Great stuff Ron. I just discovered your RU-vid videos and webpage a couple days ago and I am learning so much. Also loving it - Thank You!!. Have you considered adding a couple of hanger hooks onto the sides of your bench (set up to flip or rotate in & out) to hang your long saw tracks on when they have the parallel guides attached? Watching that expensive/calibrated hardware sliding across that slippery cement floor made me instintively cringe - lol. Very good info though, and I'm afraid that I''ve started into what may become an extended Ron Paulk RU-vid binge watching marathon. Maybe I will emerge from my R.P. RU-vid cocoon in the spring when my covid vaccination is hopefully available - ha ha.
@@TheSmartWoodshop That's the updated one. If we bought that one can we have the plans to this one? I tried using a shelf pin jig for my dog holes on the main bench and they're a wee bit off, so I want a jig I can use that's square for cross cuts for now
Hi Ron. I was cutting 600mm sections repeatedly from a single, long (2440x~50mm) piece. For me it worked better to do the cuts about a quarter of the way along my Paulk Total Station (seriously, have you heard of them? They're great!) and feed the material right to left along the bench. This mean that the long piece I was taking parts off was supported by the other 3/4 of the bench to my right, and the piece I wanted I grabbed with my left hand and added to my components pile. I see that because of the fence, measuring tape, and stop block, my approach wouldn't work. That's fine, but I wonder how you manage feeding in larger pieces to systematically take chunks off them? Do you simply put another bench or saw horse or something to the right of the bench to hold it up?
I'd certainly be interested in plans for this jig. By the way, if I may be so bold. I think it may be time to treat yourself to a new set of sacrificial strips. Just a suggestion. ;-)
Also curious how you got your row of 20mm holes parallel to the T-rack? Did you use a spacer to set the perf stick away from the T-track perhaps? Thanks for the great videos.
Dude, nice hair, why did you cut it man. Thank you for all your insightful videos. bought your plans and in process of building my workbench. Just got to find the time.
Ron, @ 3:02 looks like you might benefit from adding a couple hanger hooks for the track on the front of the bench Ron. I see you went to put it down and it slipped. Seems all it would take is a nudge and it's gonna fall, but if it was hanging on a pair of hooks on the face of the bench it wouldn't and less chance of damage to the track.
A pair of Track Racks would work great for this situation. Wouldn't even have to lock them in. Just mount them upside down, stick the track in there when not using it, and that thing won't go anywhere.
Ron, the workbench that you are using your cross cut fixture on, is that your compact workbench 3x6? The holes on that workbench were made with the UJK parf jig, correct?
The PCB predates switching to metric so the holes are 20mm but laid out 102mm(4") Just ignore the layout on the plans and use the Parf Guide for 96mm spacing. I plan on updating the PCB to be exactly like the STS when I have time. Personally, I would get the STS and build it without the miter stuff and you will have the new PCB that I will be calling the SCB😎🤙
Hey Ron, excellent stuff. I wish I would have found you a long time ago actually. To get to the point, I am building a table based off of your design. I purchased some TSO bench dogs and the TDS-13. My question is for anyone really is regarding if I should build this cross cut as well or just utilize the bench dogs and TDS-13 for repeatable cuts. It seems like your design is more efficient and repeatable when breaking down and resetting up to make more of the same cut in the future. Is that an accurate statement? It seems like once set up, they both would work well. Am I correct in my thought process? I am going to be using this for everything, but my first task is to build cabinets for my kitchen as I am remodeling it. Thanks again.
Ron, I noticed you were using the UJK chamfer tool on plywood. The websites that sell this tool all have warnings that the tool should only be used on MDF and HDF. I assume they are worried about chipping the veneer. Have you had any problems? I don't have a router yet and this tool seems ideal otherwise.
Ron, Do you ever wish you had a cabinet saw or do the jobsite TS's cut quality and accuracy meet your needs? Your finish home remodels always look professional and spot on, I just wondered if you didn't need as much mobility if you would consider a cabinet saw. Also have you had a cabinet saw in the past? Thanks for your channel!
John Petsche I have not once miss having a cabinet saw. I get the results of a sliding table saw with my FT track and for rips 18” and under the SS job site table saw works as well as any cabinet saw.
Link to plans: stores.modularmarket.com/paulk_homes/index.php I use a table saw for narrow rips. I don't have an absolute, but 18" and under the table saw is my goto.
David Slinn yeah, I need to watch my words a little better. I rip with, table saw, track, router, miter saw, jigsaw or whatever works best for the task. My intended point was I only break down plywood with a track saw😎
I am planning on doing a review of the TSO soon. I am a field beta tester for TSO so my kit is a prototype from a few years ago. I should get the final set soon and after I put them through some testing, I will do a detailed review with my opinion. In short, I use the TSO for a lot, but the SCC is for production. When I build a set of cabinets with many dozen sides like when building the Smart Woodshop I set up the SCC. There is a lot of overlap, but I find plenty of uses for both. We live in a great time when we can get the accuracy and production of a 10' sliding saw with hand tools that go to the job.
two ways--(with jig above) use a spacer same thickness as your stock but wide enough to support the track. The measurement would be the tape minus your spacer. Make it about 300mm (~12 inches) from stop block to business side of the track, and as wide as you can (parallel to the track cutting side). Second way--use a jig on what is normally the 'waste' side of the track saw. Use 1/2" ply as a bottom for the jig and make 96mm dog holes to index into the bench (like the cutoff side in the SCC). Use 1x as a stop block and mount toggle clamps. Think taper jig for a table saw (slot out the 1x to adjust depth (width) of cut). Just remember--you are cutting on the 'opposite' side of the track, so have to add in the blade kerf to the measurement--the good stock comes out the 'waste' side. If you dont, what you cut is going to be a bit of 2mm short.
Of course not. It's massively over engineered and completely unecessary. The holes serve no useful function unless you're face clamping things down. (and even then there's much simpler ways). You just need an 8ft straight batten fixed to one side of your table and two blocks of wood nailed down square to it to rest the track against. This 32mm system shit is getting way out of hand.
@@juancornetto8243 No. You are completely wrong. I have a wood technology degree from EKU. I have worked in multi million dollar wood labs. This system is a complete revolution. It replaces many of the 6 figure machines I used for commercial set ups. It is just as accurate, and much easier to use. The original Festool MFT table is a great idea poorly executed. Ron is a straight up genius. He fixed 90% of Festool's problems for them.
Thanks Ron. I’m planning to do most of your things including the van trailer as I need to shift between home, warehouse and job sites. Your work is going to save me months if not years of exploring. One more question, if the following Festool table saws are both available in NA, which one will you buy to add to your smart workshop: CS 50/70 or TKS 80?
Ron, from watching your videos, I see that you have switched between metric and imperial. (You previously drilled 3/4" holes on 4" centers but now you're using the 20mm hole 96mm parf system. Which do you recommend for U.S residents? UJK's metric tools seem superior than other vendors but I'd like to drill 3/4" holes on 4" centers for a future bench since I live in the U.S. and have better access to imperial tool systems.
It really only matters if you intend to use the grid for cutting or clamping precise 30, 45, 60 or 90 angles. If so use the Parf Guide II for accuracy of the hole pattern. If not it really doesn’t matter how accurate the pattern of holes. 96mm is based on the 32mm system. I work in both metric and imperial but use imperial tool sizes.
I began woodworking with my father in the mid 50's, and of course I began with "standard measurements" meaning inches and feet. I am now 71 yrs old and working in the shop everyday. Although imperial is easy for me, I made the switch to metric several years ago and find it easier and more accurate in cabinet building. Along with that switch came many Festool replacements for my power tools. going back and forth between metric and imperial isn't a challenge. I opened a drawer the other day and found my first "orange makita" 7.2VDC cordless drill from about a 1975-6 version, but it can't hold a candle in power and performance to my 5+ year old Festool or even some old Milwaukee's & Bosche cordless drills. Ron is a master at what he has done, and with the Paulk workbenches. His making the switch to the 32mm system w 20mm holes on 96mm centers is terrific. I've had an MFT3 table and track saw for maybe 8-9 years now, and the plans for the SCC will replace the MFT3 table/crosscut track. It is GREAT with the Parf Dogs, I just wasn't smart enuff to figure it out......Ron Did it....I used the MFT3 table so much it had to be turned over a couple years ago and I have a lot of "sacrificial" junk plywood laying around, I was just too blind to think about it, instead of ruining the table top. Some of us old dudes have made the switch to metric, I don't think you should have any problem. Thanks for the Awesome Videos Ron, keep 'em coming.
You would need to make sure that the height of he track then is perfect and will not bend or flex because that could throw the cut out and make it so it is not square.
I saw an older video where you were packing up to leave that borrowed space. Did the landlord feel bad about kicking you out into the cold cruel world?
Well, no. Jobsite table saws have a limited rip capacity and even if the fence could manage your desired rip, it's sketchy at best to try and run a full sheet on the small table with only a small amount of fence before you get to the blade. Ripping full sheets is a much safer and more accurate with a track saw. Ron is hooking you up with the repeatable production side of things.
The distance between centres is 96mm on an MFT table, possibly the confusion comes from a rail that Festool sells designated as LR32, this rail has holes spaced at 32mm on centres and can be used for shelf pin holes. As it is 32mm it can also be used for making centre holes for an MFT table by using every third hole.
Why multiples of 32mm for goodness' sake? If metric why not a 50 or 100 mm grid, and 32mm isn't an imperial whole number either. Is this some elaborate practical joke ?
As far as i know it stem from the period just after WWI. They needed/wanted to mass produce furniture and the closest you could get drill heads together was 32mm
@@tomfirens1400 hey thanks for the reply, Tom. I guess that makes sense as an origin though i don't see the business case in 2019 for 96 vs 100. SO much horrible arithmetic and risk of error for no good reason. I am very happy my certiflat welding fixture table has 100.00 mm centres, and i plan to stick with that when setting out for the torsion box woodwork bench with hole grid that i am planning. Regards, Nev
Or you can get a FastCap dual scale rape measure for $10 that has marks every 32mm. I work in both metric and inland you get the sizes into your head after a while. 50mm is about 2 inches...
It's not relevant to woodworking I don't suppose, but 32 is a nice round number in computers, which use binary. 1, 2, 4, 8, 16, 32, 64, 128, 256, 512, 1024, etc. As a software developer, I quite like it. I even had a 32nd birthday party instead of a 30th. :)
