Drill Doctor 750x Solved!! - Right Way to Sharpen a Drill Bit to a 135 Deg Angle with a Split Point 

My pleasure. Thanks for watching

It looks like you have played Metallurgist when you did the split point. Which aligns with the comment of ramming the chuck into the split point port. Looking at the drill bit it appeared to have a color change. This indicates a change in the metal properties of the drill bit. The bit has become less hard. So slow down to decrease the heat build up. Heat does reduce material properties and how you cool it down (water, oil, air,etc.) establishes the hardness. Lessons from my Materials Class in college.

THX very imformative

Appreciate the support

It actually is printed in the instruction booklet. One notch *(- to the right of 118) for 135 degree sharpening..

​@@anthonyash3103 throws me off that the groove of the split point now disrupts the step one: chuck alignment: the JAWS are now grabbing the bit differently.......but, not a problem?

For sure

Lol yeah guess nobody reads. I was going to make the same comment.

This video was made prior to a revision in the manual.

@@VermontPrepper ohhh didn't know that. My bad

Mostly men using it ..what do expect? !!we only speed read the manual 😂😂 myself included aka" look at the pictures "

haha, see, you have a different manual. MY 750x has a 135 mark on the alignment head as the LAST index hole (closest to the sharpener), and the manual says roughly "for splitting 135 degree align using the 118 mark" (I can pull it out and quote it....). this may explain why I've _never_ gotten a function drillbit out of mine for 135 (worked fine for 118). I bought mine in '07.

Appreciate the kind words. Thanks for watching.

Much appreciated. Thx for watching

Appreciate the kind comment. Thx

throws me off that the groove of the split point now disrupts the step one: chuck alignment: the JAWS are now grabbing the bit differently.......but, not a problem?

Glad I could help. I messed up a number of drills experimenting, lol!

Yes, I did this video awhile ago and I heard the same thing

Awesome. Glad it worked for you

Thanks for watching

Glad it helped

Outstanding

Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching. It was frustrating to me as well

Thx for watching

Good suggestions. This video was kind of a spur of the moment cause I was so happy that I figured it out - hence the poor filmography

Thx for watching

Thanks for watching

My pleasure. Thx for watching

It took me awhile to figure it out. The information is buried in the instructions

It actually is printed in the instruction booklet. One notch *(- to the right of 118) for 135 degree sharpening..

the manual does explain: 1 notch to the right..... and adjustments if still off, fyi

Glad it helped

Did it work?

Awesome. Glad it helped

Nice

Thanks for the comment and for watching

Thanks Bob. Appreciate the kind words

Appreciate you watching

Hi Susan. Thank you for watching and subscribing. Appreciate the support.

You are welcome!

Lol. Glad I can help.

It actually is printed in the instruction booklet. One notch *(- to the right of 118) for 135 degree sharpening..

@@anthonyash3103 Yes, it does mention that in the updated manual but that info is absent in the manual from 2010.

Thanks Kavana. Glad the video helped.

@@VermontPrepper No need to thank me your video has made my boss so happy because our drill doctor 750x has been sat for months not in use and I have been trying for weeks to work out how to use it going on here I tryed 5 other videos and had no luck with them until I come across your video and you just explained everything in such clear detail so It all made sense to me. Now we have the sharpest drill bits money can buy so thanks again 👍👍👍👍👍👍

Thx for watching

Awesome. Glad it worked for you

Glad it was helpful!

Took me a while to break the code- lol

I think they did update since this video.

I have the same issue with the splitting port. Even after minutes spent slowly advancing the thing into the wheel, it won't grind deeply enough to join the split lines at the chisel tip. Plus my machine's wheel mandrel apparently wasn't pressed onto the motor shaft far enough. I had to put a shim between the motor and the mounting plate to move the wheel inward. Otherwise it left a ~15 thousandths remnant of the chisel tip between the cutting edges. It's also as though the wheel is too low for the splitting port such that the bit can't advance far enough to complete the split. It seems to bind on something. I'll try rocking the chuck as you describe.

It actually is printed in the instruction booklet. One notch *(- to the right of 118) for 135 degree sharpening..

@@anthonyash3103 I was thinking the same thing The instructions were pretty clear and precise even the troubleshooting part at the end of the instruction guide was easy to comprehend I did a quick read of it while I took a shit and had no problems I wonder how many are trying to change 118 bit to 135 and that change is were the confusion and poor results are coming from

Great point!

Yes, you are exactly correct. Ugh!

Most welcome

Thx, it works good

It's what worked for me

@@VermontPrepper thank you I just sharpened 8 bits one of which is a masonry bit that I'm not convinced but the other 7 look great using you tutorial, thank you because I as well had flat top bits LoL 😅 prior and no other video addressed it like you.

@@ChrisNieves For carbide-tipped masonry bits, don't use the alignment port. Position the bit so that the carbide insert lines up with the two marks on the bottom of the chuck itself. Set the MTO (grinding depth) by extending the bit about an inch from the back of the chuck and tighten to just snug so the bit can slide up into the chuck with modest pressure. Plunge the chuck into the sharpening port while the machine is turned off so the grinding wheel acts as the depth stop, then fully tighten the chuck. Also, don't turn the chuck in the sharpening port while grinding. Plunge only with the white marks aligned with the cam follower. You are simply recreating the tip angle of the carbide and rendering the cutting face notch-free. A carbide masonry bit needn't be "sharp", it just needs to be shaped. Metal and wood get sliced by the cutting edge, Masonry simply gets pulverized by the cutting face.

Glad you think so!

Let me know how it works

If you have been going to the plus side your bit should not have been flatter, it without question should be more of a taper as you go more to the plus side.

I think they fixed it since this video

I will check it out

Don't ask. Lol. No idea. Doesn't make sense. It just works

Maybe they revised it. That's good if they did

That's what I hear

Same way for me

A split point is generally optional on a 118 drill. The chisel point is acute enough to pilot the bit into the material well enough to avoid walking. 135 bits require a split point, as their slow rate of advance would have them walking all over the work before finally settling in, especially when drilling metal. One generally doesn't want to use a 118 bit to drill metal. A 118 bit in metal advances too quickly, making a ragged hole and demanding excessively high torque from the drill motor. As a general rule a split point doesn't offer any real advantage for drilling through wood, but there are exceptions. If you want to split your 118 bits for tasks such as drilling into finished cabinet wood very accurately or you are drilling very hard wood such as white ash or ironwood, go for it. Start with the chuck in the 118 slot. If the chisel point angle is too close to 90 degrees from the cutting edges or the split doesn't converge on the center of the chisel point, try moving the chuck 1 or 2 notches toward the + side of the 118 slot. You may have to iterate to find the sweet spot, and that spot might change from one brand of bits to another due to differences in the flute pitch.

The jaws grab both sides of the drill, so the cuts for the split point cancel each other out. Alignment ends up the same.

hope this video helped with 135

This was not the purpose of the video

Works for me every time

@@VermontPrepper was you using drill press or hand held drill if hand held drill it took a lot of pressure to make it cut

Did you get the left-handed attachment because you have left-twist bits that turn counter-clockwise, or because you yourself are left-handed? The left-handed chuck has the cam system mirrored for sharpening in the counter-clockwise direction. The drill doctor can't do a split point on a left-handed twist bit (I don't believe,) as the splitting port can't be switched to the other end of the grinding wheel. Using the default end of the wheel will grind off the cutting edge of each flute instead of the heel.

Yes, I heard

Your welcome

When you write, try using proper sentence structure including punctuation and capitalization. Your advice is OK but it reads like a run-on mumble.