The module was perfectly fine Dave. The noise was hum, the signal path had badly tarnished contacts & really old RCA cables. I eliminated the rca connects, replaced with new cables directly soldered, and cleaned the headshell contacts, no more hum. The 510 is quiet with the module installed and works great again.
I remember seeing these units back in the day, but I never worked on one with that motor speed problem. Lot of people would damage the tonearm head shell on these units or screw the mechanics up not properly securing it for a move. I think these Dual units sound decent and do ok, but expect some above average noise from both the tonearm and mechanics in these particular style units, and don't stomp the floor.... LOL Good video! 🍻 Cheers! -Al
So many of those units back in the 80s 90s when I was in the business were tossed out. The sales guys that would write them up coming in would always tell customers that they were junk and they shouldn't put much money into them so they just tossed them out.
@@12voltvids Yeah we tossed more than a few of these also. Actually I have a lot of scrap parts for Dual turntables from that era. These were basically a step up from a ceramic cartridge BSR player or something, but not a big one. Decent players if you didn't have much money basically.
@@12voltvids Yeah I have actually restored and sold some 1214 and 1219 units that I found at thrift stores and yard sales. I haven't got quite $500 for any of the ones I've sold. Of course I never asked that much either...LOL Most of the time I would get the units broken for 5 or 20 bucks and fix them with my parts stash and sell them on E Bay or marketplace for 2 to 300 bucks. I kept really a lot of stuff or broke it down that customers didn't want to fix or want back where ever I worked before. I also buy broken units for parts a lot because stuff is just getting hard to get parts for. I especially buy a lot of broken open reel players, cassette decks and video players and break them down to sell parts or fix other units.
Lol Haven't thought about this in years. The Swingarm Bandit !!! That's what we used to call em. I had a couple of friends back in the day that had turntables that did this. We used to place bets on whether or not it was gonna start up at speed or not. Hence the "Swingarm Bandit" game. Guess we never new anything about any mods.... Kinda grew up in the sticks of South Alabama.
When I was in the business we chucked tons of those units that started at the wrong speed. The motors were not that expensive only about 60, but add 60 in labour and that was 120 plus tax and a new Sony direct drive was available for 149 and everyone knew the Japanese devices were so much better than the German stuff. ,😉
Ha ha. You carefully removed the stylus assembly before working on the TT but you put your fingers on the grooves. You just inspired me to listen to some analogue though. I still have quite a collection.
I clearly saw a cracked RIFA safety cap under that more central black cover under the chassis. Even if that capacitor is just an "across-the-line" or "across-the-switch" safety cap, it should be replaced. Once the capacitor cracks open moisture ingress can cause them to fail catastrophically. My old Dual CS506 was behaving oddly - after replacing the RIFA caps (and the toothed belt to the variable pulley which worked but was very stiff) everything started working properly. Of course my 506 had multiple caps as the motor was two phase which is why replacing the caps fixed my issue. Search for "rifa madness" and you'll find lots of documentation on how bad these "safety" caps are.
Hello Dave, I saw if I'm right at the switch board a RIFA capacitor with a slight crack, We call them over here a bomb, Just replace this one first for a WIMA capacitor 0.47Uf 400 volt or so, it will prevent more problems and mabey solve the issue.
Hello, thanks for posting your video on the Dual 510. I am the original owner of a Dual 510 and I need to replace the cartridge sled. When checking online, some sellers offer a TK-14 and others offer a TK-24. Some say that these two sleds are interchangeable. I wonder if that is correct or not. The original head shell has a contact strip that is straight across and my original sled has 4 contact pins that are also in a straight alignment, however the sleds that I am seeing online have 4 contact pins that are staggered, two high and two low. I can't imagine how these pins will make good contact with the contact strip in the head shell. Would you be able to guide me as to where I may purchase the correct sled for my Dual 510? I would very much appreciate any help on this as I am stuck. Thanks, Steve
Sorry don't know where to get any parts for them. 25 year ago i didn't know. We threw away hundreds of them due to worn stuerpimple. Noresco had the exclusive distributer for Canada and when they closed up shop we stopped repairing dual and just condemned them all.
Hi there, I just got a dual CS 503 and originally the platter wouldn't spin, but I followed your tutorial about cleaning the switch and that worked a treat. But when running, there is a burning smell. The motor does have some white hard residue on the outside so I assume it's that, but would you have an idea about what the small is?
I just happened to stumble across your channel, regarding your VCR And VCR repairs. My Grandparents and father passed away from Covid about a year ago, and finally had the courage to clean out their stuff. That's when i discovered their wedding on a VHS. The VHS barely shows the video and is pretty much pure static, with a mixture of high pitched voices (distorted audio probably from the wedding). Thought it was the plastic casing, so I swapped it with another VHS cassette. I just don't understand how this VCR / VHS Technology works at all. Is there anyway I can repair the VHS, or am I out of luck?
The snow is likely clogged head, if you've seen how Dave cleans those & it doesn't clear things up, this coupled with high-pitch may be a servo lock issue. TBH I'd recommend having the tape digitized (Dave does this also) in case the machine decides to eat it, considering it may be sentimental to you. Then once the footage is safe on a DVD or memory card, you can maybe play with the VCR under less risk & maybe get it going properly.
OK first was the tape recorded here or another country. There were 4 standards to VHS tape used around the world. NTSC for north america, and PAL, SECAM and MESECAM for otthe countries. If the tape is PAL or SECAM you need to send it to a place that does conversions (I do that) PAL and SECAM tapes ran at a slower speed, so when you try to play, you gets just noise and lines in the picture and the sound will be fast. If it is an NTSC tape, you may have dirty heads. Do other tapes play OK?
@@12voltvids Yes other tapes play perfectly, My parents were married overseas. My Grandparents were Ukrainian / Russian, but they had their Wedding in Ethiopia (Friend set it up for them as a surprise). I think the video might've been using PAL
I think it was about 60 bucks. The customer has it now and will contact the seller. If he doesn't ask for it to be returned I have already asked for it so I can open it up and do some forensics on it to see what happened.
It is governed by Mains frequency the problem is the Germans didn't design this one properly. It works great on 50 hertz but on 60 at some time starts, actually usually starts fast. Has something to do with the number of poles on the rotor. Remember this is a shaded pole motor sometimes called a squirrel cage. One of the German engineers I guess didn't read his slide rule properly when designing it. The sm-860 followed fairly quickly that solved this engineering boo boo. Problem is not everyone got their turntable upgraded. So for those looking to buy a dual better pull the unit out of the base and check what motors in it before handing over your cash.
I wouldn't get another board it is probably junk. What about you look for a dc to ac converter with variable trim frequency for accurate pitch control or perish the thought , build one yourself. Many ppl in the 70s did. That way you end up with something better than new that will please you. For source of information I suggest 70s Wireless World reprint. I was right in this respect about the original Williamson valve amp so there is no reason that I am not right about this also.
Of course the proper fix for this is to change the motor to an sm-860. The sm840 motors all had this problem. It was designed on a Friday at 4:30 in the afternoon in October fest. Engineers were in a rush to go drink beer.
Probably not caps. More likely a triac or bad solder in that circuit. I suspect it is just a time delay that gives the motor half wave rectified waveform to soft start the rotor and then after a few seconds a triac turns on to take the pulsed waveform out if circuit and give it full power. If course i an guessing as I have not opened the module to see what is in it.
