OMG thank you🎉.. Ironic that the only video I've watched that helped clarify some things instead of skipping steps came from someone that looks like my brother from another mother THANK YOU
I found this video helpful in suggesting feeler gauges for the z-axis offset. Since I am VERY new to 3d printing, I am still very frustrated at subjective terms like "just a little" or "light to medium friction", but it seems like there is no objective way to describe it. Also, it should be said that the Neptune 3 Pro does NOT have the knobs for adjusting the bed, in fact, according to the user manual, bed levelling by hand may not even be an option. If anyone has further guidance for getting excellent z-axis offset results (I'll order feeler gauges soon), or for manual bed levelling on a Pro model, please let me know. Thanks for the excellent video!
Thanks for watching. I agree with the subjectivity. It’s really user experience on what works best for your printer. I’m making a new video on how to use a bed leveling print after these steps to dial it in even better.
@@theguyofalltrades Thank you, I will look forward to the new video. As a newcomer, I would also enjoy a good description of some of the terminology used with 3d Printing as well as examples of common errors, bad results, and how to correct them.
I have the same issue. As a beginner it's hard to know whats just right and my Neptune 3 Pro hss no way to tram. I hope something can be retrofited because one of my corners if off by 0.7mm.
I agree with the overall steps in this video and I had switched to a metal feeler gauge as well to be more consistent as I found that an A4 paper thickness is anywhere from .05mm to .11mm depending on the source and even so I've had way to much trouble getting prints to stick to bed or layers to stick / smush correctly ... so Elegoo's Auto level is only of value if you can get the z offset right and this process above (by it's self) did not work for me. What I did was do the steps in this video and then print a adhesion square in each corner and middle of bed this allowed me to see that I needed to make additional adjustments to z off set until lines started sticking and no longer see gaps between lines .... after all that I kept retesting these prints until I could remove them from bed and not pull apart the printed squares, printing only one layer of the test square was enough to see if sticking well and layers smushed together if not adjust z off set and print again. Another thing to keep in mind is if you see wavey layer where parts are almost see through you are to close to bed so need to find a balance between your adjustments to Z. Just another newbie with my 2 cents.
@@theguyofalltradesYeah well it seemed to work much better, I got down to the 0.00-.003 on most of the bed, some still sitting around .5 but it's at the edge and I won't be using that anytime soon so, not my current issue. I was trying to do dog holes earlier thinking the fine setting would be fine but it started grouping? I don't know what else to call it, about 75% of the way through. It just bunched up a load of resin doing the infill so the z head kept bouncing up and down off of it and over it, I am guessing it was a speed thing cause going at .28 on the fast setting worked okay, but it still shows signs of where it was bunching up in a sort of slow spiral but mostly straight line up the edge ( I think where it starts the infill portion each slice). What is this error type called and any idea how to fix that but still do fine prints?
Before you start any of this, you should make sure the bed doesn't have any play. I had that problem and found out it was the rail wheels needed to be tightened.
I think a piece of paper is probably fine. We use it all the time in CNC. We sometimes have a thin piece of brass, but regular paper still seems to be okay. Great video though thanks.
If it's not a stupid question if you adjust all 6 wheels to the feelers gauge then adjust the z axis in the middle doesn't that mean all 6 wheels are now wrong ?
Nah the middle tends to be lower or higher than the outside. That’s why you use a .1 or .2mm feeler. It gives you a little wiggle room. Too close and you’ll notice your first layer will be squished and too far you’ll see separation between layer lines
@@theguyofalltrades You would do that before the manual level portion? Currently when I do the manual level I screw in the nob all the way and the nozzle is still too far away
I would get rid of the z offset and tighten the knobs to all the way to lower the build plate then home all axis. Then do manual level and adjust until paper just grabs nozzle. You may have to do manual level a couple times for it to be right if it’s way out of whack.
I have the same printer and am having problems. A couple of the six adjustment knobs are somewhat loose. Can't seem to figure how to adjust. I did contact Elegoo and hopefully they will help. But maybe you have a suggestion. Thanks.
I would tighten them all the way down then reset your z offset to zero. Home the printer all axis and proceed to do the manual bed leveling then the auto. It took me about 3 tries when I first got it out of the box. What are you using for a feeler between the nozzle and build plate?
@@theguyofalltrades I ended up drilling the threads out of the carriage so the bolts would go through w/o threading, then added silicone bushings and adjusters from creality. Works much better.
After doing this do you have to subtract the size of the feeler gauge from the original z-offset you input to calculate the .1mm that was used to level? Im just having a hell of a time getting my bed leveled and ive done every tool imaginable and areas still dont come out right.
Make sure you clean the build plate with isopropyl alcohol. Did you set the z offset again after manually tramming the bed and auto bed leveling? I adjust it before and after
Hello. when I click on level, it moves back and forward, and then itgoes down (eje y) and when It touch the plate, it trys to continue going down and start to sound a bad noise... what could i do
Start from scratch. Make sure z offset is zero and tighten all the adjusters. Then go through the steps again. It may take a couple tries to get it perfect
Is the build plate on? The printer uses the metal build plate to recognize the bed. If it's not on, it'll keep going down and damage your bed and the nozzle..
What do all the values for all the points mean? Should I be aiming to get the same value on all those points to get a perfectly level bed? Or are they there just to show me if there is some kind of abnormality somewhere on the bed?
It’s the offset values it needs to be level at each of those points. It offsets the z axis in those areas while printing the first layer so that it’s perfectly even.
It definitely helps but doesn’t compensate for extremely unleveled beds. Also I find that I still have issues if I’m not manually adjusted perfectly using s bed leveling print.
At time 1:54 you say "I'm using a point one oh two" feeler gauge. That would be 0.102mm then, since you mention immediately afterwards that people can go up to 0.2mm. Do they even make them to 3 decimal places of millimetres? My Neptune3 Pro doesn't have any manual adjusters, they must have binned that idea which I'm really very glad about, hahahah! But a good idea to consider using a feeler, especially as Elegoo don't specify what weight of A4 paper to use - cheapo 70gsm paper is only 0.09mm while 80gsm is 0.1mm, 90gsm is 0.112mm, and my current stock paper is 120gsm which is a whopping 0.135mm so "a piece of paper" is a hopelessly inaccurate specification for Z offset and as you mention it's quite easy to distort a piece of paper between two bits of metal while a feeler is more robust . (edited to correct my 70gsm which is 0.09 not 0.9, hehe)
I honestly think I had the .102” feeler by mistake. The biggest takeaway is to be consistent with the paper or feeler gauge. .1mm is the ideal spacing though from what I’ve used and have seen from others. I agree on the paper being different sizes because I’ve definitely measured different sizes. Also most of the newer printers as long as they have a smaller bed and ones that are not bed slingers like the Neptune pro or Enders won’t have adjusters.
@@theguyofalltrades That would be a biiiiiiiig feeler though, hehehe, 0.1" is 2.5mm. Paper will be different thicknesses cos the gsm weight is grammes per square metre, so assuming it's the same density of paper in the same mill making their different grades then the only way to make a higher gsm piece of paper is to make it thicker 😁
Thank you for your response. @@theguyofalltrades I think I found my issue! The sensor was cocked a little to the side and not reading straight down. I had it slightly crooked when I tightened the fastener and it had jumped over its alignment pin. At least I hope that was it. I changed that and added M420S1 to my start up gcode to apply the mesh to the print and I think it’s working ok now.
I have a Neptune 3 Pro and recently modified it so it now has manual knob and silicon spacers. Unfortunately I've been having trouble leveling it now and every time I auto level it is different every time even if I don't adjust anything. Do you have any advice on what I should do?
@@theguyofalltrades I’ve done everything. Had to print 6 of the same model. Did 4 all great and since then haven’t been able to get it to print and stick to the bed. I’ve done everything changed nozzles. Extruder stripped the bed changed weekend changed springs nothing
I recently swapped out to a copper heat block and now it sits lower than the stock printer and now it bottoms out when trying to return to zero 😫 What can I do to level the bed now?
@@theguyofalltrades the problem was the tips I had ordered were way too long and I installed a short one that came with my printer and now it’s working good again 🙏
Hey, i got Elegoo Neptune 3 pro yesterday. I leveled it at around 1.20 mm with piece of paper, but today it was already not right and i had to lower it to 0.80. Why this happened?
@@theguyofalltrades Nozzle and bed according to instruction using A4 piece of paper. Now i see it printing weirder on one side than other, should i try tightening screws at this point?
@@theguyofalltrades I tightened bolts a bit and set it to 1.10, now it seems better. Whats the reason for bed to become little tilted? I have read something about plastic spacers and that they melt, are those the cause?
Loose wheels maybe? The pro doesn’t have the adjusters like on the plus correct? I know on the Enders and even the plus and max you can get silicone spacers which have better heat resistance
@@theguyofalltrades You can tighten wheels on 1 side, i did that, bed is even less wobbly now. Left side is now seems more squished when printing, but not critically, looks alright. I suppose minimal flaws are acceptable in printing (i hope atleast) I think pro also has spacers available, i should check them out i guessm
I leveled the bed once on my Neptune 3 Pro, a few times on my Neptune 3 Plus, and repeatedly on my Neptune 3 Max, which inexplicably needs it frequently. Another annoyance is that none of my Neptune 3 printers remember the Z-offset unless that is performed immediately after bed leveling; at any other time, changes are lost the next time the printer is restarted. I can work around this by tweaking the Z-offset in Simplify3D, but engineers thinking logically could enable that in Elegoo printers, as other manufacturers have done. Another persistent problem on the Neptune 3 Max is that I must mash the nozzle into the bed (roughly 0.2 mm lower than it should be) before manually adjusting the six knobs; if I don’t, the nozzle is considerably too high at each of the six points. I can ultimately obtain very good leveling and Z-offset but the procedure is noticeably more exasperating than it is on any of my other printers. My Anycubic printers (Kobra Max and Kobra) are better than my other eight printers in terms of remembering bed leveling and Z-offset as well as having a logical, intuitively obvious menu structure. The award for most convoluted, utterly illogical menu structure goes to Creality for what they did on my CR-M4 and Ender 3 S1 Plus, both of which seem hell-bent on destroying print beds; each one has done that repeatedly, most recently with the CR-M4 ruining an expensive 470x470 mm PEI sheet by attempting to print a few millimeters below the bed after months of printing - some only hours before - with the bed correctly leveled and Z-offset set A-OK. After these and other problems, the chance I will ever buy another Creality is ZERO. Elegoo? Probably, but with some trepidation.
I find it pretty easy to level it honestly compared to an ender. I don’t feel like the mesh level really doesn’t do anything. I get super consistent prints and level once every few months.
What do you mean The Neptunes forget previous measurements after being restarted!? Are you telling me all the work that I just had to follow on this video is going to be made completely worthless every time I turn it off?!
@@JackEverton101: On my three Neptune 3 printers, only the Z-offset is lost when the printer is restarted UNLESS that is performed immediately after bed leveling. Putting their other flaws into perspective relative to my other printers, they are nevertheless my favorite and the ones I prefer when I need reliable prints. My two Bambu Lab printers have exceptional print quality but are very unreliable, often failing to complete prints without repeated manual intervention.
@@kevinpezzi6777 Thanks for the warning, I’ll have to keep an eye on it. I just got the Neptune 3 Max after doing some research, my last three printer was the Ender3 and after my second print with the Neptune it ended in a disastrous clog. I then had to battle the auto bed leveling system so right now I’m kind of nervous and on top of which I’m having some bad adhesion problems to the bed itself. So I’m just coming in the Internet looking for tips and tricks to get this behemoth under control
All printers need firmware updates. Unfortunately Elegoo isn’t super user friendly. Bambu is the way to go. I’ve bought two x1c and an a1 combo since this video and barely use the Elegoo any longer. Doesn’t even compare to Bambu
@@theguyofalltrades well I didn't k ow I need a. College education in firmware for this I've run three other ones with no upgrade fuck elegoo thier shit I'd trash glad it worked foru
Hello! Could really use your help. Went through your process on leveling the bed of my brand new Neptune 3 MAX. Problem is that when printing large model the print line is smeared in the upper left hand corner of the build plate. Seems to thin as well. It printed out the buddha model no problem , but of course that is pretty small. Please help!
