Dear Reader, I can see a bright future for Mr. CT, now his skills have grown in all directions. If he want's to, he can become a local garage for all classic VW cars (or German cars), and offer all customers a small discount if they agree to let him make video's about the proces. It would give him an enormous variety of classic cars to tinker with (as much simultaneously as can be managed), and it would give him a source for many new video's, and a road of discoveries. Why? Because he's good at tinkering and at making video's. Well done, Sir. With Kind Regards, Michel F. van den Brun Dutch pedestrian
You should drive it back to Georgia and show the family who sold it to you and helped you load it up. I remember his cool signs in storage containers 😊
This is an awesome rebuild. I have had five Beetles in the last 40 years, ranging from a 1968 through to a 1972 and I wish I had an engine like this in just one of them. I rebuilt the ‘68, but back in the late 80’s these bolt on parts weren’t available. Sounds so good too! Well done…I miss my Beetles really badly now 😥
Hands up all those who’d like to see this brand new engine, transmission and an effectively a new chassis united with a fully restored and beautifully painted body and interior?
Mate, I've just discovered your site yesterday watching your first drive on the street...Loved that, but when those bolts finally slotted into place, mate I was so damn excited for you 👍🇦🇺👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍. Now I have to start at the beginning and watch from day 1 Legend Mate ..Brilliant videos are now my "Go to " for Beetle Resto ,👍
Wow that engine looks great but the exhaust is next level. Man I learned to drive on an early 70’s super beetle. If it had looked like this one I would have more kids.
what I used to do when installing the throw out bearing was to take a channel lock pliers and put the clip against the bottom right (starter side) arm and using the water pump plier grab the top of the clip and have that in the jaws closest to the interlocking jaw and the tip of the pliers down by the bottom of the arm where the opened end of the clip is visible and rotate the handle of the pliers clockwise and the clip will roll over the bottom end of the support arm. Works great and only one person. Learned this from a German mechanic who worked back in Germany in the factory. One other thing. I used to put some grease on the end of the trans input shaft to help the clutch friction plate mate more easily.
Excellent build….. years ago someone mentioned to me always use German made vw gas hose , nothing else. As you know vw gas leaks are usually not very forgiving. Best of luck, here forward, Darin is a master. Can’t wait for the video of complete bug transformation.
I didn't see the deflecting plates on this build. I hope he realizes they are not there. Or he will have over heating problems. Every piece of sheet metal must be there.
Hello, Mr. CT. This is where things get serious 😁and there is absolutely no way back!! The thing looks AWESOME,😮 with the enginge pimped up to the level.. I'm impressed of your build so far, the body still needs a lot of work, but this is a major waypoint to success. If you can drive it to finish, it will be a pretty valuable mean machine. You also learned a lot and put your skills to practice, anyway dont' get just carried away and remember rusty, the dragon and others are waitihg for you. After the first success experience, it will be easier down the road. Be proud of your work, cheers and keep going! 👍
Wow that's awesome. That motor looks and sounds amazing... Love the color keep up the great work 👍 can't wait to see you ripping up the road . Have a great rest of your weekend. Thanks for sharing...
For those younger, less experienced mechanics, the alignment tool has nothing to do with the PRESSURE PLATE, the only thing the alignment tool aligns is the friction disk so the transmission will be easier to install
The torque wrench should click while the bolt is in motion. If it clicks immediately you don't really know the torque of that bolt, it may be looser or tighter than spec. Just a tip for anyone watching this video. Nice build! 👍
@ DAW 75 You are definitely correct about the bolt possibly being over tight, but not loose, the wrench would obviously torque it up to spec if it was still loose.
@@daw7563 I don't have look anything up, I've worked my entire working life with bolts and tension wrenches, over fifty years and what you are saying is nonsense.
This is a good moment, CT Garage is looking good. You may have to paint this one because of everything else being painted and nice, either way good job.
Thanks Richard! Yes, it's nice being back in the garage for a few days. Brings back good memories! Not painting this one...not yet anyways! =0 Thank you! =)
@@CTmoog Have you got the correct dimension fuel line or is it too big? Afaik the clamp keeps the line from slipping off over the bump on the hose connection but should not really compress the line much to provide a seal. Or maybe you have a pump for use with fuel injection and it has too much pressure for the hose clamp connections.
This is magnificent. To drop the body on the chassis you will need to take the carbs and manifolds out but you’re getting there. Don’t forget to install the ground strap at the nose of the transaxle as well as the rubber snubbers on the front beam and the plastic bushing in the chassis for the shift rod. Now is the perfect time without the body on. We’re getting there!!! 😉💪👏
Now you have taken RU-vid videos of VW work to a new level of excellence and a story that is singular, maybe not finished but you have hit it out if the ball park! My vote is to finish out the body with original NEW paint, in fact body and interior I think should be like new car factory condition. Thanks for super videos and it’s not only content but also your easy friendly personality.
Time to rig up the controls and drive the chassis? Ha, you are going to! Awesome! Love the custom tins! The stud for the starter doesn't pass through the engine case at all, so I wouldn't say it counts.
I would like to see some progress on the old Bronco and the dragon, if they’re still in the works. I don’t blame you for doing this old bug, it will be worth some serious coin.
Desde el comienzo de este proyecto que te seguimos con mi hijo de 12 años que tiene un pequeño retraso madurativo y estamos tan emocionados como vos por este paso..saludos cordiales desde Chaco al norte de Argentina. esperamos con ansias el resto del montaje. Felicitaciones
Hi CT, my friend just now one great show of the newly Installed Engine with great color and nice sound, you did accomplices a big piece of work here for now, and waiting for installing the body on the chassis again and the first drive to keep up the good work well-done buddy🙏🏻👍🏻. Ivè also to mention you wearing a pair of nice new Boots.cq shoes🇺🇸👍🏻☮, 🇳🇴🇳🇱greetings Hubertus
You need to check with your engine builder about the tins to go under the engine to blow the cooling air out the back, without the tins the engine could overheat being you live in the south. You will also need to make a tin to take the place of the heat exchanger for deflecting the air out the back. The engines were designed to have the tins sending the air out the rear or the hot air could get sucked into the cooling fan decreasing the cooling affect causing it to overheat which could damage your engine. Turn your battery around or when you get the body mounted back on it could short out on the front of the back seat. Bugs always had the battery terminals facing the rear of the car.
I’d still say you have the perfect opportunity to finish restoring the metal work on the body and repaint the shell so it’s a prefect car again It would be far nicer to see it completely restored, as nice as patina cars can be, i think yours has needed too much work now to waste leaving it all rusty again Just my 2 cents anyway 👍🏻
Hey Maverick, the 65 beetle body has too many rust holes on all the panels. The hood, deck lid, front and rear fenders everything would have to be replaced. It does not make $$$ sense to restore it like that. They are far too many other body's out there with less rust that would be good to completely restore and paint. We will have a project like that coming soon! =)
Where the fuel lines and/or any electrical, cables pass through holes in tinware ensure rubber grommets or similar are in place to prevent sharp edges doing damage. I speak from somewhat expensive experience. So far looks fantastic.
If the bolts are too short you need to get the correct size because you wil full the bellhousing threads out For any application the bolt length has to be correct
Hey CT, long time. But I've been lurking around. It's great to see the progress that you're making on the 65. We can see your excitement In getting it done. A lot of hard work is paying off. Keep it up. I want a ride when It's done. I'm watching brother.
Congratulations. Looking great. I was hoping to be at the running stage. Got mine to fire but need to push outside as I put oil down cylinders, and not had chance with uk rain all the time. Can't wait to hear it run.
