Wealth of information. I could spend hours with you, and love every minute of it. Thank you for taking the time doing these video's. Very much appreciated.
Very informative some great little tips that I'm sure I will be using in a lot of situations in the future I also radiused my flat anvils your right they work way better
I wish I understood more of your methods, you are obviously very experienced. There is a great guy in the US, he makes it all sound a lot easier, he uses this really great paper flexible shape pattern that helps you read where the shape is, his name is Ray, he does some good stuff.
Understanding how metal reacts is a big part of learning the trade, 50 Years ago I learned the traditional English and Italian ways in Italy and here in Australia , Wray developed is own method using the flexible paper pattern method , I personally DO NOT use that method and never will..... but each tradesman has his own ways to to a job, it's up to the individual to learn which method to use, you can try Wray '' method'' or any other for that matter and decided which is quicker and better for you.
Thanks for the great info peter. If possible could you do a tutorial on making the inner structure for a hood/bonnet with either sheet metal or tubing like the italians. Have searched long and hard but seems to be an area with not much info available. Thank You
ottimo ottimo lavoro, grande padronanza nell'uso degli attrezzi, ma devo dire di aver visto grandi maestri senza tanti attrezzi, solo martello e sincero, per evidenziare linee, realizzare pezzi unici, complimenti maestro peter
Peter, great videos....What specific blocking hammer(s) would you recommend i.e. MFGR, Model, head diameter etc. Do you use sand or shoot in your bag. Thanks again for your videos, they are very informative. Bruce
There are 4 types of blocking hammers, but it depends which applications you need, in order to use the right one . All my sand bags a filled with (washed river sand)
Hi Peter , i've been following your channel, you are truly a master, i have a question , what brand and type are those blocking hammers ?? Or where i can get them i will appreciate your info thanks
Hi Joe I do not know of any books on how to use anvils, but there are a few dvds out there including the handbuilt ones , also search on you tube for video's clips on the subject. Try to learn using full radius anvils , DO NOT .. learn using anvils with flats on them .
Maestro he notado en sus videos que usted fuma y para ese malestar de su respiración es bueno el sumo de gengibre en ayunas 1 cucharadita diaria y tendrás sus pulmones como bebe cuidase maestro. Para que dé más clases gracias
Peter did this go hollow (stress?)when you started blocking (to turn the edge) because you didn’t have enough shape in this sample piece to start with?
With that amount of stretching a hollow is always going to be there, whether one pre stretch or not, it's up to the operator to know how much to wheel the center prior of the stretching , or take care of the hollow as soon as it appears and keep everything equal at all time , that is why the bottom edge was going under the minute I start stretching ,then it was nearly gone once I start wheeling the center again . The (stress) was coursed by the blocking, which also needs to be carefully looked at and not be left too late, in another words keep the whole panel close to what it suppose to look like at all time prior to do any further work on it. The same thing will happens if just wheel heavily in to a panel when shaping with the wheel only. Further more that particular shape easy to make , but the blending and the flowing with the next panel is harder to get right. IF you notice the front of the panel is very bulbous and curved in all directions at the top front ( at the grille opening ), but it flattens considerably as it goes towards the bottom.
Peter, I understand clearly what your saying 👍I'm slowly starting to understand now how your moving the metal in stages with your wheeling & blocking hammer , various anvils and opening it up especially on these bulbous shapes is becoming clearer .Looking forward to the next one. Thanks
Peter when you are beating on the stump at 16:30 are you shrinking? Is that why the rear edge starts to become less loose? This is @#$& complicated. It looks simple at first glance but it sure isn’t. And these are all lower anvils without flats right?
Rv4 the edge getting loose is coursed by the hollow in the middle of the sheet, and that, is coursed by the blocking on the top , knowing that that was going to happen, I pre wheeled the middle just to help the situation. The video shows that particular panel and others similar panels approach ....... one need to keep the whole panel under control before is too late, if you heavily wheel a panel in the same matter ( no blocking ) the same will happens.
