Ep. 7 - 70 Chevelle Restoration- Rust repair 

I am in the process of restoring a 4 door 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass! Can't find many videos about them. 4 doors are underated!

@@13eldrjosh37 I'm working on custom metal work for the lower corners of the rear windows. Is yours rusted out there too?

@@jmack428 If you mean right behind the rear windows on that panel that connects to the roof, then yes. It was really rotted there. I still need to do some finishing work on that area.

Working on it! My other job keeps getting in the way.

There is a place for water to drain out at the bottom of the cowl, and some of that water can get into the rockers however there are drain holes in the rockers if water reaches that far. The main reason the cowl rusts is because of the dirt, leaves and debris that collects there and holds the moisture.

Thank you for the reply. Mine are definitely full of leaves and crud which can be seen from the inside cowl vents. I will clean them out and assess the rust once it warms up a bit. Thanks again!

My only advice would be drill out as many spot welds as you can. The air chisel works great for separating the panels after drilling. The air chisel can also tear things up. Also good prep before spot welding everything back together. Clean metal and I usually use a weld through primer on all bare metal that gets spot welded together. I always take some before pics if there are any reassembly questions.

Thats an awesome car. Don't worry about messing it up, I learned from my projects that after bodywork and block sanding if it doesn't look good. You can always if needed, add a bit more body filler and sand/prime/blocksand all over again to make it perfect. good luck with your project.

@@soolegarage Thanks, your videos made me want to try it myself even more and save money while doing it. At what point do you make the decision to just purchase a new panel vs patching?

@@mstang61 repairing small areas of rust I always recommend but when a panel looks like Swiss cheese replace it. Or if there is a panel that has been damaged in an accident and you are unable to get it straight which will require a lot of body filler, replace it.

www.autometaldirect.com/body-components-cowl-section-c-23_102.html?pager=2

You will love the versatility of the 211, I became a better welder with the 211. I do have a Hobart handler 140 and used it for a long time but didn't have the ability to weld 1/4 inch or frame material. With the 211 auto set you can dial in your thickness and always get a good weld.

Also wanted to say that I am impressed with your chevelle project where did you find it?

@@soolegarage I have a Holbart 140, will that be good enough for body work? If needed I'll borrow my friends Miller for frame work.

@@mstang61 Yes Hobart 140 will be excellent for welding body panels. I own the same welder.

I would always recommend welding in new metal where there is rust that has eaten through. After wedding in new metal I will usually add a thin coat of fiberglass filler over the ground off welds. That allows me to sand and get a good finish before priming.

@@soolegarage i meant 'all metal', the metallic version of bondo. 2 part mixes like bondo but magnet sticks to it.

@@andrewturner1714 ooops, sorry. I have heard good things about All Metal but have never used it?