Thanks for the Video tutorial. Very helpful. I found I had to loosen the indicator first and strap towards the saddle with electrical tape, so as not to get in the way of the drill. Also, the lower pipe worked out a bit harder than the top pipe for me. I had to step up to an 8 mm Cobalt drill bit. Maybe stronger weld? Was a bit stubborn!! I used a slide hammer tool, rather than your gate hanger method to knock out the baffle.
Cool. Glad it was useful, nice additional advice given. I was pretty nervous not to slip with the drill too. It was stubborn for me also , I thought it was my lack of experience.. cheers rich
Hi, did not take audio before removal, i can take a quick clip including sound with db killer removed. It not much louder. A bit deep note. I have posted a video taupo to napier on this bike if that helps. I plan to put headers to remove the flapper valve and the cat next.
Hi thanks I would not like comment, in fear of poor advice. The guy on you tube with ftr1200 did an exhaust mod which i found useful background information that help me arrive at attempting the db removal. He is american had a bike race van all set up, id say he is a know racer in motor cross or similar. I can't remember his name sorry. But cans maybe simular to yours?
Hi, yes I was on the verge of giving up but eventually with great care not to slip the drill started to bite into the exhaust. I did a very gentle starter with a fine center punch and then a 3mm bit until I broke that. In the end medium pressure and patience worked for me. After the 1st 2 holes I knew what to expect.. good tip on removing the indicator for one of the holes. My drill is narrow so i got away with a bit of flexing back the indicator and protective tape. Good luck... at least its covered by the end cap if you do slip. Just not into the tyre!
Use titanium bits designed for metal and you will have no problems. Standard bits that take a while generate so much heat that the two pieces become welded together and impossible to remove even with sufficient size hole. I speak from experience
thanks for the video!! unfortunately my english isnt that good, i didnt understand why you made these 3 holes... are they needed to pull out the db killers?
Hi. It depends on euro 3 or 4 design differences. But on the euro4 exhaust like mine, it has spot welds that need to be released by drilling out a hole a little larger than the weld. I Hope that helps.
Hey I just stumbled on a notice and re read your question...... I suppose if you wanted to re insert (put back) the db killers they may hold without any further fixing , personally I wouldnt risk it. If for example you drill out an M8 8mm hole you could use a M8 round head bold and nut with thread lock or spring washer to stop vibrations loosening the fasteners, you could used a split pin just one the hole but you may experience a chatter or rattle from the baffle on the can.... just my thoughts. I can't imagine ever putting my db killers back in ... it just sounds better to my ears. And even people following have said how nice it sounds.
@@fabiod87 The baffles can just be hammered back in with a rubber mallet. They fit crazy tight and don’t vibrate after reinserted. No weld or bolt need. Just rotate them so the holes don’t line up and pass inspection without any problem. Sound without baffles is amazing
Hi, yes more throaty , not excessively loud, less of a "leaf blower" hum from the motor. The flapper valve in exhaust is my next job supposed to give a deeper note. The perforated baffle is still visible within the cans just the short section is the decibel killer. Personally I prefer sound as removed, not too intrusive especially as I wear ear plugs for wind noise anyway.
