A little baking soda and water after the vinegar stops the reaction, then a thin coat of oil/wax keeps it from rusting up again. As far as my understanding goes - the vinegar converts the red iron oxide fe3 to black iron oxide fe2. So technically it's still there it's just black now. When it's exposed to air it reoxidizes slowly back to Fe3. Wire brushing will also remove this rust, without the need for the chemical bath. So I recommend using the vinegar or evaporust on parts that need to stay the same size (old hand saw blades), on tools that are so far gone that you need to take some rust off just to get started, or tools that are too delicate to consider wire brushing. Otherwise the wire wheel on a grinder or in a drill does wonders with less mess.
Hay Arco, I really like Evaporust. I used it on a lot of my tools I restore. The problem with the white vinegar is if you happen to forget a tool in it, it will resolve it. I did that last year and completely ruined a old set of feeler gauges. Enjoyed the the review!
I'm glad you had success with the Evapo-Rust! I've also used vinegar and it does work and it is much cheaper, but where Evapo-Rust really does well for me is on areas I can't reach with the wire wheel. Like inside the hollow riveted handles on vise-grip pliers or a vise casting. I found that the vinegar soaked parts will flash rust quickly after rinsing in water. Look out ! You're gonna start dunkin' everything you own in Evapo-Rust!
the main advantage with vinegar is that its cheap and ready, you can dissolve some paint in it. if you have a file that has paint, it can soften it, and sharpen the file , then i take that to the sandblaster for a full cleaning. but you can only use vinegar like 2-3 times before its spent. and its hard to remove. if you do it outside, you don't stink things up. but if you pour it on the lawn, its dead down to the dirt. might be a good way to get rid of tree stumps actually. need to try this stuff out because they say it is reusable. though i'm not sure i would put it into the bucket like that, seems like a good way to contaminate it all.
Awesome video guy and thank you for making it. You sure have a dream shop and tools. Need to find a guy like you here close to my home in Yelm Wa. My pro street car needs a few things done.
I wish I'd have known about that stuff last year when my boy and I were working on cleaning up an old motorcycle gas tank. I'll definitely be ordering some of that👍 great video👍
Ordered some Evapo-rust , for a rinse of my 1998 Harley Dynaglide fuel tank . It has a little rust beginning so I hope a over nite or 2 day rinse will clean it out as well as your test Arco !
Works great, it’s reusable and did my 97 Heritage tanks with it. Removed all the rust. Liner peel is a different story lol. Tried vinegar, let the tanks sit for 6 days but I think the rust was a little too much for it.
the only problem I see with a few youtube videos of vinegar vs evaporust is no one lets the product sit for several days which vinegar really need to produce far better results
If you want to experiment more, you could try phosphoric acid. Works quicker but leaves a sticky coating which you can remove with mineral spirits. I coated the inside of my motorcycle tank with it. Works great. Muriatic acid is another but even stronger. It will clean off the rust in minutes and leave the part looking like sparking new raw steel. The down side is that it will flash rust very quickly.
Ill be ordering some Evaporust gel. I!m working on a 79 firebird trunk floor re and re, and need to clean up the metal where I cant get to with the sand blaster. hopefully the Evap. Gel will do the trick.
I would have degreased the blocks and put them in I've used evaporust to remove rust on transmission output shaft came out excellent....and on a complete Trac lok posi with excellent results.... Evaporust works well but I find the cost to be to high for large volumes of rusty parts it does stop working after awhile. Have used washing soda and electrolysis and that works but you have wash the parts after with water.... Both processes you should treat the parts against rusting later. Evaporust works on parts you want to save.
You should try citric acid. Put 2-3 table spoon to a quart of boiling water, place the rusty stuff in it and watch it clean up in minutes at the front of your eyes. Fun fact, the Mercedes-Benz coolant system cleaner is mostly citric acid.
evapo rust is many times more expensive than vinegar, plus you only submerged 80% of the metal block in vinegar exposing the 20% unsubmerged. i will always go with the vinegar since its cheap, easy to find and children won't die even they drink it by accident
Tip..I'm old enough to wear gloves using wire wheel. Have got too many slivers over the years...lol. I've used that rust remover on old shifters and door parts and it works awesome..comes out just like new. Great video..I'm going to try white vinegar on some parts and see how it does for me. I missed your email..can you send it please. Thanks.
I've been wanting to try evaporust for a long while. I have some ax heads I'm restoring I'd like a better clean on. Can't afford the evaporust rust right now so unfortunately it's the nasty vinegar for now.
@OutlawEdge For sure it gets a cleaner result. But most of the work has already been done by the brush, and most folks are looking for this as an alternative to wire brush - especially for finished surfaces where a steel brush leaves marks and a brass brush disintegrates before its removed much rust (and leaving more tarnish). At first I thought you were going to wire brush half of it and leave the other half.
I got most the rust off so it won’t contaminate the rust remover. It really stays strong if u keep the chemical clean. If not it gets bogged down and wont work as fast and effective. Thanks for watching
@@OutlawEdge There are several different chemical ways to remove rust. I've tried most for my vintage car stuff I think! Evaporust is not an acid, it works by what's called chelation. Vinegar is an acid so it will attack the metal as well as the rust if you leave it in there long enough. Vinegar (acetic acid) is fairly weak. Citric acid, Hydrochloric acid (muriatic), sulphuric acid, oxalic acid and so on will all remove rust but also affect the metal as well as the rust if left long enough. Phosphoric acid works well too and is what is used in some etch priming paints to key the metal surface. It is also the stuff in Coca Cola which is why that works (poorly) for removing rust too. The POR 15 metal prep solution contains phosphoric acid (as well as other things) I believe. Acids will affect more than steel so aluminium or brass/bronze components will dissolve in them too. Anything pot metal or Zamack like carb bodies will be destroyed in anything acidic as the acids will attach the zinc very quickly. Chelation reactions like Evaporust will only attack the rust. Evaporust also make a gel (with a really weird smell) that is a sticky, snot like goop that works well on parts you can't soak in the stuff. You can paint that on. The other popular chelation reaction is molasses (from an animal feed store) and water mix (about 1 part molasses to 9 parts water but it's not critical). This is very cheap, easy to set up a huge tank of the stuff and works well but is very slow. But it is safe to leave parts in it for months. I have had good results with that soaking blocks and rear axles and torque tubes. Apparently it makes good fertilizer for the garden when you're done with it too. Smells bad though! The other rust removal technique you might want to look at is electrolysis or electrolytic rust removal. As someone else mentioned for all these rust removal techniques it is important for the part to be degreased first so whatever chemical you are using can reach the metal. One thing to be aware of is what's called hydrogen embrittlement if you are using acid or electrolysis to remove rust. This can affect hardened steels so I wouldn't use those to try to clean rust off things like springs. It's hard to know in a home garage how much of an effect this really has though.
No, Evaporust is not acid at all. It has a neutral PH and won't even hurt you if it gets into your eyes. Doesn't mean you should put it in your eyes, but incase if it splashed :)